I was in Italy Feb 1-27, starting Venice, then Florence, Perugia,
Orvieto and Rome.

Venice: VERY cold (near freezing) and very foggy..could hardly see
across the grand canal..snowed the day after I left. I stayed at the
Don Orione Artigianelli convent, great location at Zattere, just
minutes from the Accademia Bridge. Very modern, spotless rooms, nice
bathrooms, friendly staff, 1am curfew. They take familes and singles,
no credit cards. I paid 67euro/night (4 nights), self-serve breakfast
included. The Accademia vaporetto stop is being repaired, and is
temporarily at San Vio, just a little further down the canal. I left
just a day or two before the official start of Carnival, and they were
putting up stands and booths and all sort of equipment in the various
piazzas. I spent my days exploring the nooks and crannies of San
Polo, Cannareggio, the old Jewish Quarter, Dorsoduro, and the back
side of San Marco (going toward the Arsenale), etc., etc.

Florence: some light drizzle, but a few sunny days...took a 1 day
cooking class (divinacucina.com); great fun, started with a grand tour
of the central market; because I was with Judy (the instructor)
everyone wanted to give me free samples of food, had a tasting of
balsamic vinegars, one was 50 years old. I decided what i wanted to
make, she bought the ingredients, we hit the bread store, the wine
shop, cooked and ate and drank. Was there 6 days (had seen all the
museums on previous stops), so walked and walked, explored all the
neighborhoods. Went to the Sunday flea market at San Spirito. So
much to see I never did manage any daytrips out of the city. Stayed
at the Ferretti, kind of funky 2 star, but really nice and helpful
staff. Self-serve breakfast. Great location near the Duomo and SM
Novella.

Perugia: weather much like Florence, Hotel Fortuna very nice place,
good location just off Piazza d'Italia. Nice breakfast included...ham
and cheese and hard boiled eggs, yogurt in addition to the regular
bread/rolls. Perugia was my base to explore Assisi and Gubbio as well
(by local bus). Ristorante Altromonde serves veal stuffed with cheese
and grilled which is paradise.

Assisi & Gubbio: beautiful, beautiful, beautiful

Orvieto: cold and rainy. took shelter in the Duomo and a ton of
museums. Finally (really, to preserve my health), forced to take
cover in a ceramics store which ultimately did some serious damage to
my credit card balance. Duomo partly under scaffolding. Many
restaurants not open in the evenings (too early in the year?). Hotel
Corso...nice room, but one of those showers above the toilet. Was
going to try the convent there, but they had a 10pm curfew, and
restaurants opened late for dinner. Had stayed at the Corso several
years ago so knew what to expect.

Rome: warm, some light rain, one day of heavier rain....many more
tourists than I had seen thus far. The Borghese is still grand (oh,
those Bernini sculptures!), walking from there to the top of the
Spanish Steps through the grounds is a pleasant way to spend some
time. Went to the Sunday flea market at Trastavere, great fun, spent
the entire morning there. Then walked to the Mouth of Truth, then
back along the Circus Maximus. Lots of guys running around trying to
sell you umbrellas...can't walk 10 feet without another one in your
face. Had the BEST pizza at Zio Ciro, facing the front of the
Pantheon. Again, walked virtually everywhere.

Trains ran on time, busses too; hotels were 2-3 star level, modest but
clean and fine, not too expensive. I traveled alone (I turned 56 in
Rome), all public transport, never felt unsafe or threatened. Of
course, I use a money belt and an inside pocket, no wallet or
purse...(I travel pretty light...when I checked in at Seattle my
carry-on bag - with the clothes in it - weighed 12 pounds. I had a
small daypack which weighed another 3-4 [film, camera, journal, etc.])
The Leonardo Express from Termini to Fiumicino was handy, quick and
only 9.5 euro.

People were very friendly. Internet cafes are everywhere. I walked
on average 10-12 miles/day (took my pedometer.) Climbed enough stairs
and hills to age my knees 10 times over. (And despite it all, came
home weighing EXACTLY the same as the day I left! Arrrrrgh!) The
wine and food are not too expensive, but the dollar stinks against the
Euro..whatever the Euro price just add a third..the rate averaged
$1.28+ to the euro...but I have had enough pizza for awhile, and pasta
too...I managed 36 flavors of gelato...would have done more but hardly
ate any in Venice...too darn cold, and fewer gelaterias open in
winter, apparently... attended a free concert in the Jesuit Church in
Rome one Sunday evening which was really neat...Shipped home some
souvenirs, maps, books, etc. via Mailboxes Etc. (they are everywhere
too). Much easier than carrying that stuff around. ATMs
abound...used my ATM card linked to my checking account (credit
union), got favorable exchange rate, no surcharges or additional fees.
There seem to be more that use Cirrus than Plus, but both can be
found. Used credit cards for the hotels and a few pieces of jewelry
(oh, and those ceramic pieces I bought and had shipped), but cash for
all my meals...just easier.

Note on fashion trends for the ladies (and the "bent" guys I guess
too): Fur coats were everywhere, even on nice days; some days I'm out
in a sweater and people are in fur, big scarves under their necks like
they are in Alaska. Pointy shoes and boots with skinny high heels;
so pointy the point extends like 3 inches beyond the toes..almost like
witch shoes. Brightly patterned tights and panty hose, with wild
patterns. Mini skirts! REALLY mini skirts, sometimes pleated, with
over the thigh stockings. Cross between a hooker and a schoolgirl.
Guess they can't decide - that old Hooker/Virgin thing going on I
guess.

coming home was an adventure...we left rome 3 hours late, I missed my
connection in Philadelphia, airline put a bunch of us up in a hotel
with a meal for the night. Immigration, baggage and customs in Phil
took a good 1.5 hrs, then reticketing took another 1.5 (they had to
rebook close to half the passsengers...my guess is at least 150 missed
connections). Good news is I got home a day late, but I got bumped to
first class for Phil-Sea! I could get used to that!

All in all a wonderful trip (my third to Italy thus far).