'Hanbok' rediscovered on screen



"The Palace", a TV drama about an imaginary Korean royal family that
ended recently, reigistered much higher than expected viewing figures.
This adaptation of a comic book drew attention with its young, albeit
inexperienced, actors locked in a love triangle, but the real buzz of
the drama was the elaborate setting and outfits.

The leading actress Shin Chae-gyeong (played by singer-turned-actress
Yun Eun-hye) was the most eye-catching as she dazzled viewers with an
endless parade of clothes: from a school uniform with a skirt that was
a little too short, and charming, romantic dresses to full-scale
traditional costume for the royal wedding.

The most fascinating was a mix and match of contemporary clothing with
modified versions of "hanbok," or traditional Korean costume. A full
skirt was shortened and worn over a petticoat, and matched with a
spaghetti strap top and a petite jeweled bag, becoming a perfect outfit
for a young lady.

Yun Eun-hye in full-scale traditional Korean costume in "The Palace."
A conventionally short jacket, usually the length of a bolero, was
lengthened, and the sleeves were cut closer to the arms, like a western
three-quarter jacket. Fastened with a sash and worn with an A-line
skirt in matching color (with the sash), it looked trendy while
suggesting hint of "hanbok." The current box-office hit movie
"Forbidden Quest" set in the Joseon Dynasty features equally attractive
wardrobe. Contrary to the common belief that our Korean ancestors
dressed mostly in toned-down, monochromatic garments, men in the movie
sport sophisticated yet bold colors such as teal and purple.

The highlight, of course, falls on the royal concubine Jeong (played by
Kim Min-jeong). She is garbed in a palette of colors from off-white and
peach to scarlet and dark violet.

If you would like to take another close look at these rediscovered
traditional clothes, pay a visit to "Korean Wave: Wearing Hanbok," an
exhibition on the traditional costumes that appeared on screen.

The first hall welcomes visitors with a special zone dedicated to
actress Lee Young-ae who earned international fame with her royal
chef/doctor role in TV drama "Daejanggeum," or "The Jewel in the
Palace." Lee was also much photographed wearing a demure hanbok,
designed by established designer Lee Young-hee, when she walked the red
carpet as one of the jury members of this year's Berlin Film Festival.

The box-office hit movie "Forbidden Quest" features attractive
traditional wardrobe.
Past the small Daejanggeum set are the photographs of Lee and other
models posing in hanbok at various locations including Mt. Geumgang and
Haheo Village, taken by celebrity fashion photographer Cho Se-hyun. A
few steps away are the sets of the movie "King and the Clown," where
mannequins in regal attire (of the king and his concubine) and humble
outfits (of the clowns) strike a contrast. Next are costumes dedicated
to "The Palace," beautifully blending tradition and trend, with such
creations as a red strapless cocktail number with calligraphy print.
From "Forbidden Quest," costume designer Jeong Kyeong-heui borrowed a
method from installation art, putting a small LCD screen on the
mannequins wearing the costumes from the movie, a la Karl Lagerfeld or
the Teletubbies.

Opposite second hall showcases the works of hanbok designer Kim
Young-seok and needlework master Koo Hye-ja. Kim veered into the career
only seven years ago, but has made names with his designs that are dyed
naturally in modern colors, while staying true to the tradition. Over
30 creations of his are on display including sheer, unlined ramie
jackets in delicious colors such as lemon, pistachio and peach, and a
dark wine velvet jacquard coat with fur trimming. His collection of
pillows with incredibly colorful embroideries is stacked on one side,
making it an ideal spot from where to have your picture taken.

Koo is an intangible cultural property holder and designed the costumes
for the movie "Scandal," featuring Bae Yong-joon. She put on over 20
traditional costumes, those worn by noblemen in Joseon Dynasty,
demonstrating again that delightful colors - from teal, jade and moss
green to powder pink and peach- were appreciated then.

The exhibition runs through April 25 at the Kyeongheui Palace branch of
the Seoul Museum of Art. Admission fees are 8,000 won for adults and
6,000 won for children.

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By Hwang You-mee



2006.04.08