On Thu, 11 Mar 2004 01:14:40 +0000, ozieb wrote:
I want to make my way down river to finally catch the ferry back into
Egypt - say 3 - 4 weeks.

This is the most obvious problem - you could be stuck waiting for the
ferry for a long time. I took it years back and at that time there were
LONG waits (ie weeks) going to Egypt - check out conditions now before
planning anything. It may be more practical to enter Sudan by boat and
fly back than vice-versa.

Musings - can I get accommodation and food and water at the villages,

The question is not so much if you CAN but if you really want to - the
water is probably dodgy at best and while local people will no doubt be
generous with food you may be inconveniencing them more than a bit.
I recommend taking as much of your own food & water as you
realistically can - at least enough so that you can choose if the local
supply looks unattractive some nights.

do I really need a sleeping bag

Probably. It's a desert and deserts get cold at night. October is still
pretty early in the year so you're not in any danger of freezing
without one, I expect, but it makes a good cushion, anyway.

How tough are the desert crossings

What sort of vehicle are you using? People cross using just about every
conceivable form of transport; mules, bicycles, motorcycles, 4WD, riding
on buses and in backs of trucks. Desert crossings can be sandy and buses
get stuck in them and have to dig out (as we did when I rode the bus,
somewhere between Ed Debba and Omdurman). However if you're in no rush you
should be able to stick to the river, see more, and avoid the problem. If
you must take the desert shortcuts, I'd guess it would be very hard with a
mule or a two-wheeler, doable with a 4WD as long as you don't do anything
silly like getting lost. If you're riding on buses or trucks the longest
is about a one-day ride and expect to dig out of sand at some point or
other.

what sort of preparation should I do, can anyone suggest tips or tricks
to make life a little easier, any one care to come along for the ride?

Have you applied for a visa yet? Official paperwork is likely to be your
single biggest hassle (it took me 6 weeks in Cairo to get a visa). Allow
time for every document you need - way more time than you expect.