Japan, Shirahama (Wakayama Pref) is it nice?

Hello all,

Ages ago I have been in Shirahama (Wakayama-ken).
The only thing I remember is that I did not like it, but I do not remember
why I did not like it.

My husband and I plan to go to Japan again in May and visit a.o. the village
of Yunomine, Kumano Kodo and other places.
We will rent a small car.
I like old scenery, nice villages and tradition.

My husband wants to go to Shirahama again for a few days , because Japanese
friends told him it has changed and is nice now, lovely views, beautiful
scenery and not yasu-poi.

Can anyone give me advice?
and do you know , is there a nice comfortabel ryokan or hotel that has some
tradition?

Thanks for help.

Giny