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Venice family restaurants
Hi
We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week. Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual tourist traps? cheers Laurence |
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We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week. Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual tourist traps? Do Farai Ostaria, near Rezzonico "Metro" stop. tel 041 2770369 Another way to find this is to walk N a "block" or so off of the Rialto bridge, turn west (left) and make your way perhaps 600M to 800. These people are very good in helping you with the ordering etc. Good luck Regards, s |
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We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week. Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual tourist traps? Do Farai Ostaria, near Rezzonico "Metro" stop. tel 041 2770369 Another way to find this is to walk N a "block" or so off of the Rialto bridge, turn west (left) and make your way perhaps 600M to 800. These people are very good in helping you with the ordering etc. Good luck Regards, s |
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We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week. Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual tourist traps? Do Farai Ostaria, near Rezzonico "Metro" stop. tel 041 2770369 Another way to find this is to walk N a "block" or so off of the Rialto bridge, turn west (left) and make your way perhaps 600M to 800. These people are very good in helping you with the ordering etc. Good luck Regards, s |
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We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week. Has anyone any
recomendations for family run places rather than the usual tourist traps? We stumbled across this place that after-the-fact I found a good review at Fodors for. Getting off the #1 vaporetto at Ca'D'Oro you walk from the vaporetto stop through the only possible lane toward the Strada Nova--and then just keep walking directly across Strada Nova into the opposing alley and this very friendly place is staring at you. I was with a group of 10 who had never been to Europe before, and the waitstaff were highly attentive, caring, and helpful--it was a very nice dining experience. Here is Fodor's review from their online site: ============== Osteria Ca'D'Oro Calle del Pistor, 3912 Cannaregio, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5285324 Under EUR13 Cannaregio Known commonly as La Vedova (the Widow), this warm osteria not far from the Ca' d'Oro was opened as a low-key bacaro by the owner's great-grandparents. The high quality of the food is due to the energetic Widow -- the owner's mother -- whose presence is still felt even though she's long gone. A rough Venetian floor, old marble counter, and long tables invite conviviality. Cicheti include tender seppie roste (grilled cuttlefish), polpette (meatballs), and baccalà mantecato. The house winter pasta is the pastisso de radicio rosso (lasagna with sausage, radicchio, and béchamel sauce). In the spring, the chef switches to pastisso de asparagi (with asparagus). No credit cards. Closed Thurs. Aug. 1st wk in Sept. and 2 wks after Carnevale. (Fodors) |
#6
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We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week. Has anyone any
recomendations for family run places rather than the usual tourist traps? We stumbled across this place that after-the-fact I found a good review at Fodors for. Getting off the #1 vaporetto at Ca'D'Oro you walk from the vaporetto stop through the only possible lane toward the Strada Nova--and then just keep walking directly across Strada Nova into the opposing alley and this very friendly place is staring at you. I was with a group of 10 who had never been to Europe before, and the waitstaff were highly attentive, caring, and helpful--it was a very nice dining experience. Here is Fodor's review from their online site: ============== Osteria Ca'D'Oro Calle del Pistor, 3912 Cannaregio, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5285324 Under EUR13 Cannaregio Known commonly as La Vedova (the Widow), this warm osteria not far from the Ca' d'Oro was opened as a low-key bacaro by the owner's great-grandparents. The high quality of the food is due to the energetic Widow -- the owner's mother -- whose presence is still felt even though she's long gone. A rough Venetian floor, old marble counter, and long tables invite conviviality. Cicheti include tender seppie roste (grilled cuttlefish), polpette (meatballs), and baccalà mantecato. The house winter pasta is the pastisso de radicio rosso (lasagna with sausage, radicchio, and béchamel sauce). In the spring, the chef switches to pastisso de asparagi (with asparagus). No credit cards. Closed Thurs. Aug. 1st wk in Sept. and 2 wks after Carnevale. (Fodors) |
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In fact, I did a compendium of online restaurant recommendations from
various websites a little while back, and here is the whole honking list: San Polo & Santa Croce Ae Oche Calle delle Oche, 1552/a-b Santa Croce, Venice, Italy Under EUR13 Santa Croce There's nothing Venetian about this saloonlike pizzeria with shelves of imported stouts and a no-smoking room. Seventy-nine pizza combinations include the Campagnola, lavishly topped with a mix of tomato, mozzarella, mushroom, Brie, and speck (smoked prosciutto). Purists can stick to the margherita, with tomato, mozzarella, and basil. A selection of 16 salads plus a few pasta dishes make the Oche an ideal stop for a light meal between sights. AE, DC, MC, V. (Fodors) Alla Madonna 23 San Polo 594, calle della Madonna (041 522 3824). Vaporetto Rialto or San Silvestro. Meals served noon-3pm, 7-10.30pm Mon, Tue, Thur-Sun. Closed Jan, 2wks Aug. Average L60,000. CC This big, bustling fish trattoria with its friendly service and fair prices has been piling in loyal locals and clued-up tourists for generations. It's a minute's walk from the Rialto bridge, and while the cooking will win no prizes, it offers competent versions of old Venetian favourites such as anguilla fritta (fried eel). Bookings are not taken; you simply join the queue outside, which moves pretty fast. (Time Out) In a town with no fewer than 20 churches dedicated to the Virgin, why not a restaurant where you can get fish after mass on any day but Wednesday? Don't judge the place from the outside -- the rooms are actually well kept and, by Venetian standards, rather elegant, with some decent artwork. Boiled granseola and seafood salads can be followed by a hearty fish soup with croutons, or deep-fried eel for the more adventurous. Grilled vegetables, meat ravioli, and a simple grilled beef fillet al sangue (rare) are all welcome alternatives to fish. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed. and part of Aug. (Fodors) Antica Besseta Salizzada de Ca' Zusto, 1395 Santa Croce, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5240428 EUR13 to EUR18 Santa Croce Tucked away in a quiet corner of Santa Croce, with a few tables under an ivy shelter, the Antica Besseta dates from the 18th century, and it retains some of its old feel. The menu focuses on vegetables and fish, according to what's at the market: spaghetti with caparozzoli or cuttlefish ink, schie (tiny gray shrimp with polenta), and plenty of grilled fish. AE, V. Closed Mon.-Tues. No lunch Wed. (Fodors) Antiche Carampane 24 San Polo 1911, rio terà delle Carampane (041 524 0165). Vaporetto San Silvestro. Meals served 12.30-2.30pm, 7.30-10pm Tue-Sat. Closed 1wk Jan, Aug. Average L70,000. CC This compact trattoria between campo San Polo and San Cassiano could win the prize for the hardest- to-find restaurant in Venice. The militantly local approach is reinforced by a sign on the door reading 'tourist information - L5,000' - but it's a joke, honest, and any guest who shows the slightest interest in traditional Venetian cuisine immediately becomes one of the family. There are a few tables outside, but the cosy atmosphere inside is even better. They are very strong on Adriatic fish dishes; the fritto misto (mixed seafood fry-up) is unbeatable. (Time Out) Alla Zucca 25 Santa Croce 1762, ponte del Megio (041 524 1570). Vaporetto San Stae. Meals served 12.30-2.30pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Closed 1wk Aug, 1 wk Dec. Average L45,000. This cheap and friendly osteria in the peaceful San Giacomo del'Orio area tries hard to break away from traditional Venetian cuisine. There is some meat on the menu, but a strong emphasis on vegetables (which feature in a few secondi as well as the more obvious pasta dishes) will make Alla Zucca (at the sign of the pumpkin) especially appealing to vegetarians. Women dining alone will also feel at home; if any men work here, they're hidden in the kitchen. The clientele is right on, the wine list is small but perfectly formed. In summer, book ahead for one of the three tables outside by a pretty canal bridge. (Time Out) Bancogiro Campo San Giacometto 122 (under the porch), Phone: 041/5232061 Under EUR13 to EUR18 Santa Croce Set in the heart of the Rialto market, in a 15th-century loggia that was home to one of the world's first banks, this gem of a bacaro doubles as informal restaurant at mealtimes. Tables are upstairs, in a carefully restored no-smoking room with a view of the Grand Canal. The market location assures access to the freshest possible ingredients, and the resulting combinations of fish, herbs, and vegetables taste just perfect: simple but intriguing, light but full of flavor. Try such treats as Sicilian-style sarde incinte (stuffed, or "pregnant," sardines) and rombo con castraure (turbot fillet with baby srtichokes). No credit cards. Closed Mon. No dinner Sun. (Fodors) Cantina Do Mori Calle dei Do Mori, 429 San Polo, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5225401 Under EUR13 San Polo This bacaro par excellence -- cramped but warm and cozy under hanging antique copper pots -- has been catering to the workers of the Rialto market since the 15th century. In addition to young, local whites and reds, the well-stocked cellar offers about 600 more refined labels, many available by the glass. Between sips you can munch on crunchy grissini draped with prosciutto or a few well-stuffed, tiny tramezzini, appropriately called francobolli (stamps). Don't leave without tasting the delicious baccalà mantecato. No credit cards. Closed Sun., 3 wks in Aug., and 1 wk in Jan. (Fodors) Da Ignazio 27 San Polo 2749, calle dei Saoneri (041 523 4852/ fax 041 244 8546). Vaporetto San Tomà. Meals served noon-3pm, 7-10pm Mon-Fri, Sun. Closed 2wks Dec-Jan, 3wks July-Aug. Average L60,000. CC Venetian families come to eat in this cosy trattoria between campo San Polo and the Frari, attracted by an excellent quality/price ratio. The cooking is traditional Venetian: mixed seafood antipasti might be followed by a good rendition of risi e bisi (risotto with peas), bream with potatoes, and a decent tiramisù. There is also the possible bonus of a table in the pretty inner courtyard. (Time Out) In a smallish, pleasant, and unadorned space near Campo San Polo, Ignazio is reliable for good food at reasonable prices (except for the expensive fish dishes). The cuisine is classic Venetian, from seafood risotto to fegato alla veneziana, but there are standard Italian items as well. (Fodors) Da Pinto Campo delle Becarie, 367 San Polo, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5224599 Under EUR13 San Polo At the heart of the Rialto market and with tables outside, Da Pinto has its cicheti all ready by 8 in the morning. A necessary stop for curious visitors and a second home of stall vendors and clerks of the nearby Tribunale (Court of Justice), this ever-packed bacaro is worth elbowing your way into. Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Nov. (Fodors) Do Spade Calle Do Spade, 860 San Polo, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5210574 EUR13 to EUR23 San Polo A rough Venetian floor and the motto Vinum bonum fortificat cor hominis (good wine fortifies the man's heart) are tip-offs to the character of this classic bacaro that was once the haunt of Casanova. The plump host, Giorgio Lanza, is the town's unofficial authority on little sandwiches. He coined the term paperini for his own creations, and after tasting one you'll happily add the word to your Venetian vocabulary. At mealtimes, the bacaro doubles as a trattoria; stick to more authentic dishes like salsicce (sausage) di secole, bean soup, baccalà, and cuttlefish. No credit cards. Closed Sun., 2 wks in Aug., and 10 days in Jan. (Fodors) La Zucca Calle del Tintor, 1762 Santa Croce, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5241570 Under EUR13 Santa Croce African, Greek, Mexican Young couples crowd the closely spaced tables of cheerful Zucca, where dishes are adapted from the travels of the owners: there are flavors from Mexico (lemon chicken with guacamole), North Africa (beef with chickpeas and couscous), and Greece (grilled chicken breast with cucumber-yogurt sauce). Delicious starters include Sicilian pasta and, from the Veneto, a salad with sfilacci di cavallo (smoked horse meat). Fresh vegetables such as squash and artichokes are paramount in seasonal flans, soups, and stews. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun., 1 wk in Aug., and over Christmas. (Fodors) Le Carampane Rio Terrà delle Carampane, 1911 San Polo, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5240165 EUR13 to EUR18 San Polo Classics like saor and spaghetti with mussels are rarely missing here, and you might come across caperossoli alla Savonarola (seafood sautéed in olive oil and Parmesan) and John Dory fillets with radicchio di Treviso. Homemade cookies and crostatine (individual jam tarts) make up for the lack of more dessertlike treats. No credit cards. Closed Sun.-Mon., 4 wks July-Aug., and 1 wk in Jan. (Fodors) Minibar Da Lele Campo dei Tolentini, 183 Santa Croce, Venice, Italy Phone: no phone Under EUR13 Santa Croce A three-minute stroll from Piazzale Roma, Lele's 6-by-10-ft place is a real blessing for hungry commuters on their way to work. Not strictly a bacaro, it offers equally good food and wine. Try the freshly made, enormous tramezzini and tiny panini filled with vegetables and cured pork. Closed weekends. (Fodors) Ribo Fondamenta Minotto, 158 Santa Croce, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5242486 EUR13 to EUR18 Santa Croce Signor Martini loves Thoroughbreds, so when he took over the restaurant Brodo di Giuggiole in 2001, he renamed it after the champion European horse Ribot. His kitchen puts out purebred Venetian cuisine -- food that's is fanciful but not fancy. Several homemade pasta dishes are always on the menu, and the fish rolls with eggplant, when available, are worth a medal. The pleasant interior garden is a rarity for Venetian restaurants. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon., 10 days in Jan., and 2 wks in Aug. No dinner Sun. (Fodors) Rivetta Calle Sechera, 637/a Santa Croce, Venice, Italy Phone: no phone Under EUR13 Santa Croce Except for the loss of the bower in back, nothing seems to have changed at the Rivetta over the course of its long history. Aging customers cluster around the counter, topped by a traditional wine-proof marble slab, while owner-host Franco distributes panini and cicheti. This is perhaps the only bacaro in Venice with opera playing on the hi-fi. Closed Sun. (Fodors) Cannaregio Al Bacco 13 Cannaregio 3054, fondamenta Capuzine (041 721 415). Vaporetto San Marcuola or Guglie. Meals served noon-2pm, 7-10pm Tue-Sun. Closed 2wks Jan, 2wks Aug. Average L65,000. CC Not many tourists make it this deep into Cannaregio, but those that do will discover an ancient and beautifully preserved osteria, locatred right on the Cannareggio canal , serving classic Venetian primi such as bigoli in salsa and monsters of the deep such as pesce San Pietro (John Dory) and coda di rospo (angler fish). Don't expect a cheap meal, but at least you won't feel crowded out by loads of tourists. In summer angle for a table in the charming small garden out the back. (Time Out) Only Venetians and those in the know make it this deep into the working-class heart of Cannaregio. Those who do will be rewarded with a beautifully preserved and inviting osteria and such Venetian classics on the menu as bigoli in salsa (fat spaghetti in anchovy and onion sauce), frittura mista (mixed fish fry) and San Pietro (John Dory). Their spaghetti alla Busara (with spicy scampi sauce) may just be the best in town. There's a charming garden out back in summer. (Fodors) Alla Frasca 14 Cannaregio 5176, corte della Carità (041 528 5433). Vaporetto Fondamente Nove. Meals served noon-2.30pm, 7-10pm, Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun. Closed 2 wks Jan. Average L55,000. CC This picturesque bacaro, in a tiny square near fondamenta Nuove, was once the storeroom where Titian kept his canvases and paints. New owners have transformed it from an ombra pitstop into a bona fide restaurant. It's a charming place to eat - especially in summer when tables are arranged under a vine-covered pergola; in winter the pergola is canvas-covered. The only drawback is the cuisine, which is variable. Stick with simple dishes such as the spaghetti with vongole veraci (large clams) and avoid the more ambitious spiced-fish secondi, which don't really cut the mustard. Monday is non-fish night, with a selection of bolliti (boiled meats). (Time Out) Anice Stellato 15 Cannaregio 3272, fondamenta della Sensa (041 720 744). Vaporetto Guglie or Sant'Alvise. Meals served 12.30-2pm, 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun. Closed 1wk Jan, 3wks Aug. Average L40,000. CC It only opened at the end of 1999, but this nouveau-bacaro began to fill up almost from day one. The reason is simple: the ambience is friendly, the food good; but above all, this is one of the best bargains in town (pasta dishes at L10,000 or less are almost unheard-of on the lagoon these days). A walk-around bar at the entrance is always full of cichetari (locals doing some serious snacking); tables take up two oak-beamed rooms around and behind, and spill out onto the canalside walk in summer. The name means 'star anise', one of the spices Rialto traders imported from the East; but spices have little place in the kitchen, which turns out textbook renditions of Venetian classics such as bigoli in salsa and seppie in nero con polenta. If you want to eat here, book. (Time Out) Hidden away on one of the most romantic fondamente of Cannaregio, this family-run bacaro-trattoria is the place to stop for fairly priced, great-tasting food in a part of town that doesn't teem with restaurants. The space has plenty of character: narrow columns rise from the colorful mosaic-like floor, dividing the room into cozy booths. The traditional Venetian fare is enriched with such offerings as carpacci di pesce (thin slices of raw tuna, swordfish, or salmon dressed with olive oil and fragrant herbs), tagliatelle with king prawns and zucchini flowers, and several tasty fish stews. (Fodors) Antiche Cantine Ardenghi 16 Cannaregio 6369, calle della Testa (041 523 7691). Vaporetto Fondamente Nove. Meals served 8pm (single sitting) Mon-Sat. Fixed price L80,000. No credit cards. You don't just come here to eat; you come for the experience. An anonymous doorway in a calle just west of Santi Giovanni e Paolo gives on to a long bar and rustic dining room, decorated with vintage photographs of Venice. Guests - who must book in advance - are plied with a succession of delicious, utterly authentic seafood dishes, and as much (humble but drinkable) house wine as they can take, followed by biscuits, grappa and coffee - all for a fixed price of L80,000. The soundtrack ranges from opera to Sinatra, and Michele, the garrulous owner, is liable to break into song at the slightest excuse. (Time Out) Bentigodi da Andrea Calesele, 1423 Cannaregio, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/716269 Under EUR13 to EUR18 Cannaregio Bentigodi is Venetian for "you'll enjoy yourself," and such a jaunty name is well suited to this trendy osteria, decorated with fishing-boat lamps and old-fashioned prints on whitewashed walls. The menu includes tartare of tuna and swordfish, steamed orata with green apple and lemon, masorini con alici e capperi (local duck with anchovies and capers), and game in winter. Good homemade desserts include cakes made with pumpkin and almond or chocolate and walnut, a rich bread pudding, and simple panna cotta served with fresh fruit. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and 3 wks in Jan. (Fodors) Candela del Bomba Calle dell'Oca, off the Strada Nova, 4297 Cannaregio, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/2411146 Under EUR13 Cannaregio This neighborhood bacaro with a tiny inner garden and a long communal table is frequented by the gondolieri operating the nearby traghetto. Choose from a selection of "green" cicheti, made with seasonal produce, plus the usual Venetian fish snacks and soppressa (fresh sausage). Closed Mon. and Aug. (Fodors) Da Alberto 17 Cannaregio 5401, calle Giacinto Gallina (041 523 8153). Vaporetto Fondamente Nove. Meals served noon-3pm, 7-10pm Mon-Sat. Closed 1wk Jan, mid July-mid Aug. Average L50,000. CC This bacaro with charming trad décor built its reputation in the days of Alberto himself, who has since moved on to the Innishark pub. The trio of young guys that took over are running more of a restaurant with bar counter than a bona fide bacaro. The wide menu ranges from Venetian specialities such as granseola (spider crab) to more creative offerings - gnocchi with baby squid in cinammon, or turbot with radicchio. A favourite with young Venetians, Alberto's is always buzzing and packed - so book ahead if you want to sit down and eat rather than just snacking at the bar. (Time Out) An amicable trattoria that doubles as a bacaro, Alberto is always packed with locals. The faux-antique decor makes the place look old, but missing is the characteristic bacaro odor that comes from years of serving wine. However, what you cannot smell, you see: heaping barrels and demijohns full of vino da ombra. Vegetarians will appreciate the range of nonmeat dishes on the menu. Pasta is made to order, and fish can be better here than in most of the city center's pricier restaurants. (Fodors) Da Bepi Salizzada del Pistor, off Campo Santi Apostoli, 4550 Phone: 041/5285031 Under EUR13 to EUR18 Cannaregio This neighborhood hangout is run by an energetic mamma who, judging from the allegiance shown by local regulars, must know the way to diners' hearts. At peak times you might have to wait a few minutes before receiving any attention, but you'll be consoled by the inviting odors wafting through the busy dining room. All dishes are fresh and well prepared: try the tortelli con spinaci, patate, e ricotta (ravioli filled with spinach, potato, and ricotta cheese) or, for a break from the usual Venetian fare, the spiedini di pollo (chicken on skewers). No CC. Closed Thurs. (Fodors) Dalla Marisa 18 Cannaregio 652/B, fondamenta San Giobbe (041 720 211). Vaporetto Tre Archi. Meals served noon-3pm, 8-9pm Mon, Tue, Thur-Sat; 8-9pm Sun. Closed Aug. Average L60,000. NOcc Signora Marisa, the proud descendant of a dynasty of butchers, is a culinary legend in Venice, with locals calling up days in advance to ask her to prepare ancient recipes such as risotto con le secoe (risotto made with a special cut of beef from around the spine). Given that this may not appeal to BSE- worriers, the menu also features more standard meaty dishes. In summer, tables spill out from the tiny interior on to the fondamenta overlooking the busy Cannaregio canal. Book well ahead. (Time Out) Enoteca Boldrin Salizada San Canzian, Cannaregio 5550, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5237859 Under EUR13 Cannaregio At this efficient, friendly enoteca (wine shop and bar) and self-service restaurant, the food may be cheap but it's always tasty, with both pasta dishes and meat and fish second courses to choose from. The portions are copious, and if you don't feel like a complete meal you can sample from a good selection of cicheti at the bar. No credit cards. Closed Sun. (Fodors) Fiaschetteria Toscana Campo San Giovanni Crisostomo, Cannaregio 5719, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5285281 EUR18 to EUR23 Cannaregio This warm restaurant in a former Tuscan wine and oil storehouse merits a jaunt to Cannaregio for its cheerful and courteous service, fine cucina, and art-filled walls. Highlights include a delicate tagliolini neri con ragù d'astice (noodles colored with squid-ink in a piquant lobster sauce), zabaglione, and a fine wine list. In warm weather, the best tables are in the arbor on the square. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Tues. and 2 wks in July-Aug. No lunch Mon. (Fodors) Il Sole Sulla Vecia Cavana Rio Terà SS. Apostoli, 4624 Cannaregio, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5287106 EUR18 to Over EUR23 Cannaregio Owner Stefano Monti and his young, talented kitchen team create winning Italian and Venetian dishes such as filetti di pesce a cottura differenziata (fish fillet, cooked at the bottom and rare on top), tender baby cuttlefish, and, among desserts, gelato al basilico (basil ice cream). The 18th-century cavana (boathouse) maintains its original low columns, arches, and brick walls, but has been decorated with contemporary flair. A large marble slab by the entrance serves as a communal table for those who want to sample chic cicheti. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Jan. (Fodors) La Colombina 20 Cannaregio 1828, campiello del Pegolotto (041 275 0622/fax 041 275 6794/www.lacolombina.it). Vaporetto San Marcuola. Meals served 12.30-2.30pm, 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Wine bar 12.30-3.30pm, 6.30pm-2am Mon-Sat. Closed 2wks Jan, 2wks Aug. Average L45,000. CC Venice is a small pond, and new arrivals are rare events. But it's not just novelty that this sit-down wine bar ten minutes' walk from the station has going for it; value for money and dedication to the cause of good food and wine are the main attractions. The decor is upbeat osteria, the ambience young and friendly. Alongside Venetian stalwarts such as spaghetti ai caporossoli (with clams), chef Biba Candiani offers a range of succulent dishes with a southern Italian slant. At the end of the single dining room is a long wooden table groaning with bottles, which you choose from a reasonably priced list. In summer tables fill the campiello outside. (Time Out) La Colonna 21 Cannaregio 5329, campiello del Pestrin (041 522 9641). Vaporetto Fondamente Nove. Meals served 12.30-2.30pm, 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun. Closed Jan, 3 wks Aug. Average L70,000. CC On the main route between Rialto and fondamenta Nuove, this restaurant deserves a mention as one of the few proper restaurants in Venice offering high-grade cuisine at no more than average prices. The waiters are a multicultural bunch, but the cooking is solidly (though creatively) Venetian, with one or two meaty excursions. There are some light touches - a salad of funghi porcini, tiny prawns and wild salad greens, for example - alongside old favourites such as seppie alla veneziana (cuttlefish cooked in onion and wine). The ambience is softly lit and romantic; a line of backlit Murano glass fragments just below the ceiling beams gives the traditional decor an exotic twist. (Time Out) Osteria Ca'D'Oro Calle del Pistor, 3912 Cannaregio, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5285324 Under EUR13 Cannaregio Known commonly as La Vedova (the Widow), this warm osteria not far from the Ca' d'Oro was opened as a low-key bacaro by the owner's great-grandparents. The high quality of the food is due to the energetic Widow -- the owner's mother -- whose presence is still felt even though she's long gone. A rough Venetian floor, old marble counter, and long tables invite conviviality. Cicheti include tender seppie roste (grilled cuttlefish), polpette (meatballs), and baccalà mantecato. The house winter pasta is the pastisso de radicio rosso (lasagna with sausage, radicchio, and béchamel sauce). In the spring, the chef switches to pastisso de asparagi (with asparagus). No credit cards. Closed Thurs. Aug. 1st wk in Sept. and 2 wks after Carnevale. (Fodors) Tiziano Salizzada San Giovanni Crisostomo, 5747 Phone: 041/5235544 Under EUR13 Cannaregio A handy place for a quick detour and snack, this tavola calda (snack bar) sells pizza by the meter, which you eat standing up at the counter or perched on a stool. At lunchtime you can also order from the variety of pasta dishes, and sandwiches are always on offer if you are in need of refueling in between meals. No credit cards. (Fodors) Vini da Gigio 22 Cannaregio 3628A, fondamenta San Felice (041 528 5140/fax 041 522 8597). Vaporetto Ca' d'Oro. Meals served noon-2.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun. Closed 3wks Jan-Feb, 3wks Aug-Sept. Average L60k CC It's no longer any secret that this is one of the best-value restaurants in Venice , so make sure you book. Gigio is strong on Venetian antipasti such as baccalà mantecato (creamed stockfish) or sarde in saor (marinated sardines), and difficult-to-find secondi such as anguilla alla griglia (grilled eel); there are also a number of good meat and game options. As the name suggests, wine is another forte - the cantina even runs to bottles from Australia and South Africa, and there is always a good by-the-glass selection. The only drawback is the excruciatingly slow service; allow at least two hours for a complete meal. (Time Out) A quaint, friendly, family-run trattoria on the quay side of a canal just off the Strada Nuova, da Gigio is very popular with Venetians and other visiting Italians who appreciate the affable service; well-prepared homemade pasta, fish, and meat dishes; and imaginative and varied cellar and good-quality draft wine. It's good, too, for a cheap, simple lunch at tables in the bar. The frittura mista is so light it melts in your mouth. (Fodors) San Marco Al Bacareto 1 San Marco 3447, calle delle Botteghe (041 528 9336). Vaporetto Sant'Angelo or San Samuele. Meals served noon-3pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Fri; noon-3pm Sat. Closed Aug. Average L65,000. CC Friendly, family-run trattoria near the Palazzo Grassi museum, with a small terrace in summer, and a lively bar packed with locals downing an ombra and sampling the cicheti. The spaghetti con le seppie (cooked in squid ink) is excellent. (Time Out) Al Volto Calle Cavalli, 4081 San Marco, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5228945 Under EUR13 San Marco Dark and with a ceiling lined with wine-bottle labels, the Volto has the atmosphere of a grotto or cellar, despite its location a stone's throw from the Rialto bridge. Ombre and appetizing cicheti are to be sampled until 10 PM, and at lunchtime the small kitchen prepares pasta and risotti made to order, vegetables done many ways, and more. Closed Sun. (Fodors) Le Bistrot de Venise 3 San Marco 4685, calle dei Fabbri (041 523 6651/ ). Vaporetto Rialto. Meals served noon-0.45am daily. Average L65,000. Credit MC, V. A young and energetic team set up this alternative eaterie a few years back. It's aimed at tourists, but intelligently so; the menu offers revivals of near- forgotten Veneto peasant dishes such as cisame di pesse quale tu voy (sweet and sour sardines) or recipes gleaned from ancient manuscripts. As if this were not enough, the Bistrot also has a busy programme of concerts, poetry readings and art exhibitions. Open for late dining (a rarity in Venice). (Time Out) Vini da Arturo 4 San Marco 3656, calle degli Assassini (041 528 6974). Vaporetto Rialto or Sant'Angelo. Meals served 12.30-2.30pm, 7.30-11pm Mon-Sat. Closed 2wks after carnevale, Aug. Average L100,000. NoCC This tiny place just north of La Fenice is a well-kept secret among Venetian gastronomes. There's not a whiff of fish on the menu, which features the best fillet steak on the lagoon, as well as a few less carnivorous options - including some creative salad tasters, served as an antipasto. For dessert, try the creamy tiramisù. (Time Out) On the Calle degli Assassini -- a name common to several Venetian streets and a reminder of the centuries gone by when violence and betrayal were everyday occurrences -- this tiny restaurant can offer a most peaceful and enjoyable evening. It has the distinction (in Venice) of not serving seafood. Instead, you'll choose from among fresh vegetable and salad dishes; tasty, tender, and generous meat courses, including the delicately pungent braciola alla veneziana (pork chop schnitzel with vinegar); and an authentic, creamy homemade tiramisù to finish. Reservations essential. (Fodors) Dorsoduro Ai Quatro Feri 28 Dorsoduro 2754, calle lunga San Barnaba (041 520 6978). Vaporetto Ca' Rezzonico. Meals served noon-2.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm, Mon-Sat. Closed 1wk Jan, June. Average L50,000. Although the Quatro Feri only opened in 1998, the keen young owners have already carved out a niche for themselves on the local dining scene. Classic antipasti such as sarde in saor and insalata di polpo (octopus salad) are followed by a range of creative pasta dishes (try the gnocchi di zucca con gamberoni e amorini - pumpkin gnocchi with king prawns and turnip heads). The excellent desserts are all homemade, and a good selection of local wines includes a few more challenging vintages. (Time Out) The paper tablecloths and cozy, laid-back ambience are all part of this small restaurant's charm. The menu varies according to what's fresh that day; imaginative combinations of ingredients in the primi -- herring and sweet peppers, broccoli and giant shrimp (with pumpkin gnocchi), salmon and radicchio -- are the norm. A meal here followed by after-dinner drinks at Campo Santa Margherita, a five-minute walk away, makes for a lovely evening. The kitchen closes early on weekdays. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and June. (Fodors) Ai Gondolieri Fondamenta Zorzi Bragadin, 366 Phone: 041/5286396 EUR18 to EUR23 Dorsoduro This is the place for those who appreciate meat and the food of the mainland, and despite the tourist-trap name, it's a favorite with Venetians. Feast on filetto di maiale con castraure (pork fillet with baby artichokes), duck breast with apple and sweet onion, or on more traditional dishes from the Veneto hills such as horse meat and game, gnocchi and polenta. The wine list is above average in quality and variety. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Tues. (Fodors) Alla Dona Onesta Ponte de la Dona Onesta, 3922 Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/710586 Under EUR13 Dorsoduro The virtue of the "Honest Woman" is still maintained by the owners of this small, neat trattoria perched along the rio. Through the glass door you'll see a well-kept old structure with no frills -- the style is dark-brown wooden chairs and white tablecloths. The menu posted outside offers a reasonable choice of staple Italian pasta dishes, fish, and meat. Few tourists stop here, and the little English you'll hear is likely to be a conversation among professors of the nearby Università Ca' Foscari, who are lunchtime regulars. AE, DC, MC, V. (Fodors) Anzolo Raffael Campo Anzolo Rafael, 1722 Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5237456 Under EUR13 to EUR18 Dorsoduro A long way from the madding crowd, this trattoria has a clientele evenly divided between locals and visitors, all eager to eat something simple and authentic at a fraction of the price of comparable Venetian restaurants. Take a seat at a wooden table in the no-nonsense back room and listen to the kind signora (her husband is a few steps away in the kitchen) recite the short menu. Choose from two pastas or a fish soup, two vegetable side dishes, and a main course of fish, either grilled or fried. Plan on dessert elsewhere -- the signore doesn't make sweets. No credit cards. Closed Mon.-Tues. (Fodors) Cantinone Fondamenta Nani, 992 Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5230034 Under EUR13 Dorsoduro A beautiful 19th-century osteria opposite the squero (gondola repair shop) of San Trovaso, this bacaro has original furnishings and one of the best wine cellars in town. No cicheti are offered here, but you won't regret trying one of the huge panini (sandwiches) filled with first-rate cheeses and cured pork. It also serves warm crostini (toasted bread) topped with tasty spreads like tuna and onion or egg and mushrooms. Closed Sun. after 2 PM and 2 in wks Aug. (Fodors) Cantinone Storico Fondamenta di Ca' Bragadin, Dorsoduro 660/1, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5239577 EUR13 to EUR18 Dorsoduro On a quiet, romantic canal near the Accademia, this comfortable trattoria with tables alfresco serves well-prepared specialties such as risotto terra mare (with seafood, vegetables, and porcini mushrooms) and tagliolini alla granseola (narrow fettuccine-shape pasta with crab sauce). Heavily advertised, the Cantinone draws mostly tourists, yet it's hard to beat the good location, and the prices are reasonable. The house wines are good. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and 2 wks mid-Nov. (Fodors) L'Incontro 29 Dorsoduro 3062, rio terà Canal (041 522 2404). Vaporetto Ca' Rezzonico. Meals served 7.30-10.30pm Tue; 12.30-2.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Sun. Closed Jan, 2wks Aug. Average L60k CC Meaty restaurants are rare enough in Venice, but L'Incontro is unique: it's run by a great Sardinian chef who specialises in meat dishes from his Mediterranean island such as porceddu arrosto (roast suckling pig). Pasta provides relief from the beast in creations such as gnocchi with pecorino cheese and tagliolini in a creamy rucola sauce. The steaks - especially the tagliata di manzo - are out of this world, and the cellar has some interesting Sardinian vintages. Grab a table on the sunny terrace in summer, or enjoy the cosy rustic interior in winter. (Time Out) This trattoria between San Barnaba and Campo Santa Margherita has a faithful clientele attracted by flavorful Sardinian cucina and friendly service. Menu choices include freshly made pastas, juicy steaks, wild duck, boar, and (with advance notice) roast suckling pig. (Fodors) Osteria Da Toni Fondamenta San Basilio, 1642 Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5286899 Under EUR13 Dorsoduro This unpretentious bar-bacaro sits on the western edge of the Zattere promenade, near a pretty and breezy side canal. It caters mainly to workers from the harbor over the bridge, and you might luck into a dish of homemade lasagna if you show up during lunch hours. Closed Mon. and 3 wks Aug.-Sept. (Fodors) Randon Enoteca * Campo San Barnaba, (not far from the Accademia Gallery) hone: 041/5224410 Under EUR13 Dorsoduro If you only visit one enoteca in Venice, make it Enoteca Randon, arguably the best wine bar in town, with tables outside in summer and a good, informal restaurant open for dinner. The decor is modern but warm and comfortable, and behind the counter you can see the cooks at work in the kitchen. They might be preparing old Venetian favorites such as baked sardines or saor, but also lasagna, gnocchi ai cinque formaggi (in a rich cheese sauce), lamb on skewers, and home-smoked fish. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Mon. (Fodors) Ristorante Alle Zattere Zattere, 795 Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5204224 Under EUR13 Dorsoduro This is a perfect spot on a summer evening to watch the passeggiata of gondolas, rowboats, and vaporetti, as it's one of the few restaurants with a terrace that overlooks the Canale della Giudecca. The fare is rather predictable -- spaghetti alle vongole (with clams), seppie in tecia, or fegato alla veneziana -- but you might be happy with a plain but appetizing pizza (served also at lunch) in view of the marvelous backdrop. MC, V. Closed Tues. and 4-6 wks Nov.-Dec. (Fodors) Zattere, 795 Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5204224 Under EUR13 San Trovaso (getting touristy and bad?) Fondamenta Priuli, Dorsoduro 1016, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5203703 Under EUR13 Dorsoduro A wide choice of Venetian dishes served in robust portions, economical prix-fixe menus at both lunch and dinner, pizzas, and house wine by the glass or pitcher keep this two-floor, no-nonsense tavern abuzz with young Venetians and budget-conscious visitors in the know. It's always packed, and table turnover is fast. Not far from the Gallerie dell'Accademia, this is a good place to slip into while sightseeing in Dorsoduro, or for an early evening aperitif and some cicheti. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon., wk before Christmas and 1st wk in Aug. (Fodors) Castello Aciugheta Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4357 Castello, Venice, Italy Under EUR13 Castello A mediocre pizzeria-trattoria, Aciugheta (Tiny Anchovy) leads a secret life as an enoteca, with some of the best bottles in town. Show up in the late afternoon and let wine expert Gianni Bonaccorsi guide you. Cicheti and a variety of other tasty bites -- including tiny pizzas, stuffed red peppers, and a fine selection of cheeses -- will keep you from going hungry between sips. (Fodors) Alla Rivetta 5 Castello 4625, ponte San Provolo (041 528 7302). Vaporetto San Zaccaria. Meals served 11am-11pm Tue-Sun. Closed mid July-mid Aug. Average L50,000. On an ancient bridge right behind the Hotel Danieli, the Rivetta has managed to preserve its neighbourhood trattoria credentials - and prices - despite the scores of tourists who troop in and out each day. At the bar, owner Stefano serves creamy polenta con baccalà for little old ladies to take home for lunch. Gondoliers pile in for a noisy, boozy midday meal, which is likely to feature an unbeatable fritto misto. (Time Out) Alle Testiere 6 Castello 5801, calle del Mondo Novo (041 522 7220). Vaporetto Rialto. Meals served noon-2pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Closed 2wks Jan, last week July, 3wks Aug. Average L75,000. CC This tiny restaurant is moving into the major league (so are the prices). There are so few seats that they do two sittings each evening; booking for the later one (at 9pm) will ensure a more relaxed meal. Bruno, the cook, does creative variations on Venetian seafood, many involving spices such as ginger or coriander; sommelier Luca guides diners around a small but well-chosen wine list. (Time Out) Al Mascaron 7 Castello 5225, calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa (041 522 5995). Vaporetto Rialto. Meals served noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Closed mid Dec-mid Jan. Average L70,000. No credit cards. Lively and funky, the Mascaron is still a worthwhile experience if you've never been there before; but for old Venice hands, the no-frills seafood cooking and all-crowd-in-together ambience is beginning to feel a little tired, and the prices a little steep. The counter still groans with seafood antipasti, primi such as spaghetti con nero di seppie (with squid ink) are still simple and filling, and the service is still of the matey, hit-and-miss school. Booking is a must unless you come very early or very late. (Time Out) The convivial, crowded Al Mascaron, with its paper tablecloths and informal ambience, is a regular stop for Venetians who drop in to gossip, drink, play cards, and eat cicheti at the bar. You can bet on delicious seafood, pastas, risottos, and seafood salads. A popular fish dish is the baccalà alla Veneziana (codfish with raisins, pine nuts, and cinnamon). A few doors down the calle (at No. 5183) is Mascareta, a pleasant bacaro under the same ownership. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and mid-Dec.-mid-Jan. (Fodors) Antica Trattoria Bandierette 8 Castello 6671, barbaria de le Tole (041 522 0619/ www.elmoro.com/bandierette.htm). Vaporetto Ospedale. Meals served noon-2pm, 7-10pm Mon, Tue, Thur-Sat; noon-2pm Wed. Closed 2wks Aug. Average L50,000. CC The decor leaves a little to be desired, but the locals who cram into this busy trattoria between Santi Giovanni e Paolo and San Francesco don't come for decor: they come for the great, reasonably priced seafood cooking and the friendly service. Among the primi, the tagliatelle with scampi and spinach, or with baby squid and asparagus, are especially good. (Time Out) Corte Sconta 9 Castello 3886, calle del Pestrin (041 522 7024). Vaporetto San Zaccaria or Arsenale. Meals served noon-3.30pm, 6-10pm Tue-Sat. Closed Jan, mid July-mid Aug. Average L80,000. CC Claudio Proietto's trailblazing seafood restaurant in the eastern reaches of Castello is now such a firm favourite on the well-informed tourist circuit that it is usually a good idea to book several days in advance. The main act is an endless procession of seafood antipasti; the day's catch might include canoce (mantis shrimps), garusoli (sea-snails), or canestrelli (baby scallop shells). The pasta is homemade, and the warm zabaione dessert is a delight. Decor is of the rustic trat variety, the ambience loud and friendly. In summer, try to secure one of the tables in the pretty vine-covered courtyard. (Time Out) Dal Pampo (Osteria Sant'Elena) 10 Sant'Elena, calle Generale Chinotto 24 (041 520 ). Vaporetto Sant'Elena. Meals served noon-2.30pm, 7.30-9pm Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun. Closed Christmas, 1wk May, 1wk Aug. Average L40,000. CC Right at the end of Venice - the last vaporetto stop before the Lido - in the working-class neighbourhood of Sant'Elena, this is home cooking at its best. Officially called the 'Osteria Sant'Elena' but known to everyone as Dal Pampo - 'Pampo's Place' - after the jolly owner, it is right by the football stadium - so it can be difficult to get a table on the Sundays when Venice are playing at home. A good place to escape for lunch when visiting the Art Biennale in the nearby Giardini. (Time Out) Da Bruno Calle del Paradiso, 5731 Castello, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5221480 EUR13 to EUR23 Castello A country taverna (tavern) in the center of Venice, this popular restaurant grills its meat over an open fire. First, though, don't overlook the cicheti, such as the paper-thin prosciutto wrapped around grissini (thin bread sticks), at the counter. As for main courses, you can take your pick from such Italian specialties as fillet of beef with pepper sauce or veal with wild mushrooms. Fish fans might gravitate toward the squid with polenta, scampi, or calamari. AE, DC, MC, V. (Fodors) Da Dante Alle Alpi Corte Nova, near the Scuola di San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, 2877 Phone: 041/5285163 Under EUR13 Castello A little oasis thriving in the deserted lands of Castello, this bacaro has the usual fish cicheti, including folpetti consi (with olive oil, parsley, and boiled potatoes). Closed Sun. (Fodors) Da Remigio 11 Castello 3416, ponte dei Greci (041 523 0089). Vaporetto San Zaccaria. Meals served 12.30-2.30pm Mon;12.30-2.30pm, 7.30-10pm Wed-Sun. Closed xmas-Jan, 2wks July-Aug. Avg L70 CC Remigio is held in high esteem by local gourmets, who are pretty much unanimous that there are few better addresses for fresh fish. This means, though, that it can be extremely difficult to get a table, despite the out-of-the-way location between San Marco and the Arsenale. The décor is glaringly orange and the acoustics are pretty awful, but any lack of ambience is easily compensated for by delicious antipasti such as grilled cape longhe (razor shells), followed by filling pasta dishes and a range of squeaky-fresh, grilled-fish secondi. (Time Out) This popular, family-run local trattoria near San Giorgio dei Greci turns out reliable and tasty fish and a few meat dishes. Try the gnocchetti alla pescatora or the cannolicchi alla griglia (grilled shellfish). It's the ideal place to enjoy an informal meal in the company of hungry, chatty Venetians. Reservations essential (Fodors) Dai Tosi Seco Marina, 738 Castello, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5237102 Under EUR13 Castello Finding a restaurant in Castello Basso can be difficult; this neighborhood trattoria is the only fairly priced place near San Pietro di Castello. The red, hand-painted sign above the window reflects the homey interior and also the cheerfulness of service: tosi refers to the "young lads" on the waitstaff, as opposed to the grumpy, aging career waiters you might encounter elsewhere. Step inside to sample a dish of pasta with seafood, or tossed with fresh veggies, and to taste some well-prepared cicheti. In the evening and on Thursday at lunch you can also opt for pizza; on Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday evenings there's only pizza. No credit cards. Closed Wed. and 2-3 wks in Aug. (Fodors) La Mascareta Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, 5183 Castello Phone: 041/5230744 Under EUR13 Castello An offspring of the extremely popular Al Mascaron, the Mascareta offers refined cicheti and a selection of cured pork and cheeses, washed down with quality ombre like Chardonnay Friuliano. This is one of the prettiest bacari in town, and one of the very few that stay open after midnight. Closed Sun. and over Christmas. (Fodors) Osteria Al Portego Calle della Malvasia, 6015 Castello, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5229038 Under EUR13 Castello At this bacaro, located on a calle where bacari have thrived for centuries, the emphasis is more on food than on wine. Regulars swear by the gelatinous nervetti (veal knee cartilage) served with beans and spienza (beef spleen), but you might take their word for it and turn your attention to the deep-fried crab claws, folpetti, or hard-boiled eggs with pickles and anchovies. A big pot of risotto is made once or twice a day and served on the spot. No credit cards. June-Sept., closed weekends; Oct.-May, closed Sun., no dinner Sat. closed over Christmas, 2 wks in June, and 2 wks in Aug. (Fodors) Trattoria dai Tosi 12 Castello 738, secco Marina (041 523 7102). Vaporetto Giardini. Meals served noon-2pm, 7-9.30pm Mon, Tue, Thur-Sun. Closed 2wks Aug. Average L45,000. CC In one of Venice's most working-class areas, in a street festooned with washing and punctuated by children's bicycles, this restaurant-pizzeria is a big hit with local families, and a welcome retreat to normality for visitors to the nearby Biennale dell'Arte. The cuisine is humble but filling, the pizzas are tasty (try the Gregory Speck - speck is Tyrolean ham), and you can round the meal off nicely with a killer sgropin (a post-prandial refresher made with lemon sorbet, vodka and prosecco). (Time Out) La Giudecca & San Giorgio Ai Tre Scaini 30 Giudecca 53C, calle Michelangelo (041 522 4790/fax 041 277 5176). Vaporetto Zitelle. Meals served 1-2.30pm, 6-9.30pm Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun; 1-2.30pm Thur. Closed 2wks Aug. Average L45,000. CC Most cheaper restaurants on the Giudecca are pizzerias, but this friendly trattoria tucked down an alleyway just past the Redentore church does a good line in calorific working lunches. If you arrive after the noon-time rush, its a good place to relax over some no-frills home cooking. On Sundays they often take a culinary theme - such as goose - and build a whole menu around it. (Time Out) Altanella 31 Giudecca 268, calle delle Erbe (041 522 7780). Vaporetto Sant'Eufemia or Redentore. Meals served 12.30-2pm, 7.30-9pm Wed-Sun. Closed 6 Jan-carnevale, 1wk Aug. Average L70,000. No credit cards. The canalside terrace of this family-run trattoria on the Giudecca is one of the best places for an al fresco meal in Venice, and the service is both friendly and professional. The cuisine is typically Venetian; the risotto di gò (goby - a fish prized only around Venice and in the Black Sea) is good, as is the surprisingly light frittura di pesce. Go for the house white, which is as quaffable as any of the bottles on offer. It's cash only, but the prices are reasonable by Venetian standards. Altanella is a good place to bring that special person - but book ahead. (Time Out) This Giudecca institution facing a large canal is the right place to taste some of the strange-looking fish sold at the stalls in the Rialto's pescheria (fish market). The Altanella is a favorite among locals, although a trilingual menu makes it clear that visitors find their way here as well. Start with a salad of folpetti, followed by a creamy risotto or gnocchi with a seppie (cuttlefish) sauce. Secondi include grilled or deep-fried fish, or seppie in umido (in a stew with its black ink and a dash of tomato sauce), served with polenta. Wine is not this rustic place's strong suit. (vaporetto Line 82, Redentore or Palanca stops). No credit cards. Closed Mon.-Tues., 2 wks in Aug., and 3 last wks in Jan. (Fodors) Harry's Dolci 32 Giudecca 773, fondamenta San Biagio (041 522 4844/fax 041 522 2322). Vaporetto Sant'Eufemia. Meals served noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon, Wed-Sun. Closed Nov-Mar. Average L110,000. CC Arrigo Cipriani's second Venetian stronghold, towards the western end of the Giudecca, is only open from April to October, when the weather allows diners to enjoy the huge terrace with stupendous views across the Giudecca Canal. The cuisine is supposedly lighter and more summery that that on offer at Harry's Bar, but in practice many dishes are identical, and just as competently prepared. What changes is the price: the cannelloni alla piemontese, for example, cost L30,000 here, L69,000 at the mothership. A selection of seasonally changing fixed-price menus offers an even greater saving. Come prepared for mosquitoes on summer evenings. (Time Out) Mistrà 34 Giudecca 212A (041 522 0743). Vaporetto Redentore. Noon-3.30pm Mon, noon-3.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Sun. Closed Jan. Average L50,000. CC The unvisited southern side of the Giudecca is about as far as you can get from tourist Venice. Amidst a sprawl of boatyards stands a plain white building; an outside staircase leads up to this first-floor trattoria with spectacular views over the lagoon. Once patronised exclusively by local shipwrights and gondola makers, Mistrà has become a word-of-mouth success among local gourmets for its excellent fish menu and range of Ligurian specialities; game-based secondi can be sampled too, if ordered in advance. (Time Out) Lido Al Vecio Cantier Via della Droma 76, Lido, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5268130 EUR13 to EUR18 Lido The wild scenery, with intersecting canals and reeds, contributes to the appeal of one of the trendiest places on the Lido, always filled to the gills during the film festival. There's efficient cicheti service, but the restaurant deserves a longer visit for a relaxing meal in the best Venetian tradition: whipped baccalà with polenta and tagliolini con gamberetti e carciofi (with shrimp and artichokes) in spring. Homemade desserts include lemon and almond tarts, or you can dip cookies in a glass of vino passito, a dessert wine. Outside dining is in a pretty garden. (vaporetto Lines 1, 6, 14, 51/52, or 82, Lido stop; then bus Line B to the Alberoni). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch Tues., Nov., or Jan. (Fodors) Bar Trento Via Sandro Gallo 82, Lido, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5265960 Under EUR13 Lido This neat, old-style osteria 10 minutes from Piazzale Santa Maria Elisabetta has a soft spot for meat and innards (one of the owners was a bechèr, or butcher). Lunch is the only meal served, but it stays open from 8 to 8 for ombre and cicheti. Descriptions of tasty snacks from century-old recipes are left out, as they might put off nonnatives. More recognizable options include be baccalà alla vicentina (stewed with onion, milk, and Parmesan); pasta with seafood; and several seasonal risottos. As a secondo, fish can be cooked any way you want. Don't be suspicious of the surprisingly low prices: you are far enough away from San Marco's bells. (vaporetto Line 1, 6, 14, 51/52, or 82, Lido stop). No credit cards. Closed Sun. No dinner except during Biennale. (Fodors) Le Garzette Lungomare Alberoni 32, Lido, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/731078 EUR13 toEUR18 Lido A small, family-run trattoria inside the agriturismo of the same name, Le Garzette cooks very fresh fish, homegrown vegetables, and home-raised poultry, including duck. Meals are served to nonboarders on Friday evenings and weekends. You won't find anything new here, but everything tastes genuine and the staff won't look down on you if you are wearing shorts. (vaporetto Lines 1, 6, 14, 51/52, or 82, Lido stop). Reservations essential. No credit cards. Closed Dec.-Feb. No lunch weekdays. (Fodors) Trattoria Favorita Via Francesco Duodo 33, Lido, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5261626 EUR13 to EUR23 Lido This neighborhood eatery has been in the same family's hands since the 1920s and offers you the choice between a wood-beamed dining room and a vine-covered garden. Seafood is the specialty, always fresh and lovingly prepared; you won't go wrong ordering the tagliolini with shrimp and zucchini or the divine gnocchi con granseola. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and mid-Jan.-mid-Feb. No lunch Tues. (Fodors) The Lagoon Ai Frati Fondamenta Sebastiano Venier 4, Murano, Venice, Italy Phone: EUR13 to EUR18 Murano A walk along the Fondamenta dei Vetrai brings you to the large iron bridge spanning Murano's Grand Canal; down to the left, hanging over the Canale degli Angeli, is the attractive terrace of Ai Frati. As elsewhere in Venice, the key word here is fish, prepared any way you want. The risottos are nicely done, and if you want to taste a famous dish from Murano, ask ahead for the bisatto sull'ara, a local variety of fleshy eel traditionally cooked on a bed of bay leaves. (vaporetto Line 12, 13, 23, 41/42, or 61/62, Venier stop). V. Closed Thurs. and Feb. No dinner. (Fodors) Al Gatto Nero 35 Burano, fondamenta della Giudecca 88 (041 730 120/fax 041 735 570/www.gattonero.com). Meals served noon-3pm, 7-9pm Tue-Sun. Closed 1wk Jan, Nov. Average L65,000. CC. Most guidebooks point visitors to the lace-making island of Burano towards the more famous Da Romano or Il Pescatore-Da Paolo, both in the brightly painted main square. But a better-value meal is to be had by wandering past the souvenir stalls, through the backstreets, to this friendly trattoria across a canal from the fish market. It's a charming, photogenic place for an al fresco lunch; the service is attentive, and there's a wonderfully creamy risotto di pesce. (Time Out) Even cats know that this restaurant dedicated to one of their own offers the best fish on the island. The "Black Cat" has a vivid blue facade that stands out among the low, brightly colored buildings that animate the picturesque Fondamenta della Giudecca, where in warm weather amateur painters set up their easels. Anything you order will taste fresh and genuine, from sweet gamberetti (shrimp) to tender folpetti. The spaghetti alla scogliera comes in a seafood sauce with cherry tomatoes; the fritto misto (fish fry) is outstanding for its lightness and variety of fish. (vaporetto Line 12, Burano stop). (Fodors) Antica Trattoria Riva Longa 20, Murano, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/739610 Under EUR13 to EUR18 Murano This LUNCH-ONLY trattoria can be easily spotted by the bright red walls close to the Grand Canal on the island of Murano. For company you'll probably find local glass workers with a caffè corretto con grappa (espresso with grappa) in front of them. If it's more solid nourishment you're after, go for the freshly grilled fish or the seppie in tecia, served in the rear garden. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sat. and Feb. No dinner. (Fodors) Busa alla Torre 36 Murano, campo Santo Stefano 3 (041 739 662). Vaporetto Faro. Meals served noon-3.30pm daily. Average L65,000. CC This is Murano's ultimate gastronomic stop-off, and a perfect place for regaining your strength after a bout of resisting the hard sell at the island's many glass workshops. In summer - which, when the elements oblige, can stretch from March to November - tables spill out into a pretty square opposite the church of San Pietro Martire. The service is deft and professional; the cuisine is reliable, no-frills seafood cooking; the excellent primi go from the classic spaghetti alla busara (with anchovies and onions) to homemade ravioli di pesce. The jovial owner, Lele, is a giant of a man, and a real character. Note the lunch-only opening. (Time Out) A pretty square with olive trees and a well sets the stage for Da Lele, a favorite of the Muranese. On the ground floor of a dark-red building with a loggia, the restaurant stretches out on the campo, where you eat in the shade of large umbrellas. Check the blackboard for such daily specials as antipasto Busa, with granseola and garusoli; bavette alla busara (flat spaghetti with a hot prawn and tomato sauce); and baked rombo or branzino with potato. Homemade cookies are served with fragolino, a sweet, sparkling wine redolent of strawberries. (vaporetto Line 12, 13, 23, 41/42, or 61/62, Faro stop). NO DINNER. (Fodors) Valmarana Fondamenta Navagero 31, Murano, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/739313 EUR13 to EUR23 Murano This is the most upscale restaurant on the island, housed in a palace on the fondamenta (street) across from the Museo Vetrario. Stuccoed walls and glass chandeliers complement well-appointed tables, and although the menu contains no surprises, the cuisine is more refined than at other places on Murano. Try the baked sea scallops or crab with fresh herbs, or the rich risotto alla pescatora, containing all kinds of fish. In warm weather, reserve a table in the back garden or on the terrace overlooking the canal; inside, there's a no-smoking room. (vaporetto Line 12, 13, 23, 41/42, or 61/62, Navagero stop). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed 3 wks in Jan. No dinner. (Fodors) |
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Ristorante da Bruno, on Calle del Paradiso, in Castello ( halfway between
the Rialto and St Mark's). Elio owns and runs it, his son Stefano waits tables, Stefano's wife Pao, works in the kitchen, and the rest of the staff is semi-family. And one of the best restaurtants in Venice without the expensive trappings of the more famous places. It is the lunchtime ( under contract) feeding place for the employees of a nearby bank they eat in a back room), and a frequent lunch hangout for local gondoliere. Nice people, nice food, lovely rooms. But there will be tourists -- it is Venice. rjf "footman" wrote in message k... Hi We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week. Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual tourist traps? cheers Laurence |
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Ristorante da Bruno, on Calle del Paradiso, in Castello ( halfway between
the Rialto and St Mark's). Elio owns and runs it, his son Stefano waits tables, Stefano's wife Pao, works in the kitchen, and the rest of the staff is semi-family. And one of the best restaurtants in Venice without the expensive trappings of the more famous places. It is the lunchtime ( under contract) feeding place for the employees of a nearby bank they eat in a back room), and a frequent lunch hangout for local gondoliere. Nice people, nice food, lovely rooms. But there will be tourists -- it is Venice. rjf "footman" wrote in message k... Hi We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week. Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual tourist traps? cheers Laurence |
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thanks for the many replies......I hope we'll find time for sightseeing!
Laurence "footman" wrote in message k... Hi We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week. Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual tourist traps? cheers Laurence |
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