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Philadelphia trip report
The Philadelphia Story
BOTTOM LINE: Two weeks is a good amount of time to see everything you'd want, including a few road trips. After that, you'll feel that you've "been there, done that" and have little desire to return. Doesn't compare to Boston or Chicago, but definitely worth a look. GUIDES: Fodor's does a very good job. We stopped using Frommer's and Lonely Planet after a few days, as they were nowhere near as good. However, "Walking Tours of Old Philadelphia" by Paul Hogarth is still the best resource by far for seeing the historic area. Over three decades have made some lesser aspects of this book out of date, obviously, but old buildings haven't moved and history hasn't changed. Online, check out www.gophila.com, especially the walking tour itineraries. FREE STUFF: Plenty. Anything run by the National Parks Service is free, including the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall area. Get tickets for a free tour of Independence Hall (the only way to see it) at the visitor center. But also ask there for free tickets to tour Todd House and Bishop White House. Many of the other historical buildings in the area, such as Carpenters' Hall and the American Philosophical Society, welcome visitors. The grand City Hall offers free tours weekdays at 12:30. These include a trip to the observation deck at the foot of the Penn statue for a fabulous view. Or, you can skip the tour and just go directly to the top, anytime during regular working hours. Kimmel Hall, the home of the symphony orchestra, gives free tours at 12, 1 and 2 every day except Monday. The Lord and Taylor department store across from City Hall has a grand organ in the center of the store. Listen to a free concert Mon-Sat at 11:15 and 5:15. But be prepared to stand; there are very few places to sit in this store, unless you go to the expensive café. Or, you could shop, with the music in the background. The Rodin Museum, just off the Ben Franklin parkway near the Philadelphia Museum of Art, has free admission to see the largest collection of his sculptures outside of Paris, though there's a box for donations. Speaking of the Art Museum, it's not completely free but Sundays are "pay what you want". How close that would be to "free" depends on your nerve, as you still have to go to an admissions clerk. Once inside, there are free tours of various aspects of the collection almost hourly. First Friday is a get-together of the arts community in the late afternoon and evening on the first Friday of every month. People go around visiting various galleries in the Old City area, munching on cheese and other snacks and sipping wine, depending on what each place has chosen to give away. While you're there, drop in to the free Firemen's Hall museum, or you can visit it Tues-Sat 9-4:30. Free parking! Once you go south even a block or two from the main downtown area, the meters disappear and street parking is free. However, there is a two hour limit (even where there are meters), except on Sunday. Enforcers come by and write down the plate numbers of cars, then return in a couple of hours to ticket violators. In order to reset the two hour clock you must move your car to a different block. Or, you can go farther south. Below South Street the two hour max doesn't apply on most streets. Of course, actually finding a spot anywhere can be quite a challenge. Not really free, but a great deal, is the tour of the Masonic Temple, across the road from City Hall. This secretive society is apparently opening up, allowing you to take all the pictures and video you like and happily answering questions. Yet later, you realize you've actually learned very little about them. But it's a really magnificent building, with numerous rooms decorated in spectacular fashion in various historical themes. They ask for a $3 donation. Another excellent value is the Barnes Foundation art museum. Admission is $5, for which you'll be able to see 175 Renoirs, 66 Cezannes (more than in all of France, much to the chagrin of the many French visitors), 65 Matisses (plus Matisse himself painted a mural there), and various masterpieces by Van Gogh, Degas, Picasso, Gauguin, Tintoretto and others. You don't have to be an art aficionado to appreciate this display. There are numerous free tours. This is not your standard museum. You can't just walk up and buy a ticket. You have to call to make a reservation and pay by credit card. The number of visitors is limited, making the viewing very comfortable. You'll often have a room full of masterpieces all to yourself. Call well in advance; two months is not excessive. No photos allowed inside; there are lockers secured by a quarter, which is returned when you put back the key. No food service and you can't go out and return. Have a good meal before you go. Things that aren't obvious: walk around Society Hill and the area southwest of Rittenhouse Square. Every house is a restored historic wonder. Walk Philadelphia's little streets, barely wide enough for a car, for a real taste of the Old World. Visit the Italian Market, ideally on Saturday. You can load up on the free samples, but you'll probably be so impressed that you'll actually buy. South Street has changed a lot since the Orlons' song made it famous, but it's still the funkiest street in town. And Jim's Steaks is still the best place to get a real Philly cheesesteak sandwich, as evidenced by the perpetual long lines (which move quickly). The majestic 30th street railway station (at Market street) leads to University City. Drexel isn't too impressive, but the University of Pennsylvania offers a pleasant campus walk. On a nice day, there's nothing like getting away from everybody in the huge Fairmount Park. Pennsylvania liquor laws: Attitudes still seem rather wacky in this state of Quaker-influenced laws. Apparently the state still controls the sale of wine and liquor and restaurants that you'd think would be licensed often are not. However, they are usually BYOB and don't charge corkage. Interestingly, although they can't sell you wine, they can give it away! Some places will offer you a free glass of wine with your meal. If you bring your own, you are permitted to put the cork or cap back on and take the partly drunk bottle with you. Fairly cheap food and drink: Reading Market is certainly a great place to pick up a good, cheap, informal lunch. On the way in, you'll notice the Independence Brew Pub. Looks pricey and the menu confirms it. But during Happy Hour (4-7), a pint of beer at the bar will cost you only $3, including tax. Better yet, they offer bar appetizers for only $3. The calamari, shrimp, chicken wings, etc. have come fresh that day from the adjoining market and are expertly prepared. Two or three of these and you'll be full, for less than the price of an entrée at a modest restaurant. If you happen to find yourself in Manayunk, the brewpub there charges $3.50 for the beer during Happy Hour, but offers a free pizza buffet. ROAD TRIPS: The most obvious and well-known excursion is to the "Dutch Country", west of Philadelphia to Lancaster. Friday is the best day to visit. Saturday is too crowded and Sunday most things are closed. Of course, you must visit Intercourse and Bird-in-Hand, if for no other reason than to tell people you went to places with such names. In Lancaster, the tourist office will give you a coupon good for two hours free parking beside the market at the center of the city. But overall, you could skip this small city. In Lititz, visit the Wilbur chocolate factory candy outlet, which contains a chocolate-related museum and you can watch treats being made by hand. Free. The nearby Julius Sturgis Pretzel House charges $2 for a "tour" where you get to try and roll a pretzel with oft-reused dough and then watch someone else do it. A complete waste. You don't even get a sample. Check out the Moravian church across the street. In Ephrata, you must see the Green Dragon farmers' market and especially the auction. Then visit the Ten Thousand Villages for excellent crafts at fair prices. Consider a meal at the Nav Jiwan Tea Room there. Every week highlights a different country, serving cuisine from there at very reasonable prices. Lunch only, except Friday evening. You could spend a few days in Bucks county. The obvious first stop is Doylestown to see Fonthill, a huge mansion made of concrete. The builder's eccentricity extends to the adjacent Moravian Pottery and Tile Works, and even the restrooms. The Czestochowa shrine on the outskirts is an amazing thing to see, even if you're not Catholic. Lahaska is all about shopping. The village has been almost entirely transformed into the most pleasant outdoor mall ("Peddlars' Village") you've ever visited. New Hope should now be called No Hope - a pleasant village that has been ruined by greed. Most notably, it's impossible to park anywhere in town without being gouged, and the parking enforcement authorities are very zealous. The only saving grace is the Triumph brewpub. Go across the bridge to Lambertville, which has at least retained some charm. There are two good road trips to New Jersey. Visit the state capitol building at Trenton. Look for the golden dome and drive toward it. Due to the building's strange design, you can't actually see the dome from the street, so it's not obvious you're there. Especially since things seem to be oddly quiet. You'll probably find a parking spot right out front on the street. Hourly (free) tours reveal a rather attractive building. You can explore the complex, including a free museum, but there's no other reason to hang around town. Even the governor agrees. Follow his lead and drive 12 miles up the road to Princeton. The governor's mansion there is an imposing sight, but the real gem is the university. Walk around the grounds and take in the history of this place. Visit the art museum (free), which has a surprisingly good collection, including a Van Gogh masterpiece. Happy hour is a great time to go to the Triumph brewpub on the main street. Same owner as the place in New Hope, but this place seems more pleasant. Same good deals on the beer and bar food. But note: both Triumphs keep their computer clocks about 10-15 minutes fast. You think you're going to order another happy hour priced beer some minutes before seven and you're told that it's just after seven and happy hour is over. Although everyone's watch disagrees, the computer apparently can't be overridden or corrected. The other great NJ road trip is along the Atlantic coast. Some people spend weeks in the seaside resorts, but one day is enough to get the idea. Drive down to Cape May at the southern tip. This quaint old town has transformed all (it seems) its magnificent old houses into expensive B&Bs, which probably look better maintained as a result. Check out the pedestrian mall along Washington Street. A good place for lunch is Henry's on the Beach. With their excellent view, you'd think the prices would be high, but in fact they're more reasonable than in most other places. Heading north, you come to Wildwood, a seaside resort straight out of the 50's, that has kept and even nurtured that kitschy image. Follow the beach road up to Atlantic City, checking out all the elegant towns. In Margate City, stop for a look at Lucy, a failed hotel in the shape of an elephant. Of course, Atlantic City is all about gambling, though it's interesting to check out the roads and places for which Monopoly squares were named. But unlike Monopoly, there's no free parking. A fabulous sight is the casinos lit up at dusk, best seen from the turnpike area. |
#2
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Philadelphia trip report
Thank you Lynn
That is a very nice and well-thought-out report. "Lynn Guinni" wrote in message ... The Philadelphia Story BOTTOM LINE: Two weeks is a good amount of time to see everything you'd want, including a few road trips. After that, you'll feel that you've "been there, done that" and have little desire to return. Doesn't compare to Boston or Chicago, but definitely worth a look. GUIDES: Fodor's does a very good job. We stopped using Frommer's and Lonely Planet after a few days, as they were nowhere near as good. However, "Walking Tours of Old Philadelphia" by Paul Hogarth is still the best resource by far for seeing the historic area. Over three decades have made some lesser aspects of this book out of date, obviously, but old buildings haven't moved and history hasn't changed. Online, check out www.gophila.com, especially the walking tour itineraries. FREE STUFF: Plenty. Anything run by the National Parks Service is free, including the Liberty Bell and Independence Hall area. Get tickets for a free tour of Independence Hall (the only way to see it) at the visitor center. But also ask there for free tickets to tour Todd House and Bishop White House. Many of the other historical buildings in the area, such as Carpenters' Hall and the American Philosophical Society, welcome visitors. The grand City Hall offers free tours weekdays at 12:30. These include a trip to the observation deck at the foot of the Penn statue for a fabulous view. Or, you can skip the tour and just go directly to the top, anytime during regular working hours. Kimmel Hall, the home of the symphony orchestra, gives free tours at 12, 1 and 2 every day except Monday. The Lord and Taylor department store across from City Hall has a grand organ in the center of the store. Listen to a free concert Mon-Sat at 11:15 and 5:15. But be prepared to stand; there are very few places to sit in this store, unless you go to the expensive café. Or, you could shop, with the music in the background. The Rodin Museum, just off the Ben Franklin parkway near the Philadelphia Museum of Art, has free admission to see the largest collection of his sculptures outside of Paris, though there's a box for donations. Speaking of the Art Museum, it's not completely free but Sundays are "pay what you want". How close that would be to "free" depends on your nerve, as you still have to go to an admissions clerk. Once inside, there are free tours of various aspects of the collection almost hourly. First Friday is a get-together of the arts community in the late afternoon and evening on the first Friday of every month. People go around visiting various galleries in the Old City area, munching on cheese and other snacks and sipping wine, depending on what each place has chosen to give away. While you're there, drop in to the free Firemen's Hall museum, or you can visit it Tues-Sat 9-4:30. Free parking! Once you go south even a block or two from the main downtown area, the meters disappear and street parking is free. However, there is a two hour limit (even where there are meters), except on Sunday. Enforcers come by and write down the plate numbers of cars, then return in a couple of hours to ticket violators. In order to reset the two hour clock you must move your car to a different block. Or, you can go farther south. Below South Street the two hour max doesn't apply on most streets. Of course, actually finding a spot anywhere can be quite a challenge. Not really free, but a great deal, is the tour of the Masonic Temple, across the road from City Hall. This secretive society is apparently opening up, allowing you to take all the pictures and video you like and happily answering questions. Yet later, you realize you've actually learned very little about them. But it's a really magnificent building, with numerous rooms decorated in spectacular fashion in various historical themes. They ask for a $3 donation. Another excellent value is the Barnes Foundation art museum. Admission is $5, for which you'll be able to see 175 Renoirs, 66 Cezannes (more than in all of France, much to the chagrin of the many French visitors), 65 Matisses (plus Matisse himself painted a mural there), and various masterpieces by Van Gogh, Degas, Picasso, Gauguin, Tintoretto and others. You don't have to be an art aficionado to appreciate this display. There are numerous free tours. This is not your standard museum. You can't just walk up and buy a ticket. You have to call to make a reservation and pay by credit card. The number of visitors is limited, making the viewing very comfortable. You'll often have a room full of masterpieces all to yourself. Call well in advance; two months is not excessive. No photos allowed inside; there are lockers secured by a quarter, which is returned when you put back the key. No food service and you can't go out and return. Have a good meal before you go. Things that aren't obvious: walk around Society Hill and the area southwest of Rittenhouse Square. Every house is a restored historic wonder. Walk Philadelphia's little streets, barely wide enough for a car, for a real taste of the Old World. Visit the Italian Market, ideally on Saturday. You can load up on the free samples, but you'll probably be so impressed that you'll actually buy. South Street has changed a lot since the Orlons' song made it famous, but it's still the funkiest street in town. And Jim's Steaks is still the best place to get a real Philly cheesesteak sandwich, as evidenced by the perpetual long lines (which move quickly). The majestic 30th street railway station (at Market street) leads to University City. Drexel isn't too impressive, but the University of Pennsylvania offers a pleasant campus walk. On a nice day, there's nothing like getting away from everybody in the huge Fairmount Park. Pennsylvania liquor laws: Attitudes still seem rather wacky in this state of Quaker-influenced laws. Apparently the state still controls the sale of wine and liquor and restaurants that you'd think would be licensed often are not. However, they are usually BYOB and don't charge corkage. Interestingly, although they can't sell you wine, they can give it away! Some places will offer you a free glass of wine with your meal. If you bring your own, you are permitted to put the cork or cap back on and take the partly drunk bottle with you. Fairly cheap food and drink: Reading Market is certainly a great place to pick up a good, cheap, informal lunch. On the way in, you'll notice the Independence Brew Pub. Looks pricey and the menu confirms it. But during Happy Hour (4-7), a pint of beer at the bar will cost you only $3, including tax. Better yet, they offer bar appetizers for only $3. The calamari, shrimp, chicken wings, etc. have come fresh that day from the adjoining market and are expertly prepared. Two or three of these and you'll be full, for less than the price of an entrée at a modest restaurant. If you happen to find yourself in Manayunk, the brewpub there charges $3.50 for the beer during Happy Hour, but offers a free pizza buffet. ROAD TRIPS: The most obvious and well-known excursion is to the "Dutch Country", west of Philadelphia to Lancaster. Friday is the best day to visit. Saturday is too crowded and Sunday most things are closed. Of course, you must visit Intercourse and Bird-in-Hand, if for no other reason than to tell people you went to places with such names. In Lancaster, the tourist office will give you a coupon good for two hours free parking beside the market at the center of the city. But overall, you could skip this small city. In Lititz, visit the Wilbur chocolate factory candy outlet, which contains a chocolate-related museum and you can watch treats being made by hand. Free. The nearby Julius Sturgis Pretzel House charges $2 for a "tour" where you get to try and roll a pretzel with oft-reused dough and then watch someone else do it. A complete waste. You don't even get a sample. Check out the Moravian church across the street. In Ephrata, you must see the Green Dragon farmers' market and especially the auction. Then visit the Ten Thousand Villages for excellent crafts at fair prices. Consider a meal at the Nav Jiwan Tea Room there. Every week highlights a different country, serving cuisine from there at very reasonable prices. Lunch only, except Friday evening. You could spend a few days in Bucks county. The obvious first stop is Doylestown to see Fonthill, a huge mansion made of concrete. The builder's eccentricity extends to the adjacent Moravian Pottery and Tile Works, and even the restrooms. The Czestochowa shrine on the outskirts is an amazing thing to see, even if you're not Catholic. Lahaska is all about shopping. The village has been almost entirely transformed into the most pleasant outdoor mall ("Peddlars' Village") you've ever visited. New Hope should now be called No Hope - a pleasant village that has been ruined by greed. Most notably, it's impossible to park anywhere in town without being gouged, and the parking enforcement authorities are very zealous. The only saving grace is the Triumph brewpub. Go across the bridge to Lambertville, which has at least retained some charm. There are two good road trips to New Jersey. Visit the state capitol building at Trenton. Look for the golden dome and drive toward it. Due to the building's strange design, you can't actually see the dome from the street, so it's not obvious you're there. Especially since things seem to be oddly quiet. You'll probably find a parking spot right out front on the street. Hourly (free) tours reveal a rather attractive building. You can explore the complex, including a free museum, but there's no other reason to hang around town. Even the governor agrees. Follow his lead and drive 12 miles up the road to Princeton. The governor's mansion there is an imposing sight, but the real gem is the university. Walk around the grounds and take in the history of this place. Visit the art museum (free), which has a surprisingly good collection, including a Van Gogh masterpiece. Happy hour is a great time to go to the Triumph brewpub on the main street. Same owner as the place in New Hope, but this place seems more pleasant. Same good deals on the beer and bar food. But note: both Triumphs keep their computer clocks about 10-15 minutes fast. You think you're going to order another happy hour priced beer some minutes before seven and you're told that it's just after seven and happy hour is over. Although everyone's watch disagrees, the computer apparently can't be overridden or corrected. The other great NJ road trip is along the Atlantic coast. Some people spend weeks in the seaside resorts, but one day is enough to get the idea. Drive down to Cape May at the southern tip. This quaint old town has transformed all (it seems) its magnificent old houses into expensive B&Bs, which probably look better maintained as a result. Check out the pedestrian mall along Washington Street. A good place for lunch is Henry's on the Beach. With their excellent view, you'd think the prices would be high, but in fact they're more reasonable than in most other places. Heading north, you come to Wildwood, a seaside resort straight out of the 50's, that has kept and even nurtured that kitschy image. Follow the beach road up to Atlantic City, checking out all the elegant towns. In Margate City, stop for a look at Lucy, a failed hotel in the shape of an elephant. Of course, Atlantic City is all about gambling, though it's interesting to check out the roads and places for which Monopoly squares were named. But unlike Monopoly, there's no free parking. A fabulous sight is the casinos lit up at dusk, best seen from the turnpike area. |
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