Best time for trip to Prince Edward Island ?

My wife would like to visit Prince Edward Island on our next vacation
(we've never been there before). She is really really interested in the
Anne of Green Gables related attractions although we would both like to
enjoy as many different aspects of PEI as possible.....especially since
we would be travelling a significant distance to/from there. For
example, I definitely would try to do some bicycling while we are there.
As a rule, we tend to definitely avoid the tourist trap kind of places
at all costs (I know some might consider anything Anne-related to fall
in that category, so we might have to make a minor exception or two
there although hopefully we can separate the wheat from the chaff) while
never hesitating to go out of our way to see or do something truly
unique or interesting or local flavor.

Our big question however, is this ----

We traditionally go to southern Maine in mid-to-late September to
coincide with our anniversary, and that is certainly our favorite time
to visit that area (Portsmouth NH, Kennebunkport B&B, Portland, etc.)
since it is after the wild summer crowds but before the weather starts
to get too cold and the leaf-peepers descend etc. So at first thought,
we would naturally go to PEI around then too. However, after reading a
couple of the mass-market travel books, it sounds like there may really
be relatively little of potential interest to do in PEI after (US) Labor
Day concludes the traditional "summer" season.

Would greatly appreciate any guidance or feedback on this, as well as
recommendations on neat things to do or see.

Thank you in advance. Will watch this newsgroup for replies.

We went in July about 10 yrs ago and stayed in North Rustico, which put us
near the national seashore (on the Gulf of St. Lawrence) as well as Anne's
attractions, but far enough from the latter that the tourist traffic wasn't
a problem. At that time (before the fixed link was built) the tourist
traffic was very moderate, and all the attractions were open (including all
the lobster dinners -- the best of which we found right in the center of
North Rustico). Lots of byways that are good for cycling; nice beaches on
the Gulf side (avoid Summerside on the Northumberland Strait --- it's a
tourist trap); nice lighthouses; everything within an easy drive.

We normally go to Maine (Boothbay Harbor) in mid Sept --- it's pleasantly
quiet then, but things are still open; however, I'd guess that PEI is a
better bet in summer.

"Justa Lurker" wrote in message
...
My wife would like to visit Prince Edward Island on our next vacation
(we've never been there before). She is really really interested in the
Anne of Green Gables related attractions although we would both like to
enjoy as many different aspects of PEI as possible.....especially since we
would be travelling a significant distance to/from there. For example, I
definitely would try to do some bicycling while we are there. As a rule,
we tend to definitely avoid the tourist trap kind of places at all costs
(I know some might consider anything Anne-related to fall in that
category, so we might have to make a minor exception or two there although
hopefully we can separate the wheat from the chaff) while never hesitating
to go out of our way to see or do something truly unique or interesting or
local flavor.

Our big question however, is this ----

We traditionally go to southern Maine in mid-to-late September to coincide
with our anniversary, and that is certainly our favorite time to visit
that area (Portsmouth NH, Kennebunkport B&B, Portland, etc.) since it is
after the wild summer crowds but before the weather starts to get too cold
and the leaf-peepers descend etc. So at first thought, we would naturally
go to PEI around then too. However, after reading a couple of the
mass-market travel books, it sounds like there may really be relatively
little of potential interest to do in PEI after (US) Labor Day concludes
the traditional "summer" season.

Would greatly appreciate any guidance or feedback on this, as well as
recommendations on neat things to do or see.

Thank you in advance. Will watch this newsgroup for replies.

I am proud to say I am a native son of Spud island. PEI, today has a
lot to do come fall although the most touristy attractions will have
shut down to which you may probably say "good riddance"! The beaches
are still there and quite often, especially along the relatively
neglected south shore (the big draw tourist beaches are in the north
shore National Parks), may still be quite pleasantly swimmable.

My daughetr is telling me that I have to take her to piano lessons and
so I will elaborate considerably on the pleasures of PEI in early fall,
what to see, where to stay etc. later this evening or tomorrow.

While you're at it, Skookum", I'd be curious to know to what extent the
fixed link has changed the island, in terms of tourist trade and local
culture? One of things we found so special about pre-bridge PEI was its
feeling of being somewhat apart from the commercialism of (even) Nova
Scotia, and especially of Ontario or the U.S. Newfoundland still has that
feel, but we fear PEI may have lost some of it now that access is easier.

"Skookum" wrote in message
ups.com...
I am proud to say I am a native son of Spud island. PEI, today has a
lot to do come fall although the most touristy attractions will have
shut down to which you may probably say "good riddance"! The beaches
are still there and quite often, especially along the relatively
neglected south shore (the big draw tourist beaches are in the north
shore National Parks), may still be quite pleasantly swimmable.

My daughetr is telling me that I have to take her to piano lessons and
so I will elaborate considerably on the pleasures of PEI in early fall,
what to see, where to stay etc. later this evening or tomorrow.

Much of what I say on the subject of the fixed link would be what the
lawyers would call hearsay as i have not lived there since its
completion.

My own sense is that PEI had gone farther down the path of
tourist-oriented commercialism than equivalent areas of Nova Scotia
(and New Brunswick) well prior to the opening of the link. Strectched
along the lands adjacent to the north shore National Park area arose
many an "attraction" of questionable aesthetics and these began to dot
the landscape really back to the mid 70s and elsewhere on the Island
too.

The difficult-to-articulate quality of "islandness" certainly did
diminish when the voyage became so easy and quick. I was not one of
those desperately opposed to building the link (in fact I did a back of
the envelope and very early financial assessment of the project back in
the early 1980s for a local firm that contemplated doing the project).
But there was something very special about having to wait and travel by
ferries. Mid summer it used to be a real ordeal waiting in line for
hours and in winter there was both the thrill of the ice but also the
impact of excessive ice and wind wherein cancellations or 12 hour
crossings (it usually took 45 minutes) were not uncommon. Somewhere
there's a phrase to the effect that we come to love that for which we
have suffered!

But again, I think PEI had stopped feeling quaint and distant well
before 1997 when the bridge opened. One of the prime factors had been a
"Comprehensive Development Plan" in the mid 1960s that funded big
farmers to eat up little ones and that was accompanied by a steady
consolidation of the small one roon schools and also consolidation of
churches. All this eroded the raison d'etre of many a small community
including the one I loved most, Cherry Valley (10 miles east of
Charlottetown on the road that leads to the still operating Wood
islands ferry crossing to NS).

Having meditated overnight on the Island's attractions and the extent
to which these close down at the Labour Day weekend, I can
enthusiastically endorse your September visit to PEI. To my mind
Prince Edward island's most special attributes are the bucolic
landscapes that one can hardly avoid and the beaches. Both are not only
quite intact in September but arguably at their best. Potatoes are
being harvested throughout the green and rolling landscapes that make
for lovely day drives - the Island has well marked scenic drives in
all sections - the Kings By-way, a highlight of which is the pretty
little towns of montague and Cardigan and the farther flung fishing and
Magdalene ferry port of Souris; the Blue Heron trail through the busy
central 1/3 of PEI and the less traveled North Cape coastal drive
"up west". For details see
www.gov.pe.ca/visitorsguide/scenicdrives/

My favourite beaches are the smaller ones along PEI's south shore. We
used to go down to the beach pretty well anywhere we wanted and, as
mentioned, that south shore is warmer. A pretty significant example of
a south shore beach is Chelton near Borden. On the north shore, by
September it's cooling a little but a big bonus is that the crowds of
summer are mostly gone. A bike ride from Cavendish east to Dalvay would
give you a chance to stop in and sample which you liked best. My north
shore favourite is actually to the east of the main array of parks, a
very long sandy one at Point deroche (I can give detailed directions if
you ask).

You mention an interest in bicycling. I don't do much myself but my
lifelong pal, Alan (whose florist shop in Charlottetown, Hearts and
Flowers is the Island's best from my utterly unbiased viewpoint ;-)
speaks highly of the routes that have been created along the many
abandoned rail lines that criss-cross the Island. The same website as
above has a link for cycling routes,
www.gov.pe.ca/visitorsguide/explore/cycle.php3

One of my favourite venues which, in September is only on Saturdays is
the Charlottetown Farmers market. Home made breads and pastries, a
great coffee with old fashioned picnic tables to sit at, sausages,
loads of fall vegetables including the ubiquitous potato and a very
nice award winning smoked salmon stand where you can get a bagel with
lox usually prepared by another good friend of mind, Kim Dormaar. My
late father used to call in at the market every Saturday all year round
and kibbutz with one and all.

Downtown Charlottetown has got a fair number of very nice touristy
stores some of which do close down for the winter but most of which do
not. An amble around Great George Street 9always loved that name), the
waterfront near the big hotel, and the adjoining streets is really
nice. I happened across a virtual tour map at
http://www.peisland.com/virtualtour3/citymap.htm which is a pretty good
route for sampling. PEI's "second city" my birthplace, Summerside
is also worth a ramble. There are lots of charming old houses near the
mainstreet downtown and I can imagine a bike ride would be pleasant
there.

The best of eats are still going strong in September. Lobster season is
at its peak in September. I was never a big fan of the church lobster
suppers but they remain open well into October now if you like that
sort of thing. See for example www.peilobstersuppers.com. I prefer to
find a place that just sells seafood and get a nice cooked lobster and
eat it hot (by arrangement). The now misnamed Queen Street meat market
(not on Queen but rather University) in Charlottetown will cook you a
nice big guy - around 2 pounds per person is a nice hog-fest. I am
unsure of MacKinnon Lobster Pound's closing date - it's the
biggie down at the waterfront. There is a nice lobster shop on the
Summerside waterfront too and one of my favourite seafood stores is
actually at Carleton a mile or so from the fixed link. I can't
remember its name - it's on the right as you drive away from the
bridge.
I like mussels almost as well as lobsters and they are really cheap all
over to buy and cook them yourself if you have kitchen in your
accommodation (many places offer this) . To have someone else cook
'em, I go to the Seat-treat which is a diner on the corner of
University and Euston. Unlike many places, Seat treat doesn't
overcook mussels. But don't expect a wine list! Other good
Charlottetown restaurants include the Griffon Room at the Dundee, the
Claddagh Room, and Piece of Cake (which in a way is badly named because
they do really nice gourmet dinners not just desserts). I am less
familiar with dining outside Charlottetown.

Because I had lots of relatives to stay with I can't really make any
big recommendations on accommodation. One place I've heard real good
things about but which may (or perhaps, may not) be pricey from your
standpoint is the Inns on Great George, a diverse array of rooms and
suites in several adjoining heritage buildings right downtown in
Charlottetown. If you contact me and say something more about price
range, types of accommodation and preferred locales I may have an
inspiration but you can also browse all sorts of possibilities on
www.tourpei.ca/site/Accommodation/index.php

Have a great time planning this and feel free to post new queries to
the newsgroup or contact me directly at ndaleATuniserve.com. (AT =@)

Good insights. Thanx. I still love the place.

"Skookum" wrote in message
oups.com...
Much of what I say on the subject of the fixed link would be what the
lawyers would call hearsay as i have not lived there since its
completion.

My own sense is that PEI had gone farther down the path of
tourist-oriented commercialism than equivalent areas of Nova Scotia
(and New Brunswick) well prior to the opening of the link. Strectched
along the lands adjacent to the north shore National Park area arose
many an "attraction" of questionable aesthetics and these began to dot
the landscape really back to the mid 70s and elsewhere on the Island
too.

The difficult-to-articulate quality of "islandness" certainly did
diminish when the voyage became so easy and quick. I was not one of
those desperately opposed to building the link (in fact I did a back of
the envelope and very early financial assessment of the project back in
the early 1980s for a local firm that contemplated doing the project).
But there was something very special about having to wait and travel by
ferries. Mid summer it used to be a real ordeal waiting in line for
hours and in winter there was both the thrill of the ice but also the
impact of excessive ice and wind wherein cancellations or 12 hour
crossings (it usually took 45 minutes) were not uncommon. Somewhere
there's a phrase to the effect that we come to love that for which we
have suffered!

But again, I think PEI had stopped feeling quaint and distant well
before 1997 when the bridge opened. One of the prime factors had been a
"Comprehensive Development Plan" in the mid 1960s that funded big
farmers to eat up little ones and that was accompanied by a steady
consolidation of the small one roon schools and also consolidation of
churches. All this eroded the raison d'etre of many a small community
including the one I loved most, Cherry Valley (10 miles east of
Charlottetown on the road that leads to the still operating Wood
islands ferry crossing to NS).

Skookum wrote:
Having meditated overnight on the Island's attractions and the extent
to which these close down at the Labour Day weekend...... (snip)

Wow ! Thank you very much for taking time to write such a comprehensive
reply. That was great and definitely very appreciated.

If there was an FAQ for Prince Edward Island tourism, your post would
make a terrific contribution IMHO.

We're going to look at the links you suggested, and as we get further
into actually planning our trip then I'm sure I'll return with more
specific questions.

Once again, many thanks :-)