Palio di Siena

Having been to Siena several times previously, I'm going to be there
again in August, this time, for the first time, when the (second)
Palio is taking place. I know all the stories about possible injury to
horses/riders etc, but I'm looking for practical advice about how best
to manage the day in the city, with the Palio taking place in the
evening.

I'll be with a couple of people who've never been to Siena at all, so
we want to try to make sure they see something of the city at the same
time, but don't know exactly what measures are put in place during the
day to restrict people's movements for later in the evening, when
those restriction start, what our options are if we decide for
whatever reason not to stay until the Palio (we'll be travelling there
by car from our rented property outside the city) etc etc etc. Ideally
(and I appreciate this may be some way from reality) we'd arrive mid
morning, have a look around the city, and then try and get a place in
the square at the last possible moment, given the likely temperature.
I understand that the crowds are substantial come race time.

We're not looking for a seated viewing point or anything, but do you
need to be fenced into the centre of the Piazza for hours before the
race, or can you you gain access through the barriers nearer to kick
off? If you don't get a place right up against the barriers, is there
any kind of view to be had at all?

Any and all advice gratefully received

Brian

On Jun 5, 2:12 pm, bigbrian wrote:
Any and all advice gratefully received

This is from five years ago but the management might be the same:

First posted 10 II 2002:

This follows the fourth notice in four months to the dishonest

HOTEL ARCOBALENO, Siena, Italy

to credit my account the $101.99 stolen from us by mis-representing
what we would be charged for our stay. They were told that failure to
return the improper charge would result in the world being told what
they did to us via the Internet and the World Wide Web.

We were paying too much for a hotel. I sent my girlfriend into the
Arcobaleno to ask about its price. She was told 130,000 lira, 20,000
lira less than we were paying. While registering, I confirmed the
130,000 lira price (current charge is 140,000-250,000 lira for a
double).
We stayed there two nights.
Upon checking out, I was handed a bill for 460,000 lira, 200,000
lira (US $101.99) more than we had been told we'd have to, and agreed
to, pay. This was rather disturbing as the Arcobaleno was lesser in
every way, including breakfast, than where we had been staying.
Of course we complained in English and ersatz Italian to no
avail. I asked to speak to the owner. The young man claimed he was.
He then called the clerk (presumably at home) who registered us.
Although her English is imperfect, it's quite good. She became
extremely abusive calling me "a liar" and the both of us
"bull****ters".
On the receipt I wrote "PROTEST" and notified the credit card
company on our return. It was a long, involved, and frustrating
process that resulted in having to pay the mis-represented amount.

I believe the owner and clerk at the Hotel Arcobaleno in Siena to be
dishonest, mis-representative crooks and urge you to not patronize
them. In a lifetime of travel, spending thousands of nights in hotels,
this is the first time anything like this has ever happened to me. I
hope it's the last and that it never happens to you.

--

The Arcobaleno provided us with two (count 'em, 2) hangers, too little
light to read, and a far less comprehensive breakfast than our first
night's 150,000 lira hotel. When I asked for an additional bar of tiny
soap, I was reluctantly given one that had been crushed and crumbled
into uselessness.

has not responded to our demand to be
credited. They have had four notices, over four months, that this
would be posted.

On 6 Jun, 12:52, wrote:
On Jun 5, 2:12 pm, bigbrian wrote:

Any and all advice gratefully received

Well, that really helped.

Thanks.

Brian

"bigbrian" wrote in message
ups.com...

Having been to Siena several times previously, I'm going to be there
again in August, this time, for the first time, when the (second)
Palio is taking place. I know all the stories about possible injury to
horses/riders etc, but I'm looking for practical advice about how best
to manage the day in the city, with the Palio taking place in the
evening.

You might be interested in this article which appeared in last weeks 'The
Spectator'. I have pasted it in because it is not accessible on-line.

Hope this helps.

Armchair Traveller

A day at the races

Tom Norrington-Davies



When I heard you could now take a train to Lhasa I wondered, glumly, if
there was any such thing as a forbidden city any more. In early July, and in
mid-August, Siena is a battleground. The citizens of this ancient Tuscan
city haven't started frogmarching foreigners out of town - as indignant
Tibetans used to - but at least twice a year it is best to keep a low
profile. While you are genuinely invited to come and watch, certain tantric
elements of the event are jealously guarded by locals.



You may know the Palio as a crazy, mediaeval bare-backed horse race, but
that is only half the story. Some of the rituals look quaint to outsiders
but locally it is taken incredibly seriously. This, said Marco (an
impassioned participant) is why some Sienese object to the Palio being
televised. 'Outsiders think it's a joke. They laugh at the costumes,' he
told me. I had to stifle a grin of my own. Half the city was running round
dressed like the cast of Romeo and Juliet. The analogy is not wholly
inappropriate. The feuding Montagues and Capulets had nothing on the Palio.



Siena is divided into 17 prefectures or contrade, clearly marked by banners
flying from every door and window. The contrade are historical rivals and,
as you might expect, every horse in the race represents one of them.



This is all watched by thousands of Sienese and the odd tourist, who
shoehorn themselves into the campo (the town square known locally as 'the
field') some hours beforehand. It is hot, crowded and uncomfortable, but
worth every minute. Well, both of them. It may come as a shock to know that
the race lasts about 90 seconds. And as for the rules.



Only ten horses can fit on to the narrow track around the campo. Lots are
drawn to see which ten can run and to match the horses with riders.
Scuppering the chances of a rival by any devious means other than actually
interfering with his reins is allowed. Even if a rider is dislodged, the
horse can still win the race.



How do I know all this? We infiltrated a contrada for some serious feasting
on the eve of the race. Actually, tourists are more than welcome to buy
tickets for these huge meals, cooked entirely by teams of volunteers and
served in the streets. Ours was a spectacular spread. The centrepiece was
steak 'Florentine' (a whole T-bone cooked rare and served with lemon). I don't
need to tell you how incredible it was to see 1,300 T-bones hitting the
coals of an outsized barbecue. It was manned by about 20 men, all singing
their hearts out as they cooked.



Song is a huge part of the Palio. Each contrada puts together an army of
supporters who march through the streets trying to outdo each other with
raucous singing day and night; not to mention drumming and the unnerving art
of flag-throwing. It is when the streets are slightly rabid with this mix of
physical and psychological drama that it is best to shrink into the walls. I
was shoved aside on two occasions, once when I unwittingly strayed into the
path of a procession, and again when I attempted to enter a church. Inside,
a horse was being blessed by a priest. This is a rite performed on every
animal in the race. If the horse defecates in the church, it's good luck. I
may not have made it inside but I will never get over the sight of a horse
leaving a church to the kind of raucous well-wishing most newlyweds would
kill for.



The Palio is not an easy experience for the outsider to navigate, but it is
exciting and the participants will let you know when you can and can't join
in. Just don't expect too many ps & qs and don't laugh (unless everyone else
does). I'd go again tomorrow. Before and after Palio time, Siena weaves a
somewhat gentler magic: the campo is just as stunning sans careering
stallions, and the views of Chianti's rolling hills would enchant even the
most world-weary traveller.



This year the Palio takes place on 2 July and 16 August.

"FredBear" wrote in message
...
Having been to Siena several times previously, I'm going to be there
again in August, this time, for the first time, when the (second)
Palio is taking place. I know all the stories about possible injury to
horses/riders etc, but I'm looking for practical advice about how best
to manage the day in the city, with the Palio taking place in the
evening.

I haven't seen previous replies, so this may be redundant.: You will have to
be there early-- very early. You really cannot see much at all unless you
are in the front row or two at most. . The piazza is more or less flat, and
if you are back at all you can't see above heads. Much of the event is made
of the various contradas parading, and that is out of sight if you are back.
People are not at all timid about elbowing and pushing their way in front of
you so you have to elbow back. You will want to see things. If you go to
the toilet -- and you will have to sooner or later -- someone has to
forcefully hold your spot -- empty spaces are fought over. I suggest you get
to the square at eight the latest, sit in a cafe and have coffee ( not too
much!) and size up the growing crowd and make your move early. Plan to be at
the piazza for eight or more hours.
There is no shade and it will be hot. Umbrellas are not popular, so a good
shady hat and sleeves to prevent sunburn. There are a few posts around the
peripehery, and some people try to sit on them, but are often pushed off by
others who think they are blocking the view. ( They are not, but mobs is
mobs). My kids have made it about half the time.
The corner to the left of the Campanile ( facing the town hall) is where the
accidents happen -- dangerous but it can be exciting. The opposite corner
( right rear whan facing the town hall) is the starting line. It is a timed
race so no knowing where it might end.
If you do get a front row (facing away from the town hall), keep an eye in
shop windows the next few days. Many photos are taken and put up for sale.
You may find picture of yourself at the Palio.
Note: there are grandstand seats arounf the edges, and the hotels facing the
piazza sell seats at their windows. Booked ages in advance, but worth a
call the tourist agencies if you have the money. Such seats would allow you
to be comfortable, and you wouldn't have to get there too early. Probably
too late now.
rjf