Venice family restaurants

Hi

We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week.
Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual
tourist traps?

cheers

Laurence

We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week.
Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual
tourist traps?

Do Farai Ostaria, near Rezzonico "Metro" stop. tel 041 2770369

Another way to find this is to walk N a "block" or so off of the Rialto
bridge, turn west (left) and make your way perhaps 600M to 800.
These people are very good in helping you with the ordering etc. Good luck

Regards, s

We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week.
Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual
tourist traps?

Do Farai Ostaria, near Rezzonico "Metro" stop. tel 041 2770369

Another way to find this is to walk N a "block" or so off of the Rialto
bridge, turn west (left) and make your way perhaps 600M to 800.
These people are very good in helping you with the ordering etc. Good luck

Regards, s

We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week.
Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual
tourist traps?

Do Farai Ostaria, near Rezzonico "Metro" stop. tel 041 2770369

Another way to find this is to walk N a "block" or so off of the Rialto
bridge, turn west (left) and make your way perhaps 600M to 800.
These people are very good in helping you with the ordering etc. Good luck

Regards, s

We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week. Has anyone any
recomendations for family run places rather than the usual tourist
traps?

We stumbled across this place that after-the-fact I found a good review at
Fodors for. Getting off the #1 vaporetto at Ca'D'Oro you walk from the
vaporetto stop through the only possible lane toward the Strada Nova--and
then just keep walking directly across Strada Nova into the opposing alley
and this very friendly place is staring at you. I was with a group of 10
who had never been to Europe before, and the waitstaff were highly
attentive, caring, and helpful--it was a very nice dining experience. Here
is Fodor's review from their online site:

==============
Osteria Ca'D'Oro Calle del Pistor, 3912 Cannaregio, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5285324 Under EUR13 Cannaregio Known commonly as La Vedova (the
Widow), this warm osteria not far from the Ca' d'Oro was opened as a low-key
bacaro by the owner's great-grandparents. The high quality of the food is
due to the energetic Widow -- the owner's mother -- whose presence is still
felt even though she's long gone. A rough Venetian floor, old marble
counter, and long tables invite conviviality. Cicheti include tender seppie
roste (grilled cuttlefish), polpette (meatballs), and baccalà mantecato. The
house winter pasta is the pastisso de radicio rosso (lasagna with sausage,
radicchio, and béchamel sauce). In the spring, the chef switches to pastisso
de asparagi (with asparagus). No credit cards. Closed Thurs. Aug. 1st wk in
Sept. and 2 wks after Carnevale. (Fodors)

We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week. Has anyone any
recomendations for family run places rather than the usual tourist
traps?

We stumbled across this place that after-the-fact I found a good review at
Fodors for. Getting off the #1 vaporetto at Ca'D'Oro you walk from the
vaporetto stop through the only possible lane toward the Strada Nova--and
then just keep walking directly across Strada Nova into the opposing alley
and this very friendly place is staring at you. I was with a group of 10
who had never been to Europe before, and the waitstaff were highly
attentive, caring, and helpful--it was a very nice dining experience. Here
is Fodor's review from their online site:

==============
Osteria Ca'D'Oro Calle del Pistor, 3912 Cannaregio, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5285324 Under EUR13 Cannaregio Known commonly as La Vedova (the
Widow), this warm osteria not far from the Ca' d'Oro was opened as a low-key
bacaro by the owner's great-grandparents. The high quality of the food is
due to the energetic Widow -- the owner's mother -- whose presence is still
felt even though she's long gone. A rough Venetian floor, old marble
counter, and long tables invite conviviality. Cicheti include tender seppie
roste (grilled cuttlefish), polpette (meatballs), and baccalà mantecato. The
house winter pasta is the pastisso de radicio rosso (lasagna with sausage,
radicchio, and béchamel sauce). In the spring, the chef switches to pastisso
de asparagi (with asparagus). No credit cards. Closed Thurs. Aug. 1st wk in
Sept. and 2 wks after Carnevale. (Fodors)

In fact, I did a compendium of online restaurant recommendations from
various websites a little while back, and here is the whole honking list:


San Polo & Santa Croce

Ae Oche Calle delle Oche, 1552/a-b Santa Croce, Venice, Italy Under
EUR13 Santa Croce
There's nothing Venetian about this saloonlike pizzeria with shelves of
imported stouts and a no-smoking room. Seventy-nine pizza combinations
include the Campagnola, lavishly topped with a mix of tomato, mozzarella,
mushroom, Brie, and speck (smoked prosciutto). Purists can stick to the
margherita, with tomato, mozzarella, and basil. A selection of 16 salads
plus a few pasta dishes make the Oche an ideal stop for a light meal between
sights. AE, DC, MC, V. (Fodors)

Alla Madonna 23 San Polo 594, calle della Madonna (041 522 3824).
Vaporetto Rialto or San Silvestro.
Meals served noon-3pm, 7-10.30pm Mon, Tue, Thur-Sun. Closed Jan, 2wks Aug.
Average L60,000. CC
This big, bustling fish trattoria with its friendly service and fair prices
has been piling in loyal locals and clued-up tourists for generations. It's
a minute's walk from the Rialto bridge, and while the cooking will win no
prizes, it offers competent versions of old Venetian favourites such as
anguilla fritta (fried eel). Bookings are not taken; you simply join the
queue outside, which moves pretty fast. (Time Out)
In a town with no fewer than 20 churches dedicated to the Virgin, why
not a restaurant where you can get fish after mass on any day but
Wednesday? Don't judge the place from the outside -- the rooms are actually
well kept and, by Venetian standards, rather elegant, with some decent
artwork. Boiled granseola and seafood salads can be followed by a hearty
fish soup with croutons, or deep-fried eel for the more adventurous. Grilled
vegetables, meat ravioli, and a simple grilled beef fillet al sangue (rare)
are all welcome alternatives to fish. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Wed. and part of
Aug. (Fodors)

Antica Besseta Salizzada de Ca' Zusto, 1395 Santa Croce, Venice, Italy
Phone: 041/5240428
EUR13 to EUR18 Santa Croce Tucked away in a quiet corner of Santa Croce,
with a few tables under an ivy shelter, the Antica Besseta dates from the
18th century, and it retains some of its old feel. The menu focuses on
vegetables and fish, according to what's at the market: spaghetti with
caparozzoli or cuttlefish ink, schie (tiny gray shrimp with polenta), and
plenty of grilled fish. AE, V. Closed Mon.-Tues. No lunch Wed. (Fodors)

Antiche Carampane 24 San Polo 1911, rio terà delle Carampane (041 524
0165). Vaporetto San Silvestro. Meals served 12.30-2.30pm, 7.30-10pm
Tue-Sat. Closed 1wk Jan, Aug. Average L70,000. CC This compact trattoria
between campo San Polo and San Cassiano could win the prize for the hardest-
to-find restaurant in Venice. The militantly local approach is reinforced by
a sign on the door reading 'tourist information - L5,000' - but it's a joke,
honest, and any guest who shows the slightest interest in traditional
Venetian cuisine immediately becomes one of the family. There are a few
tables outside, but the cosy atmosphere inside is even better. They are very
strong on Adriatic fish dishes; the fritto misto (mixed seafood fry-up) is
unbeatable. (Time Out)

Alla Zucca 25 Santa Croce 1762, ponte del Megio (041 524 1570). Vaporetto
San Stae.
Meals served 12.30-2.30pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Closed 1wk Aug, 1 wk Dec.
Average L45,000.
This cheap and friendly osteria in the peaceful San Giacomo del'Orio area
tries hard to break away from traditional Venetian cuisine. There is some
meat on the menu, but a strong emphasis on vegetables (which feature in a
few secondi as well as the more obvious pasta dishes) will make Alla Zucca
(at the sign of the pumpkin) especially appealing to vegetarians. Women
dining alone will also feel at home; if any men work here, they're hidden in
the kitchen. The clientele is right on, the wine list is small but perfectly
formed. In summer, book ahead for one of the three tables outside by a
pretty canal bridge. (Time Out)

Bancogiro Campo San Giacometto 122 (under the porch), Phone: 041/5232061
Under EUR13 to EUR18 Santa Croce Set in the heart of the Rialto market, in
a 15th-century loggia that was home to one of the world's first banks, this
gem of a bacaro doubles as informal restaurant at mealtimes. Tables are
upstairs, in a carefully restored no-smoking room with a view of the Grand
Canal. The market location assures access to the freshest possible
ingredients, and the resulting combinations of fish, herbs, and vegetables
taste just perfect: simple but intriguing, light but full of flavor. Try
such treats as Sicilian-style
sarde incinte (stuffed, or "pregnant," sardines) and rombo con castraure
(turbot fillet with baby srtichokes). No credit cards. Closed Mon. No dinner
Sun. (Fodors)

Cantina Do Mori Calle dei Do Mori, 429 San Polo, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5225401 Under EUR13 San Polo This bacaro par excellence -- cramped
but warm and cozy under hanging antique copper pots -- has been catering to
the workers of the Rialto market since the 15th century. In addition to
young, local whites and reds, the well-stocked cellar offers about 600 more
refined labels, many available by the glass. Between sips you can munch on
crunchy grissini draped with prosciutto or a few well-stuffed, tiny
tramezzini, appropriately called francobolli (stamps). Don't leave without
tasting the delicious baccalà mantecato. No credit cards. Closed Sun., 3 wks
in Aug., and 1 wk in Jan. (Fodors)

Da Ignazio 27 San Polo 2749, calle dei Saoneri (041 523 4852/ fax 041 244
8546). Vaporetto San Tomà. Meals served noon-3pm, 7-10pm Mon-Fri, Sun.
Closed 2wks Dec-Jan, 3wks July-Aug. Average L60,000. CC Venetian families
come to eat in this cosy trattoria between campo San Polo and the Frari,
attracted by an excellent quality/price ratio. The cooking is traditional
Venetian: mixed seafood antipasti might be followed by a good rendition of
risi e bisi (risotto with peas), bream with potatoes, and a decent tiramisù.
There is also the possible bonus of a table in the pretty inner courtyard.
(Time Out)
In a smallish, pleasant, and unadorned space near Campo San Polo,
Ignazio is reliable for good food at reasonable prices (except for the
expensive fish dishes). The cuisine is classic Venetian, from seafood
risotto to fegato alla veneziana, but there are standard Italian items as
well. (Fodors)

Da Pinto Campo delle Becarie, 367 San Polo, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5224599 Under EUR13 San Polo At the heart of the Rialto market and
with tables outside, Da Pinto has its cicheti all ready by 8 in the morning.
A necessary stop for curious visitors and a second home of stall vendors and
clerks of the nearby Tribunale (Court of Justice), this ever-packed bacaro
is worth elbowing your way into. Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Nov. (Fodors)

Do Spade Calle Do Spade, 860 San Polo, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5210574
EUR13 to EUR23 San Polo A rough Venetian floor and the motto Vinum bonum
fortificat cor hominis (good wine fortifies the man's heart) are tip-offs to
the character of this classic bacaro that was once the haunt of Casanova.
The plump host, Giorgio Lanza, is the town's unofficial authority on little
sandwiches. He coined the term paperini for his own creations, and after
tasting one you'll happily add the word to your Venetian vocabulary. At
mealtimes, the bacaro doubles as a trattoria; stick to more authentic dishes
like salsicce (sausage) di secole, bean soup, baccalà, and cuttlefish. No
credit cards. Closed Sun., 2 wks in Aug., and 10 days in Jan. (Fodors)

La Zucca Calle del Tintor, 1762 Santa Croce, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5241570 Under EUR13 Santa Croce African, Greek, Mexican Young
couples crowd the closely spaced tables of cheerful Zucca, where dishes are
adapted from the travels of the owners: there are flavors from Mexico (lemon
chicken with guacamole), North Africa (beef with chickpeas and couscous),
and Greece (grilled chicken breast with cucumber-yogurt sauce). Delicious
starters include Sicilian pasta and, from the Veneto, a salad with sfilacci
di cavallo (smoked horse meat). Fresh vegetables such as squash and
artichokes are paramount in seasonal flans, soups, and stews. AE, DC, MC, V.
Closed Sun., 1 wk in Aug., and over Christmas. (Fodors)

Le Carampane Rio Terrà delle Carampane, 1911 San Polo, Venice, Italy
Phone: 041/5240165 EUR13 to EUR18 San Polo Classics like saor and
spaghetti with mussels are rarely missing here, and you might come across
caperossoli alla Savonarola (seafood sautéed in olive oil and Parmesan) and
John Dory fillets with radicchio di Treviso. Homemade cookies and crostatine
(individual jam tarts) make up for the lack of more dessertlike treats. No
credit cards. Closed Sun.-Mon., 4 wks July-Aug., and 1 wk in Jan. (Fodors)

Minibar Da Lele Campo dei Tolentini, 183 Santa Croce, Venice, Italy
Phone: no phone Under EUR13 Santa Croce A three-minute stroll from
Piazzale Roma, Lele's 6-by-10-ft place is a real blessing for hungry
commuters on their way to work. Not strictly a bacaro, it offers equally
good food and wine. Try the freshly made, enormous tramezzini and tiny
panini filled with vegetables and cured pork. Closed weekends. (Fodors)

Ribo Fondamenta Minotto, 158 Santa Croce, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5242486 EUR13 to EUR18 Santa Croce Signor Martini loves Thoroughbreds,
so when he took over the restaurant Brodo di Giuggiole in 2001, he renamed
it after the champion European horse Ribot. His kitchen puts out purebred
Venetian cuisine -- food that's is fanciful but not fancy. Several homemade
pasta dishes are always on the menu, and the fish rolls with eggplant, when
available, are worth a medal. The pleasant interior garden is a rarity for
Venetian restaurants. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon., 10 days in Jan., and 2 wks
in Aug. No dinner Sun. (Fodors)

Rivetta Calle Sechera, 637/a Santa Croce, Venice, Italy Phone: no phone
Under EUR13 Santa Croce Except for the loss of the bower in back,
nothing seems to have changed at the Rivetta over the course of its long
history. Aging customers cluster around the counter, topped by a traditional
wine-proof marble slab, while owner-host Franco distributes panini and
cicheti. This is perhaps the only bacaro in Venice with opera playing on the
hi-fi. Closed Sun. (Fodors)


Cannaregio

Al Bacco 13 Cannaregio 3054, fondamenta Capuzine (041 721 415). Vaporetto
San Marcuola or Guglie.
Meals served noon-2pm, 7-10pm Tue-Sun. Closed 2wks Jan, 2wks Aug. Average
L65,000. CC Not many tourists make it this deep into Cannaregio, but
those that do will discover an ancient and beautifully preserved osteria,
locatred right on the Cannareggio canal , serving classic Venetian primi
such as bigoli in salsa and monsters of the deep such as pesce San Pietro
(John Dory) and coda di rospo (angler fish). Don't expect a cheap meal, but
at least you won't feel crowded out by loads of tourists. In summer angle
for a table in the charming small garden out the back. (Time Out)
Only Venetians and those in the know make it this deep into the
working-class heart of Cannaregio. Those who do will be rewarded with a
beautifully preserved and inviting osteria and such Venetian classics on the
menu as bigoli in salsa (fat spaghetti in anchovy and onion sauce), frittura
mista (mixed fish fry) and San Pietro (John Dory). Their spaghetti alla
Busara (with spicy scampi sauce) may just be the best in town. There's a
charming garden out back in summer. (Fodors)

Alla Frasca 14 Cannaregio 5176, corte della Carità (041 528 5433).
Vaporetto Fondamente Nove. Meals served noon-2.30pm, 7-10pm, Mon-Wed,
Fri-Sun. Closed 2 wks Jan. Average L55,000. CC This picturesque bacaro,
in a tiny square near fondamenta Nuove, was once the storeroom where Titian
kept his canvases and paints. New owners have transformed it from an ombra
pitstop into a bona fide restaurant. It's a charming place to eat -
especially in summer when tables are arranged under a vine-covered pergola;
in winter the pergola is canvas-covered. The only drawback is the cuisine,
which is variable. Stick with simple dishes such as the spaghetti with
vongole veraci (large clams) and avoid the more ambitious spiced-fish
secondi, which don't really cut the mustard. Monday is non-fish night, with
a selection of bolliti (boiled meats). (Time Out)

Anice Stellato 15 Cannaregio 3272, fondamenta della Sensa (041 720 744).
Vaporetto Guglie or Sant'Alvise. Meals served 12.30-2pm, 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun.
Closed 1wk Jan, 3wks Aug. Average L40,000. CC It only opened at the end
of 1999, but this nouveau-bacaro began to fill up almost from day one. The
reason is simple: the ambience is friendly, the food good; but above all,
this is one of the best bargains in town (pasta dishes at L10,000 or less
are almost unheard-of on the lagoon these days). A walk-around bar at the
entrance is always full of cichetari (locals doing some serious snacking);
tables take up two oak-beamed rooms around and behind, and spill out onto
the canalside walk in summer. The name means 'star anise', one of the spices
Rialto traders imported from the East; but spices have little place in the
kitchen, which turns out textbook renditions of Venetian classics such as
bigoli in salsa and seppie in nero con polenta. If you want to eat here,
book. (Time Out)
Hidden away on one of the most romantic fondamente of Cannaregio, this
family-run bacaro-trattoria is the place to stop for fairly priced,
great-tasting food in a part of town that doesn't teem with restaurants. The
space has plenty of character: narrow columns rise from the colorful
mosaic-like floor, dividing the room into cozy booths. The traditional
Venetian fare is enriched with such offerings as carpacci di pesce (thin
slices of raw tuna, swordfish, or salmon dressed with olive oil and fragrant
herbs), tagliatelle with king prawns and zucchini flowers, and several tasty
fish stews. (Fodors)

Antiche Cantine Ardenghi 16 Cannaregio 6369, calle della Testa (041 523
7691). Vaporetto Fondamente Nove. Meals served 8pm (single sitting)
Mon-Sat. Fixed price L80,000. No credit cards.
You don't just come here to eat; you come for the experience. An anonymous
doorway in a calle just west of Santi Giovanni e Paolo gives on to a long
bar and rustic dining room, decorated with vintage photographs of Venice.
Guests - who must book in advance - are plied with a succession of
delicious, utterly authentic seafood dishes, and as much (humble but
drinkable) house wine as they can take, followed by biscuits, grappa and
coffee - all for a fixed price of L80,000. The soundtrack ranges from opera
to Sinatra, and Michele, the garrulous owner, is liable to break into song
at the slightest excuse. (Time Out)

Bentigodi da Andrea Calesele, 1423 Cannaregio, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/716269 Under EUR13 to EUR18 Cannaregio Bentigodi is Venetian for
"you'll enjoy yourself," and such a jaunty name is well suited to this
trendy osteria, decorated with fishing-boat lamps and old-fashioned prints
on whitewashed walls. The menu includes tartare of tuna and swordfish,
steamed orata with green apple and lemon, masorini con alici e capperi
(local duck with anchovies and capers), and game in winter. Good homemade
desserts include cakes made with pumpkin and almond or chocolate and walnut,
a rich bread pudding, and simple panna cotta served with fresh fruit. No
credit cards. Closed Sun. and 3 wks in Jan. (Fodors)

Candela del Bomba Calle dell'Oca, off the Strada Nova, 4297 Cannaregio,
Venice, Italy Phone:
041/2411146 Under EUR13 Cannaregio This neighborhood bacaro with a tiny
inner garden and a long communal table is frequented by the gondolieri
operating the nearby traghetto. Choose from a selection of "green" cicheti,
made with seasonal produce, plus the usual Venetian fish snacks and
soppressa (fresh sausage). Closed Mon. and Aug. (Fodors)

Da Alberto 17 Cannaregio 5401, calle Giacinto Gallina (041 523 8153).
Vaporetto Fondamente Nove.
Meals served noon-3pm, 7-10pm Mon-Sat. Closed 1wk Jan, mid July-mid Aug.
Average L50,000. CC
This bacaro with charming trad décor built its reputation in the days of
Alberto himself, who has since moved on to the Innishark pub. The trio of
young guys that took over are running more of a restaurant with bar counter
than a bona fide bacaro. The wide menu ranges from Venetian specialities
such as granseola (spider crab) to more creative offerings - gnocchi with
baby squid in cinammon, or turbot with radicchio. A favourite with young
Venetians, Alberto's is always buzzing and packed - so book ahead if you
want to sit down and eat rather than just snacking at the bar. (Time Out)
An amicable trattoria that doubles as a bacaro, Alberto is always
packed with locals. The faux-antique decor makes the place look old, but
missing is the characteristic bacaro odor that comes from years of serving
wine. However, what you cannot smell, you see: heaping barrels and
demijohns full of vino da ombra. Vegetarians will appreciate the range of
nonmeat dishes on the menu. Pasta is made to order, and fish can be better
here than in most of the city center's pricier restaurants. (Fodors)

Da Bepi Salizzada del Pistor, off Campo Santi Apostoli, 4550 Phone:
041/5285031 Under EUR13 to EUR18 Cannaregio This neighborhood hangout
is run by an energetic mamma who, judging from the allegiance shown by local
regulars, must know the way to diners' hearts. At peak times you might have
to wait a few minutes before receiving any attention, but you'll be consoled
by the inviting odors wafting through the busy dining room. All dishes are
fresh and well prepared: try the tortelli con spinaci, patate, e ricotta
(ravioli filled with spinach, potato, and ricotta cheese) or, for a break
from the usual Venetian fare, the spiedini di pollo (chicken on skewers). No
CC. Closed Thurs. (Fodors)

Dalla Marisa 18 Cannaregio 652/B, fondamenta San Giobbe (041 720 211).
Vaporetto Tre Archi.
Meals served noon-3pm, 8-9pm Mon, Tue, Thur-Sat; 8-9pm Sun. Closed Aug.
Average L60,000. NOcc
Signora Marisa, the proud descendant of a dynasty of butchers, is a culinary
legend in Venice, with locals calling up days in advance to ask her to
prepare ancient recipes such as risotto con le secoe (risotto made with a
special cut of beef from around the spine). Given that this may not appeal
to BSE- worriers, the menu also features more standard meaty dishes. In
summer, tables spill out from the tiny interior on to the fondamenta
overlooking the busy Cannaregio canal. Book well ahead. (Time Out)

Enoteca Boldrin Salizada San Canzian, Cannaregio 5550, Venice, Italy
Phone: 041/5237859 Under EUR13 Cannaregio At this efficient, friendly
enoteca (wine shop and bar) and self-service restaurant, the food may be
cheap but it's always tasty, with both pasta dishes and meat and fish second
courses to choose from. The portions are copious, and if you don't feel like
a complete meal you can sample from a good selection of cicheti at the bar.
No credit cards. Closed Sun. (Fodors)

Fiaschetteria Toscana Campo San Giovanni Crisostomo, Cannaregio 5719,
Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5285281 EUR18 to EUR23 Cannaregio This warm restaurant in a former
Tuscan wine and oil storehouse merits a jaunt to Cannaregio for its cheerful
and courteous service, fine cucina, and art-filled walls. Highlights include
a delicate tagliolini neri con ragù d'astice (noodles colored with squid-ink
in a piquant lobster sauce), zabaglione, and a fine wine list. In warm
weather, the best tables are in the arbor on the square. AE, DC, MC, V.
Closed Tues. and 2 wks in July-Aug. No lunch Mon. (Fodors)

Il Sole Sulla Vecia Cavana Rio Terà SS. Apostoli, 4624 Cannaregio,
Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5287106 EUR18 to Over EUR23 Cannaregio Owner
Stefano Monti and his young, talented kitchen team create winning Italian
and Venetian dishes such as filetti di pesce a cottura differenziata (fish
fillet, cooked at the bottom and rare on top), tender baby cuttlefish, and,
among desserts, gelato al basilico (basil ice cream). The 18th-century
cavana (boathouse) maintains its original low columns, arches, and brick
walls, but has been decorated with contemporary flair. A large marble slab
by the entrance serves as a communal table for those who want to sample chic
cicheti. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and 2 wks in Jan. (Fodors)

La Colombina 20 Cannaregio 1828, campiello del Pegolotto (041 275 0622/fax
041 275 6794/www.lacolombina.it). Vaporetto San Marcuola. Meals served
12.30-2.30pm, 8.30pm-midnight Mon-Sat. Wine bar 12.30-3.30pm, 6.30pm-2am
Mon-Sat. Closed 2wks Jan, 2wks Aug. Average L45,000. CC Venice is a
small pond, and new arrivals are rare events. But it's not just novelty that
this sit-down wine bar ten minutes' walk from the station has going for it;
value for money and dedication to the cause of good food and wine are the
main attractions. The decor is upbeat osteria, the ambience young and
friendly. Alongside Venetian stalwarts such as spaghetti ai caporossoli
(with clams), chef Biba Candiani offers a range of succulent dishes with a
southern Italian slant. At the end of the single dining room is a long
wooden table groaning with bottles, which you choose from a reasonably
priced list. In summer tables fill the campiello outside. (Time Out)

La Colonna 21 Cannaregio 5329, campiello del Pestrin (041 522 9641).
Vaporetto Fondamente Nove.
Meals served 12.30-2.30pm, 7.30-10pm Tue-Sun. Closed Jan, 3 wks Aug.
Average L70,000. CC
On the main route between Rialto and fondamenta Nuove, this restaurant
deserves a mention as one of the few proper restaurants in Venice offering
high-grade cuisine at no more than average prices. The waiters are a
multicultural bunch, but the cooking is solidly (though creatively)
Venetian, with one or two meaty excursions. There are some light touches - a
salad of funghi porcini, tiny prawns and wild salad greens, for example -
alongside old favourites such as seppie alla veneziana (cuttlefish cooked in
onion and wine). The ambience is softly lit and romantic; a line of backlit
Murano glass fragments just below the ceiling beams gives the traditional
decor an exotic twist. (Time Out)

Osteria Ca'D'Oro Calle del Pistor, 3912 Cannaregio, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5285324 Under EUR13 Cannaregio Known commonly as La Vedova (the
Widow), this warm osteria not far from the Ca' d'Oro was opened as a low-key
bacaro by the owner's great-grandparents. The high quality of the food is
due to the energetic Widow -- the owner's mother -- whose presence is still
felt even though she's long gone. A rough Venetian floor, old marble
counter, and long tables invite conviviality. Cicheti include tender seppie
roste (grilled cuttlefish), polpette (meatballs), and baccalà mantecato. The
house winter pasta is the pastisso de radicio rosso (lasagna with sausage,
radicchio, and béchamel sauce). In the spring, the chef switches to pastisso
de asparagi (with asparagus). No credit cards. Closed Thurs. Aug. 1st wk in
Sept. and 2 wks after Carnevale. (Fodors)

Tiziano Salizzada San Giovanni Crisostomo, 5747 Phone: 041/5235544
Under EUR13 Cannaregio A handy place for a quick detour and snack, this
tavola calda (snack bar) sells pizza by the meter, which you eat standing up
at the counter or perched on a stool. At lunchtime you can also order from
the variety of pasta dishes, and sandwiches are always on offer if you are
in need of refueling in between meals. No credit cards. (Fodors)

Vini da Gigio 22 Cannaregio 3628A, fondamenta San Felice (041 528 5140/fax
041 522 8597). Vaporetto Ca' d'Oro. Meals served noon-2.30pm,
7.30-10.30pm Tue-Sun. Closed 3wks Jan-Feb, 3wks Aug-Sept. Average L60k CC
It's no longer any secret that this is one of the best-value restaurants in
Venice , so make sure you book. Gigio is strong on Venetian antipasti such
as baccalà mantecato (creamed stockfish) or sarde in saor (marinated
sardines), and difficult-to-find secondi such as anguilla alla griglia
(grilled eel); there are also a number of good meat and game options. As the
name suggests, wine is another forte - the cantina even runs to bottles from
Australia and South Africa, and there is always a good by-the-glass
selection. The only drawback is the excruciatingly slow service; allow at
least two hours for a complete meal. (Time Out)
A quaint, friendly, family-run trattoria on the quay side of a canal
just off the Strada Nuova, da Gigio is very popular with Venetians and other
visiting Italians who appreciate the affable service; well-prepared homemade
pasta, fish, and meat dishes; and imaginative and varied cellar and
good-quality draft wine. It's good, too, for a cheap, simple lunch at tables
in the bar. The frittura mista is so light it melts in your mouth. (Fodors)


San Marco

Al Bacareto 1 San Marco 3447, calle delle Botteghe (041 528 9336).
Vaporetto Sant'Angelo or San Samuele. Meals served noon-3pm, 7-10.30pm
Mon-Fri; noon-3pm Sat. Closed Aug. Average L65,000. CC Friendly,
family-run trattoria near the Palazzo Grassi museum, with a small terrace in
summer, and a lively bar packed with locals downing an ombra and sampling
the cicheti. The spaghetti con le seppie (cooked in squid ink) is excellent.
(Time Out)

Al Volto Calle Cavalli, 4081 San Marco, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5228945
Under EUR13 San Marco
Dark and with a ceiling lined with wine-bottle labels, the Volto has the
atmosphere of a grotto or cellar, despite its location a stone's throw from
the Rialto bridge. Ombre and appetizing cicheti are to be sampled until 10
PM, and at lunchtime the small kitchen prepares pasta and risotti made to
order, vegetables done many ways, and more. Closed Sun. (Fodors)

Le Bistrot de Venise 3 San Marco 4685, calle dei Fabbri (041 523 6651/
). Vaporetto Rialto. Meals served
noon-0.45am daily. Average L65,000. Credit MC, V. A young and energetic
team set up this alternative eaterie a few years back. It's aimed at
tourists, but intelligently so; the menu offers revivals of near- forgotten
Veneto peasant dishes such as cisame di pesse quale tu voy (sweet and sour
sardines) or recipes gleaned from ancient manuscripts. As if this were not
enough, the Bistrot also has a busy programme of concerts, poetry readings
and art exhibitions. Open for late dining (a rarity in Venice). (Time
Out)

Vini da Arturo 4 San Marco 3656, calle degli Assassini (041 528 6974).
Vaporetto Rialto or Sant'Angelo. Meals served 12.30-2.30pm, 7.30-11pm
Mon-Sat. Closed 2wks after carnevale, Aug. Average L100,000. NoCC This
tiny place just north of La Fenice is a well-kept secret among Venetian
gastronomes. There's not a whiff of fish on the menu, which features the
best fillet steak on the lagoon, as well as a few less carnivorous options -
including some creative salad tasters, served as an antipasto. For dessert,
try the creamy tiramisù. (Time Out)
On the Calle degli Assassini -- a name common to several Venetian
streets and a reminder of the centuries gone by when violence and betrayal
were everyday occurrences -- this tiny restaurant can offer a most peaceful
and enjoyable evening. It has the distinction (in Venice) of not serving
seafood. Instead, you'll choose from among fresh vegetable and salad dishes;
tasty, tender, and generous meat courses, including the delicately pungent
braciola alla veneziana (pork chop schnitzel with vinegar); and an
authentic, creamy homemade tiramisù to finish. Reservations essential.
(Fodors)


Dorsoduro

Ai Quatro Feri 28 Dorsoduro 2754, calle lunga San Barnaba (041 520 6978).
Vaporetto Ca' Rezzonico.
Meals served noon-2.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm, Mon-Sat. Closed 1wk Jan, June.
Average L50,000. Although the Quatro Feri only opened in 1998, the keen
young owners have already carved out a niche for themselves on the local
dining scene. Classic antipasti such as sarde in saor and insalata di polpo
(octopus salad) are followed by a range of creative pasta dishes (try the
gnocchi di zucca con gamberoni e amorini - pumpkin gnocchi with king prawns
and turnip heads). The excellent desserts are all homemade, and a good
selection of local wines includes a few more challenging vintages. (Time
Out)
The paper tablecloths and cozy, laid-back ambience are all part of this
small restaurant's charm. The menu varies according to what's fresh that
day; imaginative combinations of ingredients in the primi -- herring and
sweet peppers, broccoli and giant shrimp (with pumpkin gnocchi), salmon and
radicchio -- are the norm. A meal here followed by after-dinner drinks at
Campo Santa Margherita, a five-minute walk away, makes for a lovely evening.
The kitchen closes early on weekdays. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and June.
(Fodors)

Ai Gondolieri Fondamenta Zorzi Bragadin, 366 Phone: 041/5286396 EUR18 to
EUR23 Dorsoduro This is the place for those who appreciate meat and the
food of the mainland, and despite the tourist-trap name, it's a favorite
with Venetians. Feast on filetto di maiale con castraure (pork fillet with
baby artichokes), duck breast with apple and sweet onion, or on more
traditional dishes from the Veneto hills such as horse meat and game,
gnocchi and polenta. The wine list is above average in quality and variety.
AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Tues. (Fodors)

Alla Dona Onesta Ponte de la Dona Onesta, 3922 Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy
Phone: 041/710586 Under EUR13 Dorsoduro The virtue of the "Honest Woman"
is still maintained by the owners of this small, neat trattoria perched
along the rio. Through the glass door you'll see a well-kept old structure
with no frills -- the style is dark-brown wooden chairs and white
tablecloths. The menu posted outside offers a reasonable choice of staple
Italian pasta dishes, fish, and meat. Few tourists stop here, and the little
English you'll hear is likely to be a conversation among professors of the
nearby Università Ca' Foscari, who are lunchtime regulars. AE, DC, MC, V.
(Fodors)

Anzolo Raffael Campo Anzolo Rafael, 1722 Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5237456 Under EUR13 to EUR18 Dorsoduro A long way from the madding
crowd, this trattoria has a clientele evenly divided between locals and
visitors, all eager to eat something simple and authentic at a fraction of
the price of comparable Venetian restaurants. Take a seat at a wooden table
in the no-nonsense back room and listen to the kind signora (her husband is
a few steps away in the kitchen) recite the short menu. Choose from two
pastas or a fish soup, two vegetable side dishes, and a main course of fish,
either grilled or fried. Plan on dessert elsewhere -- the signore doesn't
make sweets. No credit cards. Closed Mon.-Tues. (Fodors)

Cantinone Fondamenta Nani, 992 Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5230034 Under EUR13 Dorsoduro A beautiful 19th-century osteria
opposite the squero (gondola repair shop) of San Trovaso, this bacaro has
original furnishings and one of the best wine cellars in town. No cicheti
are offered here, but you won't regret trying one of the huge panini
(sandwiches) filled with first-rate cheeses and cured pork. It also serves
warm crostini (toasted bread) topped with tasty spreads like tuna and onion
or egg and mushrooms. Closed Sun. after 2 PM and 2 in wks Aug. (Fodors)

Cantinone Storico Fondamenta di Ca' Bragadin, Dorsoduro 660/1, Venice,
Italy Phone: 041/5239577 EUR13 to EUR18 Dorsoduro On a quiet, romantic
canal near the Accademia, this comfortable trattoria with tables alfresco
serves well-prepared specialties such as risotto terra mare (with seafood,
vegetables, and porcini mushrooms) and tagliolini alla granseola (narrow
fettuccine-shape pasta with crab sauce). Heavily advertised, the Cantinone
draws mostly tourists, yet it's hard to beat the good location, and the
prices are reasonable. The house wines are good. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.
and 2 wks mid-Nov. (Fodors)

L'Incontro 29 Dorsoduro 3062, rio terà Canal (041 522 2404). Vaporetto Ca'
Rezzonico.
Meals served 7.30-10.30pm Tue; 12.30-2.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Sun. Closed
Jan, 2wks Aug. Average L60k CC Meaty restaurants are rare enough in
Venice, but L'Incontro is unique: it's run by a great Sardinian chef who
specialises in meat dishes from his Mediterranean island such as porceddu
arrosto (roast suckling pig). Pasta provides relief from the beast in
creations such as gnocchi with pecorino cheese and tagliolini in a creamy
rucola sauce. The steaks - especially the tagliata di manzo - are out of
this world, and the cellar has some interesting Sardinian vintages. Grab a
table on the sunny terrace in summer, or enjoy the cosy rustic interior in
winter. (Time Out)
This trattoria between San Barnaba and Campo Santa Margherita has a
faithful clientele attracted by flavorful Sardinian cucina and friendly
service. Menu choices include freshly made pastas, juicy steaks, wild duck,
boar, and (with advance notice) roast suckling pig. (Fodors)

Osteria Da Toni Fondamenta San Basilio, 1642 Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy
Phone: 041/5286899 Under EUR13 Dorsoduro This unpretentious bar-bacaro
sits on the western edge of the Zattere promenade, near a pretty and breezy
side canal. It caters mainly to workers from the harbor over the bridge, and
you might luck into a dish of homemade lasagna if you show up during lunch
hours. Closed Mon. and 3 wks Aug.-Sept. (Fodors)

Randon Enoteca * Campo San Barnaba, (not far from the Accademia Gallery)
hone: 041/5224410 Under EUR13 Dorsoduro If you only visit one enoteca
in Venice, make it Enoteca Randon, arguably the best wine bar in town, with
tables outside in summer and a good, informal restaurant open for dinner.
The decor is modern but warm and comfortable, and behind the counter you can
see the cooks at work in the kitchen. They might be preparing old Venetian
favorites such as baked sardines or saor, but also lasagna, gnocchi ai
cinque formaggi (in a rich cheese sauce), lamb on skewers, and home-smoked
fish. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch Mon. (Fodors)

Ristorante Alle Zattere Zattere, 795 Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5204224 Under EUR13 Dorsoduro This is a perfect spot on a summer
evening to watch the passeggiata of gondolas, rowboats, and vaporetti, as
it's one of the few restaurants with a terrace that overlooks the Canale
della Giudecca. The fare is rather predictable -- spaghetti alle vongole
(with clams), seppie in tecia, or fegato alla veneziana -- but you might be
happy with a plain but appetizing pizza (served also at lunch) in view of
the marvelous backdrop. MC, V. Closed Tues. and 4-6 wks Nov.-Dec. (Fodors)
Zattere, 795 Dorsoduro, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5204224 Under EUR13

San Trovaso (getting touristy and bad?) Fondamenta Priuli, Dorsoduro
1016, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5203703 Under EUR13 Dorsoduro A wide
choice of Venetian dishes served in robust portions, economical prix-fixe
menus at both lunch and dinner, pizzas, and house wine by the glass or
pitcher keep this two-floor, no-nonsense tavern abuzz with young Venetians
and budget-conscious visitors in the know. It's always packed, and table
turnover is fast. Not far from the Gallerie dell'Accademia, this is a good
place to slip into while sightseeing in Dorsoduro, or for an early evening
aperitif and some cicheti. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon., wk before Christmas
and 1st wk in Aug. (Fodors)


Castello

Aciugheta Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4357 Castello, Venice, Italy
Under EUR13 Castello A mediocre pizzeria-trattoria, Aciugheta (Tiny
Anchovy) leads a secret life as an enoteca, with some of the best bottles in
town. Show up in the late afternoon and let wine expert Gianni Bonaccorsi
guide you. Cicheti and a variety of other tasty bites -- including tiny
pizzas, stuffed red peppers, and a fine selection of cheeses -- will keep
you from going hungry between sips. (Fodors)

Alla Rivetta 5 Castello 4625, ponte San Provolo (041 528 7302). Vaporetto
San Zaccaria. Meals served 11am-11pm Tue-Sun. Closed mid July-mid Aug.
Average L50,000. On an ancient bridge right behind the Hotel Danieli, the
Rivetta has managed to preserve its neighbourhood trattoria credentials -
and prices - despite the scores of tourists who troop in and out each day.
At the bar, owner Stefano serves creamy polenta con baccalà for little old
ladies to take home for lunch. Gondoliers pile in for a noisy, boozy midday
meal, which is likely to feature an unbeatable fritto misto. (Time Out)

Alle Testiere 6 Castello 5801, calle del Mondo Novo (041 522 7220).
Vaporetto Rialto. Meals served noon-2pm, 7-10.30pm Mon-Sat. Closed 2wks
Jan, last week July, 3wks Aug. Average L75,000. CC This tiny restaurant
is moving into the major league (so are the prices). There are so few seats
that they do two sittings each evening; booking for the later one (at 9pm)
will ensure a more relaxed meal. Bruno, the cook, does creative variations
on Venetian seafood, many involving spices such as ginger or coriander;
sommelier Luca guides diners around a small but well-chosen wine list.
(Time Out)

Al Mascaron 7 Castello 5225, calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa (041 522
5995). Vaporetto Rialto. Meals served noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon-Sat. Closed
mid Dec-mid Jan. Average L70,000. No credit cards. Lively and funky, the
Mascaron is still a worthwhile experience if you've never been there before;
but for old Venice hands, the no-frills seafood cooking and
all-crowd-in-together ambience is beginning to feel a little tired, and the
prices a little steep. The counter still groans with seafood antipasti,
primi such as spaghetti con nero di seppie (with squid ink) are still simple
and filling, and the service is still of the matey, hit-and-miss school.
Booking is a must unless you come very early or very late. (Time Out)
The convivial, crowded Al Mascaron, with its paper tablecloths and
informal ambience, is a regular stop for Venetians who drop in to gossip,
drink, play cards, and eat cicheti at the bar. You can bet on delicious
seafood, pastas, risottos, and seafood salads. A popular fish dish is the
baccalà alla Veneziana (codfish with raisins, pine nuts, and cinnamon). A
few doors down the calle (at No. 5183) is Mascareta, a pleasant bacaro under
the same ownership. No credit cards. Closed Sun. and mid-Dec.-mid-Jan.
(Fodors)

Antica Trattoria Bandierette 8 Castello 6671, barbaria de le Tole (041
522 0619/ www.elmoro.com/bandierette.htm). Vaporetto Ospedale. Meals
served noon-2pm, 7-10pm Mon, Tue, Thur-Sat; noon-2pm Wed. Closed 2wks Aug.
Average L50,000. CC The decor leaves a little to be desired, but the
locals who cram into this busy trattoria between Santi Giovanni e Paolo and
San Francesco don't come for decor: they come for the great, reasonably
priced seafood cooking and the friendly service. Among the primi, the
tagliatelle with scampi and spinach, or with baby squid and asparagus, are
especially good. (Time Out)

Corte Sconta 9 Castello 3886, calle del Pestrin (041 522 7024). Vaporetto
San Zaccaria or Arsenale.
Meals served noon-3.30pm, 6-10pm Tue-Sat. Closed Jan, mid July-mid Aug.
Average L80,000. CC Claudio Proietto's trailblazing seafood restaurant in
the eastern reaches of Castello is now such a firm favourite on the
well-informed tourist circuit that it is usually a good idea to book several
days in advance. The main act is an endless procession of seafood antipasti;
the day's catch might include canoce (mantis shrimps), garusoli
(sea-snails), or canestrelli (baby scallop shells). The pasta is homemade,
and the warm zabaione dessert is a delight. Decor is of the rustic trat
variety, the ambience loud and friendly. In summer, try to secure one of the
tables in the pretty vine-covered courtyard. (Time Out)

Dal Pampo (Osteria Sant'Elena) 10 Sant'Elena, calle Generale Chinotto 24
(041 520 ). Vaporetto Sant'Elena. Meals served
noon-2.30pm, 7.30-9pm Mon-Wed, Fri-Sun. Closed Christmas, 1wk May, 1wk Aug.
Average L40,000. CC Right at the end of Venice - the last vaporetto stop
before the Lido - in the working-class neighbourhood of Sant'Elena, this is
home cooking at its best. Officially called the 'Osteria Sant'Elena' but
known to everyone as Dal Pampo - 'Pampo's Place' - after the jolly owner, it
is right by the football stadium - so it can be difficult to get a table on
the Sundays when Venice are playing at home. A good place to escape for
lunch when visiting the Art Biennale in the nearby Giardini. (Time Out)

Da Bruno Calle del Paradiso, 5731 Castello, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5221480 EUR13 to EUR23 Castello A country taverna (tavern) in the
center of Venice, this popular restaurant grills its meat over an open fire.
First, though, don't overlook the cicheti, such as the paper-thin prosciutto
wrapped around grissini (thin bread sticks), at the counter. As for main
courses, you can take your pick from such Italian specialties as fillet of
beef with pepper sauce or veal with wild mushrooms. Fish fans might
gravitate toward the squid with polenta, scampi, or calamari. AE, DC, MC, V.
(Fodors)

Da Dante Alle Alpi Corte Nova, near the Scuola di San Giorgio degli
Schiavoni, 2877 Phone: 041/5285163 Under EUR13 Castello A little oasis
thriving in the deserted lands of Castello, this bacaro has the usual fish
cicheti, including folpetti consi (with olive oil, parsley, and boiled
potatoes). Closed Sun. (Fodors)

Da Remigio 11 Castello 3416, ponte dei Greci (041 523 0089). Vaporetto
San Zaccaria.
Meals served 12.30-2.30pm Mon;12.30-2.30pm, 7.30-10pm Wed-Sun. Closed
xmas-Jan, 2wks July-Aug. Avg L70 CC Remigio is held in high esteem by
local gourmets, who are pretty much unanimous that there are few better
addresses for fresh fish. This means, though, that it can be extremely
difficult to get a table, despite the out-of-the-way location between San
Marco and the Arsenale. The décor is glaringly orange and the acoustics are
pretty awful, but any lack of ambience is easily compensated for by
delicious antipasti such as grilled cape longhe (razor shells), followed by
filling pasta dishes and a range of squeaky-fresh, grilled-fish secondi.
(Time Out)
This popular, family-run local trattoria near San Giorgio dei Greci
turns out reliable and tasty fish and a few meat dishes. Try the gnocchetti
alla pescatora or the cannolicchi alla griglia (grilled shellfish). It's the
ideal place to enjoy an informal meal in the company of hungry, chatty
Venetians. Reservations essential (Fodors)

Dai Tosi Seco Marina, 738 Castello, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5237102
Under EUR13
Castello Finding a restaurant in Castello Basso can be difficult; this
neighborhood trattoria is the only fairly priced place near San Pietro di
Castello. The red, hand-painted sign above the window reflects the homey
interior and also the cheerfulness of service: tosi refers to the "young
lads" on the waitstaff, as opposed to the grumpy, aging career waiters you
might encounter elsewhere. Step inside to sample a dish of pasta with
seafood, or tossed with fresh veggies, and to taste some well-prepared
cicheti. In the evening and on Thursday at lunch you can also opt for pizza;
on Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday evenings there's only pizza. No credit
cards. Closed Wed. and 2-3 wks in Aug. (Fodors)

La Mascareta Calle Lunga Santa Maria Formosa, 5183 Castello Phone:
041/5230744 Under EUR13 Castello An offspring of the extremely popular
Al Mascaron, the Mascareta offers refined cicheti and a selection of cured
pork and cheeses, washed down with quality ombre like Chardonnay Friuliano.
This is one of the prettiest bacari in town, and one of the very few that
stay open after midnight. Closed Sun. and over Christmas. (Fodors)

Osteria Al Portego Calle della Malvasia, 6015 Castello, Venice, Italy
Phone: 041/5229038
Under EUR13 Castello At this bacaro, located on a calle where bacari
have thrived for centuries, the emphasis is more on food than on wine.
Regulars swear by the gelatinous nervetti (veal knee cartilage) served with
beans and spienza (beef spleen), but you might take their word for it and
turn your attention to the deep-fried crab claws, folpetti, or hard-boiled
eggs with pickles and anchovies. A big pot of risotto is made once or twice
a day and served on the spot. No credit cards. June-Sept., closed weekends;
Oct.-May, closed Sun., no dinner Sat. closed over Christmas, 2 wks in June,
and 2 wks in Aug. (Fodors)

Trattoria dai Tosi 12 Castello 738, secco Marina (041 523 7102).
Vaporetto Giardini. Meals served noon-2pm, 7-9.30pm Mon, Tue, Thur-Sun.
Closed 2wks Aug. Average L45,000. CC In one of Venice's most working-class
areas, in a street festooned with washing and punctuated by children's
bicycles, this restaurant-pizzeria is a big hit with local families, and a
welcome retreat to normality for visitors to the nearby Biennale dell'Arte.
The cuisine is humble but filling, the pizzas are tasty (try the Gregory
Speck - speck is Tyrolean ham), and you can round the meal off nicely with a
killer sgropin (a post-prandial refresher made with lemon sorbet, vodka and
prosecco). (Time Out)


La Giudecca & San Giorgio

Ai Tre Scaini 30 Giudecca 53C, calle Michelangelo (041 522 4790/fax 041
277 5176). Vaporetto Zitelle. Meals served 1-2.30pm, 6-9.30pm Mon-Wed,
Fri-Sun; 1-2.30pm Thur. Closed 2wks Aug. Average L45,000. CC Most cheaper
restaurants on the Giudecca are pizzerias, but this friendly trattoria
tucked down an alleyway just past the Redentore church does a good line in
calorific working lunches. If you arrive after the noon-time rush, its a
good place to relax over some no-frills home cooking. On Sundays they often
take a culinary theme - such as goose - and build a whole menu around it.
(Time Out)

Altanella 31 Giudecca 268, calle delle Erbe (041 522 7780). Vaporetto
Sant'Eufemia or Redentore.
Meals served 12.30-2pm, 7.30-9pm Wed-Sun. Closed 6 Jan-carnevale, 1wk Aug.
Average L70,000. No credit cards. The canalside terrace of this
family-run trattoria on the Giudecca is one of the best places for an al
fresco meal in Venice, and the service is both friendly and professional.
The cuisine is typically Venetian; the risotto di gò (goby - a fish prized
only around Venice and in the Black Sea) is good, as is the surprisingly
light frittura di pesce. Go for the house white, which is as quaffable as
any of the bottles on offer. It's cash only, but the prices are reasonable
by Venetian standards. Altanella is a good place to bring that special
person - but book ahead. (Time Out)
This Giudecca institution facing a large canal is the right place to
taste some of the strange-looking fish sold at the stalls in the Rialto's
pescheria (fish market). The Altanella is a favorite among locals, although
a trilingual menu makes it clear that visitors find their way here as well.
Start with a salad of folpetti, followed by a creamy risotto or gnocchi with
a seppie (cuttlefish) sauce. Secondi include grilled or deep-fried fish, or
seppie in umido (in a stew with its black ink and a dash of tomato sauce),
served with polenta. Wine is not this rustic place's strong suit. (vaporetto
Line 82, Redentore or Palanca stops). No credit cards. Closed Mon.-Tues., 2
wks in Aug., and 3 last wks in Jan. (Fodors)


Harry's Dolci 32 Giudecca 773, fondamenta San Biagio (041 522 4844/fax
041 522 2322). Vaporetto Sant'Eufemia. Meals served noon-3pm, 7-11pm Mon,
Wed-Sun. Closed Nov-Mar. Average L110,000. CC Arrigo Cipriani's second
Venetian stronghold, towards the western end of the Giudecca, is only open
from April to October, when the weather allows diners to enjoy the huge
terrace with stupendous views across the Giudecca Canal. The cuisine is
supposedly lighter and more summery that that on offer at Harry's Bar, but
in practice many dishes are identical, and just as competently prepared.
What changes is the price: the cannelloni alla piemontese, for example, cost
L30,000 here, L69,000 at the mothership. A selection of seasonally changing
fixed-price menus offers an even greater saving. Come prepared for
mosquitoes on summer evenings. (Time Out)

Mistrà 34 Giudecca 212A (041 522 0743). Vaporetto Redentore.
Noon-3.30pm Mon, noon-3.30pm, 7.30-10.30pm Wed-Sun. Closed Jan. Average
L50,000. CC The unvisited southern side of the Giudecca is about as far as
you can get from tourist Venice. Amidst a sprawl of boatyards stands a plain
white building; an outside staircase leads up to this first-floor trattoria
with spectacular views over the lagoon. Once patronised exclusively by local
shipwrights and gondola makers, Mistrà has become a word-of-mouth success
among local gourmets for its excellent fish menu and range of Ligurian
specialities; game-based secondi can be sampled too, if ordered in advance.
(Time Out)


Lido

Al Vecio Cantier Via della Droma 76, Lido, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5268130 EUR13 to EUR18 Lido The wild scenery, with intersecting
canals and reeds, contributes to the appeal of one of the trendiest places
on the Lido, always filled to the gills during the film festival. There's
efficient cicheti service, but the restaurant deserves a longer visit for a
relaxing meal in the best Venetian tradition: whipped baccalà with polenta
and tagliolini con gamberetti e carciofi (with shrimp and artichokes) in
spring. Homemade desserts include lemon and almond tarts, or you can dip
cookies in a glass of vino passito, a dessert wine. Outside dining is in a
pretty garden. (vaporetto Lines 1, 6, 14, 51/52, or 82, Lido stop; then bus
Line B to the Alberoni). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. No lunch Tues., Nov., or
Jan. (Fodors)

Bar Trento Via Sandro Gallo 82, Lido, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/5265960
Under EUR13 Lido This neat, old-style osteria 10 minutes from Piazzale
Santa Maria Elisabetta has a soft spot for meat and innards (one of the
owners was a bechèr, or butcher). Lunch is the only meal served, but it
stays open from 8 to 8 for ombre and cicheti. Descriptions of tasty snacks
from century-old recipes are left out, as they might put off nonnatives.
More recognizable options include be baccalà alla vicentina (stewed with
onion, milk, and Parmesan); pasta with seafood; and several seasonal
risottos. As a secondo, fish can be
cooked any way you want. Don't be suspicious of the surprisingly low prices:
you are far enough away from San Marco's bells. (vaporetto Line 1, 6, 14,
51/52, or 82, Lido stop). No credit cards. Closed Sun. No dinner except
during Biennale. (Fodors)

Le Garzette Lungomare Alberoni 32, Lido, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/731078
EUR13 toEUR18 Lido A small, family-run trattoria inside the agriturismo
of the same name, Le Garzette cooks very fresh fish, homegrown vegetables,
and home-raised poultry, including duck. Meals are served to nonboarders on
Friday evenings and weekends. You won't find anything new here, but
everything tastes genuine and the staff won't look down on you if you are
wearing shorts. (vaporetto Lines 1, 6, 14, 51/52, or 82, Lido stop).
Reservations essential. No credit cards. Closed Dec.-Feb. No lunch weekdays.
(Fodors)

Trattoria Favorita Via Francesco Duodo 33, Lido, Venice, Italy Phone:
041/5261626 EUR13 to EUR23 Lido This neighborhood eatery has been in
the same family's hands since the 1920s and offers you the choice between a
wood-beamed dining room and a vine-covered garden. Seafood is the specialty,
always fresh and lovingly prepared; you won't go wrong ordering the
tagliolini with shrimp and zucchini or the divine gnocchi con granseola.
Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Mon. and mid-Jan.-mid-Feb. No
lunch Tues. (Fodors)


The Lagoon

Ai Frati Fondamenta Sebastiano Venier 4, Murano, Venice, Italy Phone:
EUR13 to EUR18 Murano A walk along the Fondamenta dei Vetrai brings you
to the large iron bridge spanning Murano's Grand Canal; down to the left,
hanging over the Canale degli Angeli, is the attractive terrace of Ai Frati.
As elsewhere in Venice, the key word here is fish, prepared any way you
want. The risottos are nicely done, and if you want to taste a famous dish
from Murano, ask ahead for the bisatto sull'ara, a local variety of fleshy
eel traditionally cooked on a bed of bay leaves. (vaporetto Line 12, 13, 23,
41/42, or 61/62, Venier stop). V. Closed Thurs. and Feb. No dinner.
(Fodors)

Al Gatto Nero 35 Burano, fondamenta della Giudecca 88 (041 730 120/fax
041 735 570/www.gattonero.com). Meals served noon-3pm, 7-9pm Tue-Sun.
Closed 1wk Jan, Nov. Average L65,000. CC. Most guidebooks point
visitors to the lace-making island of Burano towards the more famous Da
Romano or Il Pescatore-Da Paolo, both in the brightly painted main square.
But a better-value meal is to be had by wandering past the souvenir stalls,
through the backstreets, to this friendly trattoria across a canal from the
fish market. It's a charming, photogenic place for an al fresco lunch; the
service is attentive, and there's a wonderfully creamy risotto di pesce.
(Time Out)
Even cats know that this restaurant dedicated to one of their own
offers the best fish on the island. The "Black Cat" has a vivid blue facade
that stands out among the low, brightly colored buildings that animate the
picturesque Fondamenta della Giudecca, where in warm weather amateur
painters set up their easels. Anything you order will taste fresh and
genuine, from sweet gamberetti (shrimp) to tender folpetti. The spaghetti
alla scogliera comes in a seafood sauce with cherry tomatoes; the fritto
misto (fish fry) is outstanding for its lightness and variety of fish.
(vaporetto Line 12, Burano stop). (Fodors)

Antica Trattoria Riva Longa 20, Murano, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/739610
Under EUR13 to EUR18 Murano This LUNCH-ONLY trattoria can be easily
spotted by the bright red walls close to the Grand Canal on the island of
Murano. For company you'll probably find local glass workers with a caffè
corretto con grappa (espresso with grappa) in front of them. If it's more
solid nourishment you're after, go for the freshly grilled fish or the
seppie in tecia, served in the rear garden. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sat. and
Feb. No dinner. (Fodors)

Busa alla Torre 36 Murano, campo Santo Stefano 3 (041 739 662). Vaporetto
Faro. Meals served noon-3.30pm daily. Average L65,000. CC This is
Murano's ultimate gastronomic stop-off, and a perfect place for regaining
your strength after a bout of resisting the hard sell at the island's many
glass workshops. In summer - which, when the elements oblige, can stretch
from March to November - tables spill out into a pretty square opposite the
church of San Pietro Martire. The service is deft and professional; the
cuisine is reliable, no-frills seafood cooking; the excellent primi go from
the classic spaghetti alla busara (with anchovies and onions) to homemade
ravioli di pesce. The jovial owner, Lele, is a giant of a man, and a real
character. Note the lunch-only opening. (Time Out)
A pretty square with olive trees and a well sets the stage for Da Lele,
a favorite of the Muranese. On the ground floor of a dark-red building with
a loggia, the restaurant stretches out on the campo, where you eat in the
shade of large umbrellas. Check the blackboard for such daily specials as
antipasto Busa, with granseola and garusoli; bavette alla busara (flat
spaghetti with a hot prawn and tomato sauce); and baked rombo or branzino
with potato. Homemade cookies are served with fragolino, a sweet, sparkling
wine redolent of strawberries. (vaporetto Line 12, 13, 23, 41/42, or 61/62,
Faro stop). NO DINNER. (Fodors)

Valmarana Fondamenta Navagero 31, Murano, Venice, Italy Phone: 041/739313
EUR13 to EUR23 Murano This is the most upscale restaurant on the island,
housed in a palace on the fondamenta (street) across from the Museo
Vetrario. Stuccoed walls and glass chandeliers complement well-appointed
tables, and although the menu contains no surprises, the cuisine is more
refined than at other places on Murano. Try the baked sea scallops or crab
with fresh herbs, or the rich risotto alla pescatora, containing all kinds
of fish. In warm weather, reserve a table in the back garden or on the
terrace overlooking the canal; inside, there's a no-smoking room. (vaporetto
Line 12, 13, 23, 41/42, or 61/62, Navagero stop). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed 3
wks in Jan. No dinner. (Fodors)

Ristorante da Bruno, on Calle del Paradiso, in Castello ( halfway between
the Rialto and St Mark's).
Elio owns and runs it, his son Stefano waits tables, Stefano's wife Pao,
works in the kitchen, and the rest of the staff is semi-family. And one of
the best restaurtants in Venice without the expensive trappings of the more
famous places. It is the lunchtime ( under contract) feeding place for the
employees of a nearby bank they eat in a back room), and a frequent lunch
hangout for local gondoliere. Nice people, nice food, lovely rooms.
But there will be tourists -- it is Venice.
rjf

"footman" wrote in message
k...
Hi

We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week.
Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual
tourist traps?

cheers

Laurence

Ristorante da Bruno, on Calle del Paradiso, in Castello ( halfway between
the Rialto and St Mark's).
Elio owns and runs it, his son Stefano waits tables, Stefano's wife Pao,
works in the kitchen, and the rest of the staff is semi-family. And one of
the best restaurtants in Venice without the expensive trappings of the more
famous places. It is the lunchtime ( under contract) feeding place for the
employees of a nearby bank they eat in a back room), and a frequent lunch
hangout for local gondoliere. Nice people, nice food, lovely rooms.
But there will be tourists -- it is Venice.
rjf

"footman" wrote in message
k...
Hi

We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week.
Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual
tourist traps?

cheers

Laurence

thanks for the many replies......I hope we'll find time for sightseeing!

Laurence
"footman" wrote in message
k...
Hi

We are having a long weekend in Venice end of next week.
Has anyone any recomendations for family run places rather than the usual
tourist traps?

cheers

Laurence