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Foothills, lake shore Iznik
x0x Foothills, lake shore Iznik
By Erdal Yazici At a distance of a few kilometres away from the south bank of Lake Iznik, there are several villages, arrayed in rows. The villages have been watching the lake for centuries, their backs against the foothills of the mountains. The breathe in the scent of the lake between linden trees, poplars, chestnut trees and olive groves. They live in perfect harmony with nature on the foothills of Katirli Mountain. In contrast to the shore dwellers of nowadays, they put a certain distance between themselves and Lake Iznik. They have left the most fertile earth and the virgin shores of the lake to settlers of the present day. It seems as if they are concealing themselves under a green cover. They are very nearby, but it is as though they have been very distant for many years. In the villages of Karsak, Gemic and Gurle streams murmur, springs gush out the earth, falcons and hawks fly in the sky and the traces of past centuries can be discerned in the streets. These villages embrace the mountain and the lake, half way between Gemlik and Orhangazi. We pass by them at high speed when travelling between the metropolises, without noticing their beauty. EACH SEASON HAS A DIFFERENT SCENT IN KARSAK Passing through Gemlik or Orhangazi, if we turn onto the highway near the south shore of the lake, one or two kilometres after the signpost to Karsak, we reach the first village on the foothills of Mount Katirli. When you cross the main street, lined with buildings that have stood for centuries, you arrive at a fountain with coffee houses around it. With each visit, it gets more enjoyable to chat here. There are lots of things to sha past recollections, legends, politics, the economy, the pleasure of a newborn grandchild. We learn that Asiye Nine, whom we remember for her hospitality on our previous visits, has passed away. She was 80 years old, but she lived on her own despite her age. She used to recycle what she obtained from nature. Now, images of Asiye Nine are frozen like filmstrips. She used to prepare her soap from the olive oil she pressed. Her cauldron remains in the same place; her windows have become dusty, the broken areas covered with spider webs. After taking a break by the fountain, we have several choices: we can follow the dirt road with our vehicle and pass through the village of Guven to reach the Colu Lake, or visit the picnic area of Masatlik. Are you seeking more adventure? If your vehicle is appropriate, choose the mountain road to Gurle Kaya and look down on Lake Iznik from above. Would you prefer nature walks? You may take a guide from the village and go to Hamamkaya and the waterfalls. Gemic was the second village to be founded in the foothills, after Karsak. According to tradition, the name of the village was inspired by the sailors who used to come to collect wood for the construction of shipyards. When following the traces of the past, the village surprises you with its unique buildings that have stood for centuries. An Ottoman mosque is right beside a Byzantine column head. This now does service as a place to sit and catch ones breath. In the next street, his neighbour has just returned home with his wife and his donkey. Does the itinerant barber still visit Gemic? He used to shave the local people in the building next to the coffee house. Maybe one day you will meet him. The common feature of the buildings of this village is that they are in harmony with nature, the climate and local agricultural practices. In the entrance of most of the buildings you may come across little tanks and barrels in which olives are being aged in salted water. In the rooms on the upper floors, silkworms have been patiently weaving silk cocoons for centuries.But today there is no more sericulture and no mulberry trees that formerly provided food for the silkworms. GURLE LIVES IN HARMONY WITH NATURE Gurle is our third stop. It is 17 km from Orhangazi. Before the foundation of the Turkish Republic it was a village governed by Pazarkoy. In the summer, Gurle's population increases to 600 people, when the summer visitors depart this decreases by half. Yeni Gurle is much busier, with labourers, travellers, tourists and the local residents. In all three of the villages travellers are welcomed with great hospitality. Living naturally, in harmony with and respect for nature, becomes even more attractive. How much pleasure there is to be found in sharing ones life with the hawks, the bugs, beside the fountain and under the spreading chestnut trees. But, most beautiful of all are the things we learn and recall in nature, things we had long since forgotten in passing. Erdal Yazici is a photographer and freelance writer |
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