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Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu. By land, sea or air!
Ok, so I'm being a bit preemptive but I like to know what I'm getting
into if at all possible. My mother-in-law has spent the last two Christmases in Lamu and has decided, already, that she is going there again next year. She has rented the house and invited us to join her for two weeks in paradise. When she travels there she does it first class, and of course lands in Nairobi and then shuttle jumps to Lamu. Never really seeing Kenya. I can't blame her though. She has been there many many times before. I however have never been to Africa and I'm not about to fly straight to Lamu, no matter how safe it is, and miss the rest of the continent. So here is what I'm thinking. Everyone swears by the train from Nairobi to Mombasa, so for the classical colonial experience I think we should try that. Is first class really $39 per person? Once in Mombasa, if we can, I'd like to hire a dhow and sail to Lamu with a stop over in Malindi. Can you still do this? The last posting I saw was for someone who had done this in 1990. Now to go way out there, if you don't think I can find a Capt. to do this, how much do you think I could buy a small to medium size dhow for? - Note: There will be three of us traveling together, my wife, her brother and my self. All of us accomplished sailors. I've sailed in the Atlantic, Caribbean, Gulf and Pacific. My brother-in-law races America's cup class out of San Francisco. The point being is that we don't want the "tour" experience. We want to see, feel and breathe Africa. Also, how bad is the crime really? |
#2
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Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu. By land, sea or air!
In message , Jeff
writes Ok, so I'm being a bit preemptive but I like to know what I'm getting into if at all possible. My mother-in-law has spent the last two Christmases in Lamu and has decided, already, that she is going there again next year. She has rented the house and invited us to join her for two weeks in paradise. When she travels there she does it first class, and of course lands in Nairobi and then shuttle jumps to Lamu. Never really seeing Kenya. I can't blame her though. She has been there many many times before. I however have never been to Africa and I'm not about to fly straight to Lamu, no matter how safe it is, and miss the rest of the continent. So here is what I'm thinking. Everyone swears by the train from Nairobi to Mombasa, so for the classical colonial experience I think we should try that. Is first class really $39 per person? Once in Mombasa, if we can, I'd like to hire a dhow and sail to Lamu with a stop over in Malindi. Can you still do this? The last posting I saw was for someone who had done this in 1990. Now to go way out there, if you don't think I can find a Capt. to do this, how much do you think I could buy a small to medium size dhow for? - Note: There will be three of us traveling together, my wife, her brother and my self. All of us accomplished sailors. I've sailed in the Atlantic, Caribbean, Gulf and Pacific. My brother-in-law races America's cup class out of San Francisco. The point being is that we don't want the "tour" experience. We want to see, feel and breathe Africa. Also, how bad is the crime really? Jeff, This is a very interesting posting! My husband has long wanted to go on a dhow around the East African coast. We did live in Kenya for several years and he never made it! We`ve been on the overnight train from Nairobi to Mombasa many times. It`s a very worthwhile experience and a good alternative to flying. It is quite cheap as well. We have been down to the Old Port in Mombasa a few times and seen the few dhows in port. Times have changed though and the dhow trade is not what it was. It is unlikely that you will find a dhow to take you from Mombasa to Lamu and Malindi. There are apparently strict rules on taking tourists on boats. This is for safety reasons. This does need more research Jeff but suffice it to say dhow travel has changed over the years. You will hopefully get more replies. I will follow this posting with interest. Good Luck! As for the crime: The people of Kenya will welcome you with open arms. Just don`t walk around with signs of affluence or go out at night on foot. I`m sure your mother in law will give you some advice! Pat -- Pat Anderson |
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Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu. By land, sea or air!
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Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu. By land, sea or air!
Jeff,
let me add a few remarks and ideas. I keep going to Lamu and was there again this year. It is an interesting place to visit, although I never felt the inclination to stay there for longer than a few days, because in Kenya Lamu competes for my heart with the wonderful nature and wildlife reserves, which, I think, you shouldn't miss. As to the dhow trip, I would worry about it taking all too much time and become rather boring, not to mention the difficulty of avoiding sunburn when spending several days on an open boat. If you had, say, three months to spend in Kenya, such a dhow trip might be a good idea, but at two weeks I wouldn't be sure. I would recommend to plan visiting Samburu and Masai Mara, perhaps also Amboseli, and spend something like three days in Lamu. One possible idea would be to drop into Kenya and immediately fly to Lamu for two days of acclimatization. Then you could fly out for some wildlife safaris, then go back to Lamu the slow way for some last few days. But certainly even better would be a flexible approach where you visit Lamu briefly, then one nature reserve, and then you decide how you spend the remaining 8 or 9 days. This may not always be possible though, but it would certainly be best. Hans-Georg -- No mail, please. |
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Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu. By land, sea or air!
In message , Hans-Georg
Michna writes Jeff, let me add a few remarks and ideas. I keep going to Lamu and was there again this year. It is an interesting place to visit, although I never felt the inclination to stay there for longer than a few days, because in Kenya Lamu competes for my heart with the wonderful nature and wildlife reserves, which, I think, you shouldn't miss. As to the dhow trip, I would worry about it taking all too much time and become rather boring, not to mention the difficulty of avoiding sunburn when spending several days on an open boat. If you had, say, three months to spend in Kenya, such a dhow trip might be a good idea, but at two weeks I wouldn't be sure. I would recommend to plan visiting Samburu and Masai Mara, perhaps also Amboseli, and spend something like three days in Lamu. One possible idea would be to drop into Kenya and immediately fly to Lamu for two days of acclimatization. Then you could fly out for some wildlife safaris, then go back to Lamu the slow way for some last few days. But certainly even better would be a flexible approach where you visit Lamu briefly, then one nature reserve, and then you decide how you spend the remaining 8 or 9 days. This may not always be possible though, but it would certainly be best. Hans-Georg Hans Georg, Jeff`s mother in law is hiring a house for two weeks on Lamu. He seems keen to travel by sea. We think that going by dhow from Mombasa may not be an option nowadays. We`ve spoken to people at the Old Port in Mombasa about five years ago and they said that method of travel doesn`t happen now. I don`t know if you know anything different? We just flew from Malindi to Manda and across to Lamu by local boat. It would be interesting if some research could be done if Jeff is so keen to go by sea. As you say, and Andy, my husband, agrees, it would take a few days, if someone were able and of course willing, to undertake such a voyage. I will try to do a search, just for interest. Pat -- Pat Anderson |
#7
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Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu. By land, sea or air!
In message , Jeff
writes Ok, so I'm being a bit preemptive but I like to know what I'm getting into if at all possible. My mother-in-law has spent the last two Christmases in Lamu and has decided, already, that she is going there again next year. She has rented the house and invited us to join her for two weeks in paradise. When she travels there she does it first class, and of course lands in Nairobi and then shuttle jumps to Lamu. Never really seeing Kenya. I can't blame her though. She has been there many many times before. I however have never been to Africa and I'm not about to fly straight to Lamu, no matter how safe it is, and miss the rest of the continent. So here is what I'm thinking. Everyone swears by the train from Nairobi to Mombasa, so for the classical colonial experience I think we should try that. Is first class really $39 per person? Once in Mombasa, if we can, I'd like to hire a dhow and sail to Lamu with a stop over in Malindi. Can you still do this? The last posting I saw was for someone who had done this in 1990. Now to go way out there, if you don't think I can find a Capt. to do this, how much do you think I could buy a small to medium size dhow for? - Note: There will be three of us traveling together, my wife, her brother and my self. All of us accomplished sailors. I've sailed in the Atlantic, Caribbean, Gulf and Pacific. My brother-in-law races America's cup class out of San Francisco. The point being is that we don't want the "tour" experience. We want to see, feel and breathe Africa. Also, how bad is the crime really? Jeff, I`ve found a link for you to check out, which includes an email contact so that you can get more information. Even if it`s not what you are looking for you can get some info. and ideas!. Good luck, Pat http://www.sailkenya.com -- Pat Anderson |
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Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu. By land, sea or air!
Pat Anderson wrote:
Jeff`s mother in law is hiring a house for two weeks on Lamu. He seems keen to travel by sea. We think that going by dhow from Mombasa may not be an option nowadays. We`ve spoken to people at the Old Port in Mombasa about five years ago and they said that method of travel doesn`t happen now. I don`t know if you know anything different? Pat, when I was in Lamu I was under the impression that at least one big dhow goes to Malindi to fetch soft drinks and perhaps some other stuff. If so then perhaps some people could hitch a ride on that dhow if the time is right. I can't be sure, of course. And, of course, you can always hire a dhow for the entire trip. Hans-Georg We just flew from Malindi to Manda and across to Lamu by local boat. It would be interesting if some research could be done if Jeff is so keen to go by sea. As you say, and Andy, my husband, agrees, it would take a few days, if someone were able and of course willing, to undertake such a voyage. I will try to do a search, just for interest. Pat -- No mail, please. |
#9
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Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu. By land, sea or air!
Jeff,
I've found a link for you to check out, which includes an email contact so that you can get more information. Even if it's not what you are looking for you can get some info. and ideas!. Good luck, Pat http://www.sailkenya.com Thanks everyone for your responses. And Pat you are correct. Much as I'd like to spend less time in Lamu, nothing against Lamu mind you, it is as you said a pre-planned excursion that we are just trying to shoehorn as much "extra" as possible. Also you hit the nail on the head. We are a sailing family and the chance the sail the coast of Africa is one that I'm willing to go to great lengths to achieve. Thanks for the link. I did send him some questions and I will post when/if they get back to me. Some interesting things that I did take away from his site were.... 1. That their normal trip is from Mombasa north and it's a beat. Meaning that there are consistent southerly winds. So it sounds like the way to go would be to start the trip with a flight into Lamu and then sail south to Mombasa and then take the train. 2. Secondly he charges $850 US per person for a six-day excursion. WOW, I could go on a seven day Carnival cruise for that price. I'm more inclined to walk down to the docks and see what's what. 3. Everyone in Kenya has terrible HTML skills J I may have to start a biz specializing in websites for African business. Thanks again for all your help and I'll be sure to post what I find. |
#10
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Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi and Lamu. By land, sea or air!
I think that first class on the train is two people in a sleeping
compartment, second class is four people sharing, and third class is open compartments. Dinner and breakfast is included in the 1st and 2nd class fares. Travel is by night (the last two hours into Mombasa is after dawn), but sometimes the train is delayed and you will be in the daylight - I once did almost the whole trip in light after a derailment! Re the dhow: I don't think you will have much luck because of government regulations, but if you are a sailor, I suggest you contact the Mombasa Yacht Club. You might find somebody there who would welcome experienced passengers. If you can't find a phone number , I may have one. Having looked in the Lonely Planet Kenya guide, 2nd edition, 1994, page 278, I find that there is (was?) a standardized procedure for getting a dhow ride. Check the latest edition to see what it says - it's under Getting there and away: Boat. Good luck, Peter |
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