Cambodia - The Internet Travel Guide (FAQ) (part 1/2)

Archive-name: travel/cambodia-guide/part1
Url: http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia
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CAMBODIA - Peter M. Geiser's Hotel and Travel Guide


Cambodia still is a bit of a tourist backwater. However, the runis of
Angkor Wat are definitely worth the effort and even Phnom Penh,
Cambodia's capital, offers many nice attractions. For the more
adventurous traveller, visiting small villages in Cambodias country
side full of friendly Cambodians may lead to wonderful experiences.



Places
Angkor Wat
Angkor-Wat Tours
Banteay Srei
Batdambang
Killing Fields
Kompong Saom (Sihanoukville)
Phnom Chissor
Phnom Penh
Siem Reap
Tonle Bati


General Information
Geographical Information
Climate
People
Events
Visa
Embassies
Border Crossing
Money
Telephone
Internet Access
Safety
Health


Transportation
Flying
Train
Bus
Boat
Cars
(Moto) Taxi


Copyright (c) 1995 - 2004, Peter M. Geiser
http://www.pmgeiser.ch
http://www.pmgeiser.com
http://www.mineralwaters.org
http://www.dussy.ch

************************************************** ************************

ANGKOR WAT

http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia/places/angkorwat.htm


Sights

What has become known as Angkor Wat is in fact a huge area near the
town of Siem Reap covering several square kilometers. The actual
temple Angkor Wat is only one of numerous others within this area. The
temples in this area have been built between the 6th and 13th
century. Unfortunately, the temples are in a very bad state and in
need of extensive restoration.

In the ninth century, the royal palace of the Khmer had been built on
a mountain, the Phnom Kulen. Later, the capital was moved to what is
now known as Angkor Thom. During its best times it was home to more
than one million people. It's decline came quite suddenly when in 1431
a large number of people emigrated. So far, there is no satisfying
explanation as to why this has happened.

In the center of Angkor Thom is the Bayon. It has numerous towers,
each with four faces looking into the directions of the four winds.
Just south of Angkor Thom is Angkor Wat, the actual temple that gave
the whole area its name.

There are two big areas, the Eastern and the Western Baray, that once
were lakes, used to store water for drinking and irrigation. Each
covers an area of about 17 sqare kilometers. Today only the western
lake still carries water, although only about half the original size.

About 65 km east of Siem Reap is the Beng Mealear Temple. It was built
shortly before Angkor Wat and is slightly smaller (about 150 x 200 m).
It is generally accepted as the architectonical "blue-print" to Angkor
Wat. It is dedicated to the Hindu god Wishnu.

Kbal Spean is about 60 km from Siem Reap at the foot of Kulen
Mountain. This was the residence of King Jayavarman II., who started
the history of Angkor at the beginning of the 8th century. Kbal Spean
is a shrine, used by the king for sacrifices. Images of various gods
are carved into the rocks of the river bed and a waterfall flows down
the mountain. This quiet place is regarded as holy and is still being
used by many Cambodians today.


Tours

Check out the Angkor-Wat Tours.


Hotels

There are no hotels in the temples of Angkor itself. You will have to
go to nearby Siem Reap. For your convenience, I list a few hotels:


The new and beautiful Rama Hotel opened in December 2002 at
No 0088 Bridge Stone Road No 6. It offers nice rooms, complete with
Hot-and Cold Shower, Mini Fridge, Safety Depository, Cable TV and
Air Conditioning.
Singles: USD 30, Doubles: USD 35. Set dinner: USD 9.
For resevations, contact "rama(at)pmgeiser.ch".

Reserve your hotel online at
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia/places/angkorwat.htm.


Practicalities

The entrance fees are quite high. A 1 day pass costs USD 20, 3 days
cost USD 40 and one week is USD 60. Some people seem to think this
very high, but think of the very high costs to preserve and restore
these temples (and compare it to prices for comparable attractions in
your country). On the other hand, it seems that most of that money
does not go its intended way to restauration, but rather improves the
balance sheets of a Vietnamese petrol company.

Note: It seems to be common practice (by some guest houses, guides,
etc.) to sell used tickets to the tourists. The people are told that
the tickets will be with the driver, and the driver will take you into
the complex. This could be the end of the story, unless you will meet
someone checking on you. If caught, pentalties are quite high.
Besides, the money spent on these already used tickets will certainly
not help restoring the ruins.

You can hire a guide for about USD 20 (depending on the number of
tourists, this can be cheaper).

Get to the temples early. There are much less people there early in
the morning. (Mary) Getting to the temples at 8 instead of 9 makes a
world of difference in staying one step ahead of the tour buses.

While many temple at the outlying areas once were occupied by Khmer
Rouge, it has become quite safe nowadays to wander around. However,
the danger of land mines still remines. A good indicator of the danger
are the local kids. If they refuse to go with you it's dangerous.

(Karl) Important Advice: I learned to go to the temples carrying a wad
of 100 and 200 Riel notes in my pockets. About $2 worth. I called it
"disappearance money". I'd give 200 Riels (six cents) to each of the
kids, "guides" and beggars, and they more than happily disappear and
leave me be. It's a lot of peace of mind for very little money.
Note from the editor: While it may be very convenient to "pay the kids
away", it of course encourages them to this behaviour.


Important notice: The Cambodian Immigration Law does not allow a 1-day
stay in Siem Reap.


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ANGKOR-WAT TOURS

http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia/plac...korwattour.htm


The best way to experience Angkor Wat is to take part in a tour. There
are many tour operators, and even more possibilites what to see on a
tour. Below, I list two excellent tours for short visits. For
resevations, contact "rama(at)pmgeiser.ch". There is also a
four-day tour available, starting and ending at Bangkok. For details,
please enquire.


One-Day Tour

Visit the antique capital of Angkor Thom (12th century): the
South Gate with its huge statues depicting the churning of the
ocean of milk, the Bayon temple, unique for its 54 towers
decorated with over 200 smiling faces of Avolokitesvara, the
Elephants Terrace, the Terrace of the Leper King and the
Ta Prohm, one of the most beautiful temples in the area, as it
has been relatively untouched since it was discovered and retains much
of its mystery. Its appeal lies in the fact that, unlike the other
monuments of Angkor, it has been left to be swallowed by the jungle,
and looks very much the way most of the monuments of Angkor appeared
when European explorer first stumbled upon them.

Lunch (not included)

In the afternoon, visit the most famous of all the temples on the
plain of Angkor: Angkor Wat. The temple complex covers 81
hectares and is comparable in size to the Imperial Palace in Beijing.
Its distinctive five towers are emblazoned on the Cambodian flag and
the 12th century masterpiece is considered by art historians to be the
prime example of classical Khmer art and architecture. Angkor Wat's
five towers symbolize Meru's five peaks - the enclosing wall
represents the mountains at the edge of the world and the surrounding
moat, the ocean beyond.

Transfer back to Siem Reap airport or hotel


For resevations, contact "rama(at)pmgeiser.ch".


Rates


Land arrangement only:


Number of passengersPrice per person
1USD 88.00
2USD 60.00
3 - 5USD 52.00
6 - 9USD 50.00
10 - 14USD 46.00
15 - 19USD 42.00
over 20USD 40.00


Net price per person in USD



Two-Day Tour

Day 1


Visit the antique capital of Angkor Thom (12th century): the
South Gate with its huge statues depicting the churning of the
ocean of milk, the Bayon Temple, unique for its 54 towers
decorated with over 200 smiling faces of Avolokitesvara, the Royal
Enclosure, the Phimeanakas, the Elephants Terrace
and the Terrace of the Leper King.


Lunch (not included)


In the afternoon, visit the most famous of all the temples on the
plain of Angkor: Angkor Wat. The temple complex covers 81
hectares and is comparable in size to the Imperial Palace in Beijing.
Its distinctive five towers are emblazoned on the Cambodian flag and
the 12th century masterpiece is considered by art historians to be the
prime example of classical Khmer art and architecture. Angkor Wat's
five towers symbolize Meru's five peaks - the enclosing wall
represents the mountains at the edge of the world and the surrounding
moat, the ocean beyond.


Sunsetfrom Phnom Bakheng, one of the two hills
dominating the plain of Angkor, from where you will have a
spectacular view of the Western Baray and Angkor Wat.

Day 2

In the morning, you will continue your temple visits, including
Prasat Kravan with unique brick sculptures, Pre Rup, the
mountain-temple, Ta Som, Neak Pean, a fountain built in
the middle of a pool and representing the paradisiacal Himalayan
mountain-lake, Eastern Mebon, guarded at its corner by stone
figures of harnessed elephants, some of which are still in a
reasonable state of preservation and Preah Khan, built by the
King Jayavarman VII and, like Ta Prohm, a place of towered enclosures
and shoulder-hugging corridors. Unlike Ta Prohm, however, the temple
of Preah Khan is in a reasonable state of preservation and ongoing
restoration efforts should maintain and even improve this situation.


Lunch (not included)


In the afternoon, transfer to the archaeological site and continue the
temples tour. Visit Ta Prohm, one of the most beautiful temples
in the area, as it has been relatively untouched since it was
discovered and retains much of its mystery. Its appeal lies in the
fact that, unlike the other monuments of Angkor, it has been left to
be swallowed by the jungle, and looks very much the way most of the
monuments of Angkor appeared when European explorer first stumbled
upon them.


Then, visit Takeo, Thommanon and Chau Say Tevoda
temples.


Transfer back to Siem Reap airport or hotel


For resevations, contact "rama(at)pmgeiser.ch".


Rates


Land arrangement only:


Number of passengersPrice per person
1USD 175.00
2USD 119.00
3 - 5USD 103.00
6 - 9USD 96.00
10 - 14USD 88.00
15 - 19USD 82.00
over 20USD 79.00


Net price per person in USD


Four-Day Tour

For Terms and Conditions

The price include only the following services:

Transfers and tours mentioned in the itinerary by private A/C vehicle
Entrance fees on the archaeological site
Services of local English-speaking guide for transfers, visits and tours mentioned in the itinerary
All the services mentioned in the itinerary

Price excluding:

Flights to and from Siem Reap
Visa fees upon arrival in Siem Reap airport: 20 USD + 1 photo per person
International airport tax in Siem Reap: 15 USD per person
All meals and accommodation
Drinks, tips and personal expenses
All the services not mentioned in the program

Important notice: The Cambodian Immigration Law does not allow a 1-day
stay in Siem Reap.


Hotels

The new and beautiful Rama Hotel opened in December 2002 at
No 0088 Bridge Stone Road No 6. It offers nice rooms, complete with
Hot-and Cold Shower, Mini Fridge, Safety Depository, Cable TV and
Air Conditioning.
Singles: USD 30, Doubles: USD 35. Set dinner: USD 9.
For resevations, contact "rama(at)pmgeiser.ch".


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BANTEAY SREI

http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia/places/banteaysrei.htm


The temple of Banteay Srei is about a thousand years old. Although
small, it is very ornate and well preserved.

It is located some 30 km north of Angkor Wat. The best way to get
there is to rent a car with a driver. It costs USD 30 for the driver,
the car, and a hotel at Banteay Srei. The temple opens at 8 am and the
ticket for Angkor Wat is valid.


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BATDAMBANG

http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia/places/batdambang.htm


Batdambang is the second largest city in Cambodia. Located towards the
Thai border it profits enormously from trade with the rich neighbor.
It is also an ideal stop-over when travelling overland from Thailand
to Angkor Wat.

Hotels

There are many hotels with air-conditioning and satellite TV.

Restaurants

Restaurants are plentiful, mostly managed by Thai.


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KILLING FIELDS

http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia/places/killingf.htm


The Killing Fields are some 10 km outside of Phnom Penh, near Choeng Ek.
For a tour inquire at the Capitol Restaurant or rent a car for USD 20 a
day. It is also possible to take a moto.

Entrance is generally USD 2, but it may be different, depending on the
guard, your face, the weather, and what else...


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KOMPONG SAOM (SIHANOUKVILLE)

http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia/places/kompongsaom.htm


Sihanoukville is on the coast near the border to Vietnam.

There is a go-cart track, named Obye Karting, 4km East of the market
(turn right about mid-way). The track is 535 m long and has 10 carts,
imported from France. Prices: 10 min USD 6, 20 min USD USD 10, 30 min
for USD 14, and for 24x10 min USD 100. Beers is USD 1 and soft-drinks
are USD 0.75. In addition, there are roller-blades and mini-motos for
rent. A 12x4 m swimming pool is beeing completed. Open 24 hours, 7
days.

(Anna, Mar 96) Sunbathe on the municipal beach with no-one selling
food, drinks or massage ... Hire a motorbike and drive a few
kilometers to find a totally deserted beach ... Visit the English pub,
the docks, the market, the coral islands, Sam's restaurant by the
beach ... discover that you have been here for two weeks already.

The trip from Phnom Penh is about 4 hours by bus and costs some
KHR 12000. Currently, the national road nr. 4 is under government
control.


Hotels

Australian Apsara, at Victory Beach near the Post Office has
self contained rooms for USD 9 per night, or USD 50 per month! The
owner is Australian and his Khmer wive has been in Australia for five
years, working as a chef. The restaurant at the guest house offers
Khmer and Western food for reasonable prices.

The traveller hangout is the Mali Chenda Guest House. Rooms are USD 3
for a single and USD 5 for a double. It is located up the hill behind
Sam's restaurant.

The Orchd Guesthouse offers rooms with private bath and hot water for
USD 15 to 20. American breakfast costs USD 2 extra.


Restaurants

The Sunrise Restaurant offers good Khmer food. A good breakfast runs
at less than a dollar. They also have good coffee.

The Koh Pos Restaurant directly at the beach specializes in seafood,
but has also other great food for very little money. Good service.

The Mealy Chenda Restaurant, a roof top site on the Guest House atop a
hill, has stunning sunset views and very inexpensive good food.

On 17 Februar 2001 the Baladin piano bar has been opened.


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PHNOM CHISSOR

http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia/places/phnomchissor.htm


This hill is located about 60 km south of Phnom Penh, on national road
2 to Takeo. On its top is a pre-angkorian ruin and you can enjoy a
beautiful view over the surrounding country-side.


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PHNOM PENH

http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia/places/phnompenh.htm


The capital of Cambodia dates back to an event in the year 1327. It is
said that a rich widow named Don Penh found a tree with 5 Buddhas in
it. She thus founded a pagoda, Wat Phnom Don Penh, The Monastery on
the Hill of Lady Penh. In 1434 the city founded some years earlier by
King Ponhea Yat was finished. In 1866 it became the capital.

Today, Phnom Penh unfortunately is turning into the pit of Asia, with
prostitution and drugs abounding. After dark, robbery at gunpoint is
quite common. There are several reports of tourists being dragged from
their motorbikes. Make sure that you don't stay out in the evening.


Sights

Palace
The palace of the king with its beautifully curved roofs is off limits
for visitors. However, haveing a look from the outside still gives an
idea of its beauty.

Wat Preah Keo (Silver Pagoda)
Located just next to the palace, this is the most famous pagoda in
Phnom Penh. It was built in 1962 to replace a wooden temple from 1900.
The name comes from 5281 tiles of silver, each weighing a little above
1 kg, that covers the floor. The altar is home to a life sized Buddha,
made of 90 kg pure gold and covered with 9584 diamonds, the largest
being 25 karats!
Open daily, except Mondays, from 8:00 - 11:00 and 14:00 - 17:00.
Entrance fee is USD 2. Cameras are USD 2 extra and videos USD 5. Don't
use flash, as it destroys the gold.

National Museum
This museum is host to a number of valuable objects of the Cambodian
history. Many statues from Angkor can be found here.
Open daily, except Mondays, from 8:00 - 11:00 and 14:00 - 17:00.
Entrance fee is USD 2. Cameras are not allowed.

Markets
There are three markets worth checking out: the Central Market, the
Russian Market and the Tuol Tum Pong Market. The latter is the least
expensive.

The Killing Field Museum (Tuol Sleng), a former school taken over in 1975
by the Khmer Rouge and turned into a torture chamber, is open to visitors.
Entrance fee is USD 2.


Climate

Month Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec

Air C 26 27 29 30 29 28 27 28 27 27 27 26
F 79 81 84 83 84 82 81 82 81 81 81 79

days rain 1 1 2 6 14 15 16 16 19 17 9 4


Activities

If you want a day to relax, consider the Olympic Stadium with tennis
court and an olympic size pool. Entrance is USD 2.


Shopping

(Mary) The gift shop at Wat Thanh in Phnom Penh deserves your money.
It's a coop that trains Cambodians disabled by land mines in various
crafts, some of which are sold at the gift shop. Small purses, bags,
frames, clothes, etc. out of lovely silk.


Transportaton

The fare for a taxi from Phnom Penh's Pochentong International Airport
is about USD 7. If you walk the couple of meters to the main road,
you'll be able to get a ride on a motorbike for USD 1 to 2.

The going fare fo motorcycles with driver is USD 1.

Norodom Boulevard is closed for cyclos and motorbikes. The official
fee is 2000 Riels, but the police will probably ask you for USD 20. In
effect, the driver should pay, but the police of course goes for the
rich foreigner. You can try to bargain, down to USD 5 should be
possible. Another option would be to just walk away, but the police
has some means to enforce their demands...

If you go on a tour or arrange transportation, deal directly with the
local operators. Especially bad reputation has Hanuman Travel.


Hotels


Restaurants

In the evening, food stalls are put up at the riverside. Also on the
river front, about a kilometer from the Japanese bridge, are some
excellent authentic Cambodian restaurants.

The Chez Lip, the Seng Lip and Calmette are all offering very good
quality food at very competitive prices. They also do take-away.

A good, cheap Indian restaurant can be found at 240 St. and Monicong.

Another good place is the large Chinese at the far side of Preah
Monivong.

The California restaurant at Preah Sihanoukand has South-East Asian
menu that once was famous, but seems to have become low quality.

Many travellers and expats hang out at the Heart of Darkness, a bar
with a pool table. Named after a novel by Joseph Conrad, it is a dark
place with a very special athmosphere. You can also play pool there.

Very much recommended is Tom's Irish Pub. A former UNTAC employee, Tom
runs the place with his wife and every now and the throws a party for
orphaned children.

Another favorite with expats is the Martini Pub. Not quite so well
known, but probably a much better place is the Duck Tub, on Pasteur.

For western food and a wild time, there is Happy Nef's Pizza. Even
better is the Happy Herb. Well, the names say it all: not for 'clean'
people...

The FCC (Foreign Correspondents Club) on the riverside is open since
1993 and gives a colonial feeling with its high ceilings, slow fans
and big armchairs. It is the perfect place for a beer at sunset.

Twice a month at the Australian embassy there are beers on the
verandah for just one dollar a can.


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SIEM REAP

http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia/places/siemreap.htm


Siem Reap is the town next to Angkor Wat. Its main purpose is to
provide accommodation and food and a convenient transport hub to the
travellers to Angkor Wat and other temples in the vicinity.

In the south of Siem Reap, near the Ceremonial Gate at the river,
there is a crocodile farm. Entrance is USD 1 for tourists.

To move to and between the temples of Angkor, rent a bicycle (USD 1
per day) or a motorbike with driver (USD 5 per day) (Mar 96).
(Mary) Some of the moto drivers are remarkably well informed about the
temples, and will know better than you do what route you should take.
They will have good suggestions on dropping you off on one side of a
temple and picking you up on another. When you get there and see how
huge the temples are, you will appreciate this. Be sure to give your
driver the lunch hours off--from around 12-2--so they can go back and
eat with their families. In the afternoon heat, you'll welcome the
breeze from the moto ride to and from town anyway.

Motorcycles with drivers are USD 6-7 per day. A car with a driver
seems to go for about USD 18.


Important notice: The Cambodian Immigration Law does not allow a 1-day
stay in Siem Reap.


Hotels

The new and beautiful Rama Hotel opened in December 2002 at
No 0088 Bridge Stone Road No 6. It offers nice rooms, complete with
Hot-and Cold Shower, Mini Fridge, Safety Depository, Cable TV and
Air Conditioning.
Singles: USD 30, Doubles: USD 35. Set dinner: USD 9.
For resevations, contact "rama(at)pmgeiser.ch".

Reserve your hotel online at
http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia/places/siemreap.htm.


There are many small guest houses starting at only a few dollars per
person.

The Garden Guesthouse at 99 Wat Bo Road is run by the village doctor's
wife. It has rooms with clean, queen-size beds for USD 5. There is a
pharmacy in the same house.

Guest House 265, Guest House 45 and Apsara Guest House are recommended
by Anna.

The Apsara Guest House has double rooms for USD 3. The bathroom is on
the outside.

The Golden Apsara has large tripels for USD 20. The owner speaks no
English, but excellent French.

(Anna, Mar 96) Not recommended is Naga Guest House which charges only
USD 1 per person, but overcharges for food, has dirty bathrooms and
tried to rip me off.

The Freedom Hotel has rooms from USD 10 to USD 25, depending on room
quality and bargaining ability. The staff is friendly. Free pick-up
service from the airport or the boat landing. They have a restaurant
serving meals for around USD 1.50 to USD 2.50. Tel 063 963 473 or
015 637 649.

The Ta Prom Hotel is located directly at the river. Fridays, they
stage a Cambodian dance show. Admission USD 5.


Restaurants

The Swiss Center, owned and built, as a labor of love by the former
manager of the Grand Hotel, offers fine cuisine. The superbly equipped
kitchen is a hobby of the owner, who loves to cook. Prices are quite
reasonable. Mr Rudof Knuchel recived a number of awards in his time.


The Green House is a nice, cheap restaurant. Just a bit further down
the road, at the corner is another nice place.

A good place for a relaxing dinner is the Bayon Restaurant. Food is
about USD 2-3. It is located at Wat Bo Road, just across the Garden
Guesthouse.

Also in Wat Bo Road, just next door to the Bayon is a good Thai place.

Popular with French expats is the Only One Cafe, Restaurant and Bar,
located right next to the New Market. The owner is very helpful and
friendly.

Popular restaurants are the Arun and the Sunflower.

Bring along an English language newspaper or a book when dining. The
staff is always eager to learn English.


************************************************** ************************

TONLE BATI

http://www.pmgeiser.ch/cambodia/places/tonlebati.htm


About 30 km south of Phnom Penh is Tonle Bati. Nearby is the Ta Prohm
Temple and the Yeah Pean Temple. This is a favourite spot for weekend
excursions of families who come here to picnic.

Although there has been a shrine since the 6th century, the oldest
buildings still visible date back to the 10th and 11th century. The
temples have been renovated several times, as recently as the 17th
century.

There is a nice legend associated with the Yeah Pean Temple, about
100 m from the Ta Prohm Temple. A king of Angkor once fell in love
with the daughter of a fisherman, the beautiful Yeah Pean. Upon
leaving he gave her a ring. The child she was to bear him should be
brought to Angkor with the ring as identification. Obediently, Yeah
Pean sent her son, named Prohm, to Angkor where he received a warm
welcome and the best education. Later, Prohm was sent back to the
province as governor. He looked well after the province and built a
temple after the one he had seen in Angkor, named after him Ta Prohm.
Nearby he erected the small Yeah Pean temple in honour of his mother.


************************************************** ************************

CAMBODIA - Peter M. Geiser's Hotel and Travel Guide

Copyright (c) 1995 - 2004, Peter M. Geiser

http://www.pmgeiser.ch
http://www.pmgeiser.com
http://www.mineralwaters.org
http://www.dussy.ch

************************************************** ************************