Congo-Kinshasa Safety?

Has anyone who has recently been to Kinshasa (or lives there) advise me
on current safety conditions and/or accomodation possibilities? I am a
Ph.D. student planning a 6-week research trip in June and July 2005 to
Congo-Kinshasa. (I will be meeting and interviewing various people who
work for nonprofits and the government while there about their
perspectives on the civil war and reconciliation, and DO NOT plan to
leave Kinshasa during my stay).

I have been told over and over by family / friends / colleagues that I
am crazy for wanting to go to Kinshasa (particularly during the planned
elections!), but I also know that security conditions "on the ground"
are often very different than the official news. Any word from people
who have recently been would be much appreciated.
Thanks!

-Sarah

"Sarah S" wrote in message
ups.com...
Has anyone who has recently been to Kinshasa (or lives there) advise me
on current safety conditions and/or accomodation possibilities? I am a
Ph.D. student planning a 6-week research trip in June and July 2005 to
Congo-Kinshasa. (I will be meeting and interviewing various people who
work for nonprofits and the government while there about their
perspectives on the civil war and reconciliation, and DO NOT plan to
leave Kinshasa during my stay).

I have been told over and over by family / friends / colleagues that I
am crazy for wanting to go to Kinshasa (particularly during the planned
elections!), but I also know that security conditions "on the ground"
are often very different than the official news. Any word from people
who have recently been would be much appreciated.
Thanks!

-Sarah

Hi Sarah: I'm in Kin, and have been here for 3 years and I can tell you
whatever you want to know.

First of all, don't believe all the hype. Its too bad you won't be leaving
Kin during your time, as the surrounding countryside is much nicer, and
safer, than town. If you do get a chance to get out of town, take it. Its
the far east where you don't want to go, but thats about 1500 miles from
here. Nontheless, I've been there also, and its even more stunning than I
can describe, but these days the war has turned ugly again.

Its currently safe, within well-defined boundaries. There are some standard
precautions that are instinctual to folks who live here, and if you take
them, you'll be fine. The local economy has improved (from hellish to just
destitute), so its not as godlessly dangerous as it used to be a halfdozen
years ago. Similarly, a lot of the dangers of a few years ago (like military
roadblocks taking extortions, or enforced curfews) are now gone, and the
roads are open and there are shops, restaurants and hotels. The big advice I
can give you is to not draw too much attention to yourself, and you'll be
fine. I see from your resume that you speak intermediate french; that will
help. If you have some city 'street smarts' you'll be completely okay here.
To help you with the 'local knowledge' and ease your worries, I'd contact
one of the NGOs or missionary groups and see if you can arrange a driver and
car for your time here. In fact, to get the most of your time, I'd say a car
and driver are mandatory, unless you want more of a 'local experience' than
most folks want. Maybe you can make some church contacts through your dad?

It is volatile here, and if you do some rather arcane things, it can make
for a bad situation, but these are avoidable. For example, there have been
some street demonstrations against the UN, and during those times, the wiser
white folks stay indoors and behind closed curtains for the day. When the
street mobs get together, it becomes unpredictable and if you accidentally
walk into a gathering, or try to drive through one, you could get mobbed and
seriously hurt. They aren't out to be violent, but things can turn that way
for no reason. On the other hand, if you actually have things to DO indoors
(like work), you might not even know about the demonstrations going on
across town, as they don't come looking for you. These 'demonstrations' take
place about once every month, so they aren't really a defining aspect of
daily life. They are usually ugly (burning tires, etc) but not violent.

The same goes with giving people handouts when you are out and about. There
are hundreds of orphaned kids and walking injured people on the streets
asking for handouts, and if you give them something, then they will sense an
opportunity, more will come around, and eventually you will have a small mob
around you. This will draw attention, and that's when it gets unpredicatble.
When I walk downtown (which is rare; I only walk from my car to the shop and
back, but sometimes I'll walk a few blocks just to 'feel the vibe', like
yesterday) I keep a stone face and say in Lingala "ne moyen tay" to the
beggars (it means 'it aint gonna happen'). They get the sense that I'm a
local, not a newbie that they can put the touch on, and they go away. Look
at it like being in NYC: don't walk around with your mouth wide open,
looking like a tourist, and you won't be targeted. I know it sounds
horrible, insensitive and ugly-american elitist, but having a horribly thick
skin is a necessity of being here.

To give you a positive mental image, let me say that there are dozens of
restaurants and cafes where you can sit, have a beer or a pizza, talk all
day and enjoy the sights and sounds of Kin around you with no danger. The
owners keep the panhandlers at bay, and you will have no idea that you are
in a volatile city. Every day there are hundreds of people in suits and
ties, briefcases and business attire doing their jobs. I often wander down
by the river among the fishermen and locals, the military guys there know me
(they call me 'le Prof') and I have no problems.

As for the election time: that's anybodies guess. The elections are not
going to happen in June, and either there will have been enough small
demonstrations between now and then that the date passes unceremoniously, or
its gonna hit the fan. The definition of the latter is that crowds will
gather, probably stand around the Presidential palace and the ministries and
shout stuff until the military comes out, fires a few rounds in the air, and
everyone runs home, smashing a few windows and turning over a few cars in
the process, then the city shuts down for a week or so. As some of the vice
presidents (one in particular) are not opposed to armed conflict, its
entirely possible that there could be some warfare...there has been open
machine gunning in the streets twice in the past year, but you will
certainly survive it, although it scares the bejesus out of you. However,
the real problem will be that the airport will definately close down if
there are riots, and you'll be stuck here, come hell or high water. Also,
you won't be able to travel to the NGOs you wish to interview. Its really up
in the air what will happen, but people stay through these things.

There are really only three housing opportunities in town. The Grand Hotel,
which is expensive and has both upscale and ramshackle accomodations, the
Memling which is expensive and has mostly upscale accomodations, and being
housed by a host family from a church group, an NGO or the Diplomatic corps.
The Memling and Grand run about $150 a night, so a 6-week stay will be a
small fortune. I can offer some alternatives if you need me to.

I don't know enough of your situation to know what support network you have
here, but to show up without any support (no hosting NGO or government body,
no driver, etc) is tantamount to being a tourist, and there aren't any
tourists here. You would find it difficult, at best, to arrange meetings
with government officials, and even with your experience, you might find Kin
intimidating. On the other hand, there are hundreds and hundreds of western
workers, and life goes on without us getting killed or kidnapped. Yesterday,
I went shopping, bought fresh eggs, bread and vegetables, got a haircut, had
an omelette and cup of coffee at a local restaurant, and drove alone all
over town. Two months ago, I hid in my apartment behind barbed wire with
armed guards for a day while the demonstrations passed.

Life in Kin. Its definately not Berkeley!

Feel free to ask me absolutely anything about being here, I'm glad to help.

--riverman
(you can email me at yahoo.com. My username is myronbuck.)

Kinshasa has clearly changed a lot since I was there in 1993/1994. I
thought I'd dropped into hell :-) Mobuto was on his way out, the
Rwandan genocide was going on etc. I spent a few days in Kin, then
went on to Goma (full of refugees), and then to Kisangani, Mbandaka,
Beni, and finally Bunia. I was hassled at every opportunity. Soldiers
forced me to take photographs of them, then extroted money. The water
supply in Kin dried up, and I spend three days in tropical heat with
nothing more than a trickle of brown water (but plenty of Primus and
Tembu)

In Bunia I probably ate more insect protein than any other protein, as
the food was crawling with bugs. There was just no way to avoid it.

I can honestly say that I've never been so relieved to get out of a
country. And I've done quite a lot of African travel, most of it
rough.

I will probably have to visit on business in the next few
weeks/months, so I read your posting with great interest. I am greatly
releived to hear that I might have a better experience this time :-)

Marc


On Mon, 28 Feb 2005 12:25:40 +0100, "riverman"
wrote:

SNIP
Life in Kin. Its definately not Berkeley!

Feel free to ask me absolutely anything about being here, I'm glad to help.

--riverman
(you can email me at yahoo.com. My username is myronbuck.)

"Marc Lurie" wrote in message
...
Kinshasa has clearly changed a lot since I was there in 1993/1994. I
thought I'd dropped into hell :-) Mobuto was on his way out, the
Rwandan genocide was going on etc. I spent a few days in Kin, then
went on to Goma (full of refugees), and then to Kisangani, Mbandaka,
Beni, and finally Bunia. I was hassled at every opportunity. Soldiers
forced me to take photographs of them, then extroted money. The water
supply in Kin dried up, and I spend three days in tropical heat with
nothing more than a trickle of brown water (but plenty of Primus and
Tembu)

In Bunia I probably ate more insect protein than any other protein, as
the food was crawling with bugs. There was just no way to avoid it.

I can honestly say that I've never been so relieved to get out of a
country. And I've done quite a lot of African travel, most of it
rough.

I will probably have to visit on business in the next few
weeks/months, so I read your posting with great interest. I am greatly
releived to hear that I might have a better experience this time :-)

Marc


I have posted a series of articles called "Life in Congo" on another
newsgroup, and at www.getlostmagazine.com. I found that there was basically
no info about Kinshasa out there, so I documented my arrival and
enculturalization process over the past few years. You might find it
interesting reading.

Meanwhile, you can ask me about stuff before you arrive, if you wish. We
could even meet for a beer, as your replies to my posts about Zimbabwe were
quite helpful, too.

--riverman

I'd be very happy to meet for a beer (or two) IF/WHEN I get there. I'm
still in negotiation phase with my Congolese colleagues, but I'm
fairly confident that I will get the go ahead to travel to Kin.

I'm going to have a good look at your articles.

Regards,
Marc

I have posted a series of articles called "Life in Congo" on another
newsgroup, and at www.getlostmagazine.com. I found that there was basically
no info about Kinshasa out there, so I documented my arrival and
enculturalization process over the past few years. You might find it
interesting reading.

Meanwhile, you can ask me about stuff before you arrive, if you wish. We
could even meet for a beer, as your replies to my posts about Zimbabwe were
quite helpful, too.

--riverman

I'd be very happy to meet for a beer (or two) IF/WHEN I get there. I'm
still in negotiation phase with my Congolese colleagues, but I'm
fairly confident that I will get the go ahead to travel to Kin.

I'm going to have a good look at your articles.

Regards,
Marc

I have posted a series of articles called "Life in Congo" on another
newsgroup, and at www.getlostmagazine.com. I found that there was basically
no info about Kinshasa out there, so I documented my arrival and
enculturalization process over the past few years. You might find it
interesting reading.

Meanwhile, you can ask me about stuff before you arrive, if you wish. We
could even meet for a beer, as your replies to my posts about Zimbabwe were
quite helpful, too.

--riverman

Hi Sarah,

As luck would have it, I had to suddenly go to Kinshasa on very short
notice this week. The notice was so short that I was not even able to
come to work and send an E-mail to "Riverman" that I was coming!!!
That was a pity 'cos it would have been really good to meet for a
beer.

My impressions were very favourable. As I've said, I was last there in
1994, and the place has changed dramatically for the better. There
appears to be real progress, and the city appears to be functioning
fairly well. There is still a lot of typical African big city grime,
poverty etc. but there are businesses open, bakeries working,
enterprises flourishing, a good cellular telephone network, internet
access, and only one power failure in four days. What a contrastt to
the Kinshasa of 9 years ago...

Obviously, there are still enormous problems facing the country in
general, but I was told that Kinshasa is a safe city by African
standards, and that almost everything that yuo might require is
available somewhere, albeit at a somewhat inflated price :-)

Eating in good (western style and up-market Afro style) restaurants is
expensive, but the food is generaly good quality.

Regards,
Marc

On 27 Feb 2005 23:07:28 -0800, "Sarah S"
wrote:

Has anyone who has recently been to Kinshasa (or lives there) advise me
on current safety conditions and/or accomodation possibilities? I am a
Ph.D. student planning a 6-week research trip in June and July 2005 to
Congo-Kinshasa. (I will be meeting and interviewing various people who
work for nonprofits and the government while there about their
perspectives on the civil war and reconciliation, and DO NOT plan to
leave Kinshasa during my stay).

I have been told over and over by family / friends / colleagues that I
am crazy for wanting to go to Kinshasa (particularly during the planned
elections!), but I also know that security conditions "on the ground"
are often very different than the official news. Any word from people
who have recently been would be much appreciated.
Thanks!

-Sarah

Thanks so much, Marc and Riverman for the helpful information! It has
been *incredibly* useful as there is so little public info available on
travel to Congo-Kinshasa. The articles Riverman published (link above)
were also great. I am looking forward to being there in June.
Appreciatively,
Sarah

Thanks so much, Marc and Riverman for the helpful information! It has
been *incredibly* useful as there is so little public info available on
travel to Congo-Kinshasa. The articles Riverman published (link above)
were also great. I am looking forward to being there in June.
Appreciatively,
Sarah