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Kilimanjaro: access to Reusch Crater via Stella Point?



 
 
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  #1  
Old January 26th, 2006, 02:12 AM posted to rec.climbing,rec.backcountry,alt.rec.hiking,rec.travel.africa
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Kilimanjaro: access to Reusch Crater via Stella Point?

I am leaving for a Kilimanjaro trip this weekend, one which was
originally planned to summit via the Western Breach route. We were
hoping to potentially explore the summit (Reusch) crater and maybe even
the "ash pit", if feeling acclimatized.

As far as I know, the Western Breach route is still closed in the
aftermath of the rockfall accident in early January which killed
several trekkers. So we will almost certainly be summiting via Stella
Point, on the opposite side of the summit cone from the W.B.

The issue now is that the only "semi-official" trail to the Reusch
crater is much harder to access from Stella Point (much closer to the
W.B.). Summit day should be quite long already, and I don't feel
confident that we could do so much extra distance.

However, I have a copy of Henry Stedman's excellent Kilimanjaro
trekking guide, and he mentions an unmarked trail beginning near Stella
Point, heading to the crater.

This trail would be perfect if we can find it. Can anyone shed any
light on this trail? Has anyone actually tried it?

If the weather is clear, I have the feeling we can just bushwhack
across to the crater, using any old route. But I really don't know
anything for sure sitting here comfortably at home. It would be a huge
help to hear from anyone else who has been there on the summit.

  #2  
Old January 26th, 2006, 09:32 AM posted to rec.travel.africa
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Posts: n/a
Default Kilimanjaro: access to Reusch Crater via Stella Point?

It would be a huge
help to hear from anyone else who has been there on the summit.


Hi,

I summited Kili via Stella Point(Shira Route) in 2003 in poor weather
(-12 deg C, wind, snow blizzard) . I can't talk for others, but I can
assure you that there was absolutely no way that I could do any
adventuring around :-)

It was so exhausting and uncomfortable (not to mention dangerous) that
DOWN was all I wanted. Even my much fitter friends (one a tri-athlete
and iron man contestant, and two are marathon runners and cyclists)
had a tough time of it.

I don't know your level of experience at altitudes above 5200m, but
unless you have a lot of experience and EXCELLENT guides, don't plan
to do too much. An inexperienced climber would be totally out of their
safety zone wandering about on Kili.

Just my 2c worth...

Marc
  #3  
Old January 26th, 2006, 02:25 PM posted to rec.travel.africa
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Posts: n/a
Default Kilimanjaro: access to Reusch Crater via Stella Point?

Marc Lurie wrote:
I summited Kili via Stella Point(Shira Route) in 2003 in poor weather
(-12 deg C, wind, snow blizzard) . I can't talk for others, but I can
assure you that there was absolutely no way that I could do any
adventuring around :-)

It was so exhausting and uncomfortable (not to mention dangerous) that
DOWN was all I wanted. Even my much fitter friends (one a tri-athlete
and iron man contestant, and two are marathon runners and cyclists)
had a tough time of it.

I don't know your level of experience at altitudes above 5200m, but
unless you have a lot of experience and EXCELLENT guides, don't plan
to do too much. An inexperienced climber would be totally out of their
safety zone wandering about on Kili.

Just my 2c worth...


Marc,

Thanks for the post. If we are faced with treacherous conditions like
you described, I don't expect to do any extra adventuring whatsoever.
Congratulations on making the summit.

Do you recall how many days you spent on the mountain? The
conventional wisdom seems to be that 5 days on the mountain (such as
via Marangu route) makes the trip much harder. We are taking the
longest option of 7 days (Lemosho route) to be as fit as possible for
summit day.

Our experience level is moderate, but confined to 4200m and below. Our
fitness level is good (e.g. 2 hr45 marathon). Our style is careful.
Much will depend on acclimatization and weather, but we hope to at
least give ourselves a chance for a very rare opportunity.

By the way, are you glad you went? Was it a good trip?

-Tom

  #4  
Old January 26th, 2006, 04:18 PM posted to rec.travel.africa
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Posts: n/a
Default Kilimanjaro: access to Reusch Crater via Stella Point?


Thanks for the post. If we are faced with treacherous conditions like
you described, I don't expect to do any extra adventuring whatsoever.
Congratulations on making the summit.

Do you recall how many days you spent on the mountain? The
conventional wisdom seems to be that 5 days on the mountain (such as
via Marangu route) makes the trip much harder. We are taking the
longest option of 7 days (Lemosho route) to be as fit as possible for
summit day.

Our experience level is moderate, but confined to 4200m and below. Our
fitness level is good (e.g. 2 hr45 marathon). Our style is careful.
Much will depend on acclimatization and weather, but we hope to at
least give ourselves a chance for a very rare opportunity.

By the way, are you glad you went? Was it a good trip?

-Tom


Hi Tom,

I did the climb with 5 friends. None of us has any altitude training,
and only straightforward mountain hiking experience. Three of us were
extremely fit (one is a fitness nutcase), the other three (including
my girlfriend and me) range from reasonably fit to "could run a mile
if I had to, but I wouldn't want to"

We did the Shira route which starts at the base of the mountain at
1800m, and you walk through the rain forest to the higher altitudes.
It's all very pretty. The first day we realised that it was going to
be a difficult trip. I'm from Johannesburg (about 1700m) so I
struggled slightly less than my friends from sea level even though
they are significantly fitter than me.

The first night was spent at 3840m and we were exhausted. Every step
was a challenge, and sleeping was difficult. Those of us who started
taking Diamox the day before had an easier time than those who didn't
take it. It was very cold at night, and very damp. The next morning
was miserable before the sun rose, after which it started to warm up a
bit.

Our guides took us for a long walk up to about 4600m and then back
down to Shira camp at 3840m. The higher we got, the more difficult it
was to keep moving. The guides understand this, and they keep telling
you "Pole Pole" ("Slowly slowly"). It is so tempting to walk faster,
because your mind tells you that you should be able to, but walking
really slowly is actually the only way to do it. During this day I
thought that I was seriously in over my head. I even vaguely considred
giving up, but stuck it out.

As it turned out, we all had bad patches over the next few days where
we all considered throwing in the towel.

We spent a total of 6 days (5 days up, one day down) on the mountain.
I think that an extra day on the mountain is a good idea, but not if
the weather is lousy. One of the most difficult things to cope with is
being exhausted AND cold and wet. An extra day of being cold and wet
will do more to kill your morale than it will help with
aclimitization.

At altitudes above 5000 things are very different from just a few
hundred meters below. Our final ascent was from Barafu camp 4600m at
about midnight. My worst memory about the entire ascent and descent
was that my hands sweated and the sweat froze inside my gloves. I was
in absolute agony for about 6 hours. The climb is gruelling even for
fit people, and it's a pure test of determination. Most of it is done
in the dark, and you can't see the top until you're virtually there.
All the while there are people comming past you on the way down. These
are the ones who can't make it, and there's a deathly quiet as they
pass you.

Above 5500m you literally walk a few steps, take a rest, then a few
steps, then another rest. I really struggled from then on. You MUST
keep hydrated, but our water had frozen (it was in insulated camel
pouches in our packs but still froze) so we were feeling lousy. We had
raging headaches, and all suffered from nausea. The only way I could
keep going was to get angry and focus my anger on the mountain. The
summit was a bitter disapointment. The blizzard was so bad that we
couldn't even get a photograph, and we spent literally 30 seconds
there and turned back.

The descent to Barafu is, in some ways, more difficult than the
ascent. The route is covered with volcanic scree and you slip and
slide downwards, really punishing your feet and your knees. My
girlfriend reacted very badly at the summit, and collapsed (mostly due
to dehydration I think). We had a very horrible experience getting her
down, and I still get the shivvers when I think about ascent to
Barafu. By the time we reached our tents at Barafu I was absolutely
shattered. I climbed into the tent and wept like a baby. She had to be
carried down to Mweka camp very urgently to avoid complications at
altitude.

Was it a good experience? Definitely not. It was tough, uncomfortable,
and exhausting. And, if I'm perfectly honest about it, the achievement
of actually doing it only starts to sink in a year or two later. We
had no feeling of elation, no feelings of achievement at the time.

Am I glad I did it? Yes I am. I learned a lot about myself and my
abilities, and more importantly, I learned a lot about trust and
loyalty. My relationship with my girlfriend was immesurably
strengthened by the climb in a kind of kinship that can only be borne
out of hardship and real danger. We have also become close friends
with two of the four who climbed with us. With the other two people,
we walked onto the mountain as close friends, and left the mountain as
strangers. I have vowed never to consider them as friends again, and
will NEVER, EVER, trust them again. (I don't want to go into it, but
suffice it to say that I felt bitterly betrayed by them during the
final ascent where they were completely self-absorbed and selfish)

Now the cruncher... Would I do it again? Strangely, Yes I would. I
desperately want to try it in good weather, and with better
preparation.

With hindsight, what would I have done differently?
1) I wouldn't have gone with Chris and Natalie
2) I would have made sure my hands could be warm and dry on the ascent
(better gloves, with wicking effect)
3) I wouldn't have used leather boots. Although my boots were
comfortable, they were very cold in the snow for 8 hours. I think that
lighter waterproof Goretex boots would be better.
4) I'd have been far more careful of my water intake during the ascent

I've just looked over my post, and I see I've rambled a bit... so I'll
keep quiet now :-)

Regards,
Marc
  #5  
Old January 26th, 2006, 07:40 PM posted to rec.travel.africa
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Kilimanjaro: access to Reusch Crater via Stella Point?

Marc Lurie wrote:
Hi Tom,

I did the climb with 5 friends. None of us has any altitude training,
and only straightforward mountain hiking experience. Three of us were
extremely fit (one is a fitness nutcase), the other three (including
my girlfriend and me) range from reasonably fit to "could run a mile
if I had to, but I wouldn't want to"

We did the Shira route which starts at the base of the mountain at
1800m, and you walk through the rain forest to the higher altitudes.
It's all very pretty. The first day we realised that it was going to
be a difficult trip. I'm from Johannesburg (about 1700m) so I
struggled slightly less than my friends from sea level even though
they are significantly fitter than me.

The first night was spent at 3840m and we were exhausted. Every step
was a challenge, and sleeping was difficult. Those of us who started
taking Diamox the day before had an easier time than those who didn't
take it. It was very cold at night, and very damp. The next morning
was miserable before the sun rose, after which it started to warm up a
bit.

Our guides took us for a long walk up to about 4600m and then back
down to Shira camp at 3840m. The higher we got, the more difficult it
was to keep moving. The guides understand this, and they keep telling
you "Pole Pole" ("Slowly slowly"). It is so tempting to walk faster,
because your mind tells you that you should be able to, but walking
really slowly is actually the only way to do it. During this day I
thought that I was seriously in over my head. I even vaguely considred
giving up, but stuck it out.

As it turned out, we all had bad patches over the next few days where
we all considered throwing in the towel.

We spent a total of 6 days (5 days up, one day down) on the mountain.
I think that an extra day on the mountain is a good idea, but not if
the weather is lousy. One of the most difficult things to cope with is
being exhausted AND cold and wet. An extra day of being cold and wet
will do more to kill your morale than it will help with
aclimitization.

At altitudes above 5000 things are very different from just a few
hundred meters below. Our final ascent was from Barafu camp 4600m at
about midnight. My worst memory about the entire ascent and descent
was that my hands sweated and the sweat froze inside my gloves. I was
in absolute agony for about 6 hours. The climb is gruelling even for
fit people, and it's a pure test of determination. Most of it is done
in the dark, and you can't see the top until you're virtually there.
All the while there are people comming past you on the way down. These
are the ones who can't make it, and there's a deathly quiet as they
pass you.

Above 5500m you literally walk a few steps, take a rest, then a few
steps, then another rest. I really struggled from then on. You MUST
keep hydrated, but our water had frozen (it was in insulated camel
pouches in our packs but still froze) so we were feeling lousy. We had
raging headaches, and all suffered from nausea. The only way I could
keep going was to get angry and focus my anger on the mountain. The
summit was a bitter disapointment. The blizzard was so bad that we
couldn't even get a photograph, and we spent literally 30 seconds
there and turned back.

The descent to Barafu is, in some ways, more difficult than the
ascent. The route is covered with volcanic scree and you slip and
slide downwards, really punishing your feet and your knees. My
girlfriend reacted very badly at the summit, and collapsed (mostly due
to dehydration I think). We had a very horrible experience getting her
down, and I still get the shivvers when I think about ascent to
Barafu. By the time we reached our tents at Barafu I was absolutely
shattered. I climbed into the tent and wept like a baby. She had to be
carried down to Mweka camp very urgently to avoid complications at
altitude.

Was it a good experience? Definitely not. It was tough, uncomfortable,
and exhausting. And, if I'm perfectly honest about it, the achievement
of actually doing it only starts to sink in a year or two later. We
had no feeling of elation, no feelings of achievement at the time.

Am I glad I did it? Yes I am. I learned a lot about myself and my
abilities, and more importantly, I learned a lot about trust and
loyalty. My relationship with my girlfriend was immesurably
strengthened by the climb in a kind of kinship that can only be borne
out of hardship and real danger. We have also become close friends
with two of the four who climbed with us. With the other two people,
we walked onto the mountain as close friends, and left the mountain as
strangers. I have vowed never to consider them as friends again, and
will NEVER, EVER, trust them again. (I don't want to go into it, but
suffice it to say that I felt bitterly betrayed by them during the
final ascent where they were completely self-absorbed and selfish)

Now the cruncher... Would I do it again? Strangely, Yes I would. I
desperately want to try it in good weather, and with better
preparation.

With hindsight, what would I have done differently?
1) I wouldn't have gone with Chris and Natalie
2) I would have made sure my hands could be warm and dry on the ascent
(better gloves, with wicking effect)
3) I wouldn't have used leather boots. Although my boots were
comfortable, they were very cold in the snow for 8 hours. I think that
lighter waterproof Goretex boots would be better.
4) I'd have been far more careful of my water intake during the ascent

I've just looked over my post, and I see I've rambled a bit... so I'll
keep quiet now :-)

Regards,
Marc


Wow, thanks for writing such a detailed and evocative post. I really
appreciate it.

The biggest question I now have, one that will only be answered once
the trip begins, is how the altitude will affect me and the others in
our party. It's pretty shocking to read about how difficult it can be.


I sometimes feel like I have "proven" myself at altitude with 4
separate trips to 4200m over the past 7-8 years, but I try to remain
cautious and not take anything for granted. All of my trips were day
trips, twice by bicycle and twice by hiking trail, very high exertion
levels each time.

But, the important distinction between these and a true high altitude
trip like Kili is that I won't get to recover and sleep back down at
2500m or so. Or at least that is my understanding. I live at 100m
elevation, so I won't have any advantage there.

Thanks in particular for the advice about water on summit day, and
about gloves. I will take that to heart. I also have leather boots,
but I have treated them with waterproofing sealant, and they have a
Goretex liner anyway -- so they should be OK.

-Tom

  #6  
Old January 27th, 2006, 10:01 AM posted to rec.travel.africa
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Kilimanjaro: access to Reusch Crater via Stella Point?

Hi all

I did Kili in 2003 at the end of September, and the weather was excellent.
Went up via Rongai route, and spent 5 days on the hill, which was plenty -
3.5 days up and 1.5 days down.

I can't say I noticed any other paths at the top - too busy breathing and
grinning.

Yes it was very cold on the final ascent (we recorded -15C) but fortunately
dry.
One trick for keeping your drinking water from freezing is to use a platypus
and hose - with all of it inside your coat. Just leave the end outside and
when you have drunk, *blow* back down the tube to empty it! (the platypus
obviously needs to be top-down for this to work as some air enters the bag).

I used lightweight goretex boots - Berghaus GTX - and they were absolutley
fine. I did however buy a pair of extra thick socks for the summit day. I
also used two layers of gloves - one thermal and one set of thick mits.
I found hiking poles really really helpful as well. Apart from taking the
strain off the lower legs and offering balance (and brakes on the descent!)
they are good for just leaning on when you need a breather.

Not sure how I would have faired in bad weather, but in our group of 11 only
two didn't make it.

Lots of photos and more text on the site -
http://www.tomalin.org/charles/tanzania/index.htm

Good luck!
Any questions get in touch

Charles

"Tom B." wrote in message
ups.com...
Marc Lurie wrote:
Hi Tom,

I did the climb with 5 friends. None of us has any altitude training,
and only straightforward mountain hiking experience. Three of us were
extremely fit (one is a fitness nutcase), the other three (including
my girlfriend and me) range from reasonably fit to "could run a mile
if I had to, but I wouldn't want to"

We did the Shira route which starts at the base of the mountain at
1800m, and you walk through the rain forest to the higher altitudes.
It's all very pretty. The first day we realised that it was going to
be a difficult trip. I'm from Johannesburg (about 1700m) so I
struggled slightly less than my friends from sea level even though
they are significantly fitter than me.

The first night was spent at 3840m and we were exhausted. Every step
was a challenge, and sleeping was difficult. Those of us who started
taking Diamox the day before had an easier time than those who didn't
take it. It was very cold at night, and very damp. The next morning
was miserable before the sun rose, after which it started to warm up a
bit.

Our guides took us for a long walk up to about 4600m and then back
down to Shira camp at 3840m. The higher we got, the more difficult it
was to keep moving. The guides understand this, and they keep telling
you "Pole Pole" ("Slowly slowly"). It is so tempting to walk faster,
because your mind tells you that you should be able to, but walking
really slowly is actually the only way to do it. During this day I
thought that I was seriously in over my head. I even vaguely considred
giving up, but stuck it out.

As it turned out, we all had bad patches over the next few days where
we all considered throwing in the towel.

We spent a total of 6 days (5 days up, one day down) on the mountain.
I think that an extra day on the mountain is a good idea, but not if
the weather is lousy. One of the most difficult things to cope with is
being exhausted AND cold and wet. An extra day of being cold and wet
will do more to kill your morale than it will help with
aclimitization.

At altitudes above 5000 things are very different from just a few
hundred meters below. Our final ascent was from Barafu camp 4600m at
about midnight. My worst memory about the entire ascent and descent
was that my hands sweated and the sweat froze inside my gloves. I was
in absolute agony for about 6 hours. The climb is gruelling even for
fit people, and it's a pure test of determination. Most of it is done
in the dark, and you can't see the top until you're virtually there.
All the while there are people comming past you on the way down. These
are the ones who can't make it, and there's a deathly quiet as they
pass you.

Above 5500m you literally walk a few steps, take a rest, then a few
steps, then another rest. I really struggled from then on. You MUST
keep hydrated, but our water had frozen (it was in insulated camel
pouches in our packs but still froze) so we were feeling lousy. We had
raging headaches, and all suffered from nausea. The only way I could
keep going was to get angry and focus my anger on the mountain. The
summit was a bitter disapointment. The blizzard was so bad that we
couldn't even get a photograph, and we spent literally 30 seconds
there and turned back.

The descent to Barafu is, in some ways, more difficult than the
ascent. The route is covered with volcanic scree and you slip and
slide downwards, really punishing your feet and your knees. My
girlfriend reacted very badly at the summit, and collapsed (mostly due
to dehydration I think). We had a very horrible experience getting her
down, and I still get the shivvers when I think about ascent to
Barafu. By the time we reached our tents at Barafu I was absolutely
shattered. I climbed into the tent and wept like a baby. She had to be
carried down to Mweka camp very urgently to avoid complications at
altitude.

Was it a good experience? Definitely not. It was tough, uncomfortable,
and exhausting. And, if I'm perfectly honest about it, the achievement
of actually doing it only starts to sink in a year or two later. We
had no feeling of elation, no feelings of achievement at the time.

Am I glad I did it? Yes I am. I learned a lot about myself and my
abilities, and more importantly, I learned a lot about trust and
loyalty. My relationship with my girlfriend was immesurably
strengthened by the climb in a kind of kinship that can only be borne
out of hardship and real danger. We have also become close friends
with two of the four who climbed with us. With the other two people,
we walked onto the mountain as close friends, and left the mountain as
strangers. I have vowed never to consider them as friends again, and
will NEVER, EVER, trust them again. (I don't want to go into it, but
suffice it to say that I felt bitterly betrayed by them during the
final ascent where they were completely self-absorbed and selfish)

Now the cruncher... Would I do it again? Strangely, Yes I would. I
desperately want to try it in good weather, and with better
preparation.

With hindsight, what would I have done differently?
1) I wouldn't have gone with Chris and Natalie
2) I would have made sure my hands could be warm and dry on the ascent
(better gloves, with wicking effect)
3) I wouldn't have used leather boots. Although my boots were
comfortable, they were very cold in the snow for 8 hours. I think that
lighter waterproof Goretex boots would be better.
4) I'd have been far more careful of my water intake during the ascent

I've just looked over my post, and I see I've rambled a bit... so I'll
keep quiet now :-)

Regards,
Marc


Wow, thanks for writing such a detailed and evocative post. I really
appreciate it.

The biggest question I now have, one that will only be answered once
the trip begins, is how the altitude will affect me and the others in
our party. It's pretty shocking to read about how difficult it can be.


I sometimes feel like I have "proven" myself at altitude with 4
separate trips to 4200m over the past 7-8 years, but I try to remain
cautious and not take anything for granted. All of my trips were day
trips, twice by bicycle and twice by hiking trail, very high exertion
levels each time.

But, the important distinction between these and a true high altitude
trip like Kili is that I won't get to recover and sleep back down at
2500m or so. Or at least that is my understanding. I live at 100m
elevation, so I won't have any advantage there.

Thanks in particular for the advice about water on summit day, and
about gloves. I will take that to heart. I also have leather boots,
but I have treated them with waterproofing sealant, and they have a
Goretex liner anyway -- so they should be OK.

-Tom



  #7  
Old January 27th, 2006, 11:38 AM posted to rec.travel.africa
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default Kilimanjaro: access to Reusch Crater via Stella Point?

1) I have to agree about hiking poles. They're excellent.
2) Our platypus bags were in our backpacks and they froze. (We did
blow the water back up the tube). Perhaps carrying the water close to
the body is a good idea.
4) If I do it again, I'll be looking at the Goretex boots like the
Berghaus.

I'd like to try it again, but in good weather :-)

Marc

On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 09:01:56 GMT, "Rydale"
wrote:

Hi all

I did Kili in 2003 at the end of September, and the weather was excellent.
Went up via Rongai route, and spent 5 days on the hill, which was plenty -
3.5 days up and 1.5 days down.

I can't say I noticed any other paths at the top - too busy breathing and
grinning.

Yes it was very cold on the final ascent (we recorded -15C) but fortunately
dry.
One trick for keeping your drinking water from freezing is to use a platypus
and hose - with all of it inside your coat. Just leave the end outside and
when you have drunk, *blow* back down the tube to empty it! (the platypus
obviously needs to be top-down for this to work as some air enters the bag).

I used lightweight goretex boots - Berghaus GTX - and they were absolutley
fine. I did however buy a pair of extra thick socks for the summit day. I
also used two layers of gloves - one thermal and one set of thick mits.
I found hiking poles really really helpful as well. Apart from taking the
strain off the lower legs and offering balance (and brakes on the descent!)
they are good for just leaning on when you need a breather.

Not sure how I would have faired in bad weather, but in our group of 11 only
two didn't make it.

Lots of photos and more text on the site -
http://www.tomalin.org/charles/tanzania/index.htm

Good luck!
Any questions get in touch

Charles

"Tom B." wrote in message
oups.com...
Marc Lurie wrote:
Hi Tom,

I did the climb with 5 friends. None of us has any altitude training,
and only straightforward mountain hiking experience. Three of us were
extremely fit (one is a fitness nutcase), the other three (including
my girlfriend and me) range from reasonably fit to "could run a mile
if I had to, but I wouldn't want to"

We did the Shira route which starts at the base of the mountain at
1800m, and you walk through the rain forest to the higher altitudes.
It's all very pretty. The first day we realised that it was going to
be a difficult trip. I'm from Johannesburg (about 1700m) so I
struggled slightly less than my friends from sea level even though
they are significantly fitter than me.

The first night was spent at 3840m and we were exhausted. Every step
was a challenge, and sleeping was difficult. Those of us who started
taking Diamox the day before had an easier time than those who didn't
take it. It was very cold at night, and very damp. The next morning
was miserable before the sun rose, after which it started to warm up a
bit.

Our guides took us for a long walk up to about 4600m and then back
down to Shira camp at 3840m. The higher we got, the more difficult it
was to keep moving. The guides understand this, and they keep telling
you "Pole Pole" ("Slowly slowly"). It is so tempting to walk faster,
because your mind tells you that you should be able to, but walking
really slowly is actually the only way to do it. During this day I
thought that I was seriously in over my head. I even vaguely considred
giving up, but stuck it out.

As it turned out, we all had bad patches over the next few days where
we all considered throwing in the towel.

We spent a total of 6 days (5 days up, one day down) on the mountain.
I think that an extra day on the mountain is a good idea, but not if
the weather is lousy. One of the most difficult things to cope with is
being exhausted AND cold and wet. An extra day of being cold and wet
will do more to kill your morale than it will help with
aclimitization.

At altitudes above 5000 things are very different from just a few
hundred meters below. Our final ascent was from Barafu camp 4600m at
about midnight. My worst memory about the entire ascent and descent
was that my hands sweated and the sweat froze inside my gloves. I was
in absolute agony for about 6 hours. The climb is gruelling even for
fit people, and it's a pure test of determination. Most of it is done
in the dark, and you can't see the top until you're virtually there.
All the while there are people comming past you on the way down. These
are the ones who can't make it, and there's a deathly quiet as they
pass you.

Above 5500m you literally walk a few steps, take a rest, then a few
steps, then another rest. I really struggled from then on. You MUST
keep hydrated, but our water had frozen (it was in insulated camel
pouches in our packs but still froze) so we were feeling lousy. We had
raging headaches, and all suffered from nausea. The only way I could
keep going was to get angry and focus my anger on the mountain. The
summit was a bitter disapointment. The blizzard was so bad that we
couldn't even get a photograph, and we spent literally 30 seconds
there and turned back.

The descent to Barafu is, in some ways, more difficult than the
ascent. The route is covered with volcanic scree and you slip and
slide downwards, really punishing your feet and your knees. My
girlfriend reacted very badly at the summit, and collapsed (mostly due
to dehydration I think). We had a very horrible experience getting her
down, and I still get the shivvers when I think about ascent to
Barafu. By the time we reached our tents at Barafu I was absolutely
shattered. I climbed into the tent and wept like a baby. She had to be
carried down to Mweka camp very urgently to avoid complications at
altitude.

Was it a good experience? Definitely not. It was tough, uncomfortable,
and exhausting. And, if I'm perfectly honest about it, the achievement
of actually doing it only starts to sink in a year or two later. We
had no feeling of elation, no feelings of achievement at the time.

Am I glad I did it? Yes I am. I learned a lot about myself and my
abilities, and more importantly, I learned a lot about trust and
loyalty. My relationship with my girlfriend was immesurably
strengthened by the climb in a kind of kinship that can only be borne
out of hardship and real danger. We have also become close friends
with two of the four who climbed with us. With the other two people,
we walked onto the mountain as close friends, and left the mountain as
strangers. I have vowed never to consider them as friends again, and
will NEVER, EVER, trust them again. (I don't want to go into it, but
suffice it to say that I felt bitterly betrayed by them during the
final ascent where they were completely self-absorbed and selfish)

Now the cruncher... Would I do it again? Strangely, Yes I would. I
desperately want to try it in good weather, and with better
preparation.

With hindsight, what would I have done differently?
1) I wouldn't have gone with Chris and Natalie
2) I would have made sure my hands could be warm and dry on the ascent
(better gloves, with wicking effect)
3) I wouldn't have used leather boots. Although my boots were
comfortable, they were very cold in the snow for 8 hours. I think that
lighter waterproof Goretex boots would be better.
4) I'd have been far more careful of my water intake during the ascent

I've just looked over my post, and I see I've rambled a bit... so I'll
keep quiet now :-)

Regards,
Marc


Wow, thanks for writing such a detailed and evocative post. I really
appreciate it.

The biggest question I now have, one that will only be answered once
the trip begins, is how the altitude will affect me and the others in
our party. It's pretty shocking to read about how difficult it can be.


I sometimes feel like I have "proven" myself at altitude with 4
separate trips to 4200m over the past 7-8 years, but I try to remain
cautious and not take anything for granted. All of my trips were day
trips, twice by bicycle and twice by hiking trail, very high exertion
levels each time.

But, the important distinction between these and a true high altitude
trip like Kili is that I won't get to recover and sleep back down at
2500m or so. Or at least that is my understanding. I live at 100m
elevation, so I won't have any advantage there.

Thanks in particular for the advice about water on summit day, and
about gloves. I will take that to heart. I also have leather boots,
but I have treated them with waterproofing sealant, and they have a
Goretex liner anyway -- so they should be OK.

-Tom


  #8  
Old January 27th, 2006, 12:51 PM posted to rec.travel.africa
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Default Kilimanjaro: access to Reusch Crater via Stella Point?

Yet another tip:
Put your photo camera under your coat (not in the backpack).
The batteries won't like the cold!

Jan




  #9  
Old January 28th, 2006, 11:54 AM posted to rec.climbing,rec.backcountry,alt.rec.hiking,rec.travel.africa
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Default Kilimanjaro: access to Reusch Crater via Stella Point?

This might reach you too late, but in case your plans have been
delayed, here is a link that you might find useful
http://7summits.com/forum/index.php?topic=1154.0

 




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