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First Time on Safari to Africa Questions



 
 
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  #121  
Old December 15th, 2004, 03:54 PM
Joel
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Considering I started this thread I'd like to jump in a bit and offer
my take on this.

I normally like independent travel for several reasons. I am a
semi-professional photographer and I dislike package tours. I like the
freedom of exploring an area on my own timetable and setting my own
itinerary. For the most part this works fine for a US national park
strategy or for independent city touring. There are numerous lodging
choices for every accommodation and in most cases it's quite easy to
pick up and leave should your choice prove poor. Should one choose to
camp, the logistics are easy to put together. Depending upon where you
are the most dangerous thing to contend with from a wildlife
perspective is bears. There is a wealth of material available from
public and private sources on the national parks. Renting a car is
simple, roads are well paved and marked and are not dangerous. In some
ways I understand Eben's approach because I too have a hard time
understanding why people take packaged tours to national parks in the
U.S. it is so easy to do by yourself.
On the other hand I am finding Africa much harder to deal with as an
independent traveler in reference to safaris. Here is why:

1. Airfares from the US are prohibitively expensive. Yes there are
consolidators that one can use but most people do not go or understand
that route. Package tours do offer great airfares. There is a company
called UTG (US based) that has airfare with their packages for $1000 no
matter what the date. That is almost impossible for the average person
to get without a tremendous amount of running around.
2. Self driving is really not an option in Kenya. The majority of
Americans, myself included, do not drive standard shift. Furthermore I
think that a 5 hour drive from Nairobi to the Mara that requires a 4WD
vehicle is beyond the driving skills of 90% of the population. Sure we
own Jeep Cherokees, most are never taken off road. I'd be reluctant to
do so without more experience. It's not like I can call someone to get
a tow.
3. Independent camping is not an option. Pretty self-explanatory.
4. Lodging is limited. The available choices are expensive and you may
not necessarily get a better deal once you add in extras like game
drives, etc... Not all lodges provide this in the price. The Serena
properties are a perfect example.
5. Finding a guide company is problematic. Go on KATO's web site and
you will find many companies that offer safari. Most follow the same
itineraries. I've e-mailed several of them asking about customer
itineraries. I've received a response from one. Several of the
e-mails bounced back from the addresses that were provided on their Web
Sites. I can tell you that doesn't inspire much confidence. It's in
these situations where relying on a tour operator to take care of
logistics is comforting.

I have appreciated both Eben's and Liz's input to my original inquiry.
I've found Liz's sight very helpful in learning more about the areas
that I'd like to travel in. Travel is a very personal thing for
different people. Everyone's goals are different. While frustrating
for you Eben, I suspect that the tourist in that mini-bus is just as
thrilled as you are to be there and may not be interested in mingling
with the locals. For that matter the locals may not be interested in
mingling with you. I'm also spending a lot of time doing research.
Personally I enjoy it, but the average vacationer likes to be presented
with a package deal. I've also read many of Liz's post and while she
does mention several companies most are in direct response to someone
asking (and to be fair Eben, you did ask Liz as did I) and she doesn't
push or promote it. I would have no problem mentioning a company I
have done business and that I was happy with their service.

I also think the minibus issue is being beaten to death. One of the
primary reasons that I'm looking into a private safari is that I'm
concerned that I will be part of a tour that will come up to a group of
lions, take a snapshot and then want to leave. I personally believe
that to have a quality experience takes patience and observation. If I
found a group of 4 individuals who were like minded I'd have no
hesitation joining a tour group. As long as I had a window and a
photographic hatch I'm happy. Hint Hint... If you were planning to go
next year drop me a line and we can all book a private safari together.

For myself I'm working with someone now on a quote for a private
safari. Hopefully it will fit into my budget. If not, I have no
problem joining a tour and treating it as a scouting trip for a later
date. To each his own.

  #122  
Old December 15th, 2004, 04:17 PM
Joel
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Considering I started this thread I'd like to jump in a bit and offer
my take on this.

I normally like independent travel for several reasons. I am a
semi-professional photographer and I dislike package tours. I like the
freedom of exploring an area on my own timetable and setting my own
itinerary. For the most part this works fine for a US national park
strategy or for independent city touring. First there are numerous
lodging choices for every accommodation and in most cases it's quite
easy to pick up and leave should your choice prove poor. Should one
choose to camp, the logistics are easy to put together. Depending upon
where you are the most dangerous thing to contend with from a wildlife
perspective is bears. There is a wealth of material available from
public and private sources on the national parks. Renting a car is
simple, roads are well paved and marked and are not dangerous. In some
ways I understand Eben's approach because I too have a hard time
understanding why people take packaged tours to national parks in the
U.S. since it is so easy to do by yourself.
On the other hand I am finding Africa much harder to deal with as an
independent traveler in reference to safaris. Here is why:

1. Airfares from the US are prohibitively expensive. Yes there are
consolidators that one can use but most people do not go or understand
that route. Package tours do offer great airfares. There is a company
called UTG (US based) that has airfare with their packages for $1000 no
matter what the date. That is almost impossible for the average person
to get without a tremendous amount of running around.
2. Self driving is really not an option in Kenya. The majority of
Americans, myself included, do not drive standard shift. Furthermore I
think that a 5 hour drive from Nairobi to the Mara that requires a 4WD
vehicle is beyond the driving skills of 90% of the population. Sure we
own Jeep Cherokees, most are never taken off road. I'd be reluctant to
do so without more experience. It's not like I can call someone to get
a tow.
3. Independent camping is not an option. Pretty self-explanatory.
4. Lodging is limited. The available choices are expensive and you may
not necessarily get a better deal once you add in extras like game
drives, etc... Not all lodges provide this in the price. The Serena
properties are a perfect example.
5. Finding a guide company is problematic. Go on KATO's web site and
you will find many companies that offer safari. Most follow the same
itineraries. I've e-mailed several of them asking about customer
itineraries. I've received a response from one. Several of the
e-mails bounced back from the addresses that were provided on their Web
Sites. I can tell you that doesn't inspire much confidence. It's in
these situations where relying on a tour operator to take care of
logistics is comforting.

I have appreciated both Eben's and Liz's input to my original inquiry.
I've found Liz's sight very helpful in learning more about the areas
that I'd like to travel in. Travel is a very personal thing for
different people. Everyone's goals are different. While frustrating
for you Eben, I suspect that the tourist in that mini-bus is just as
thrilled as you are to be there and may not be interested in mingling
with the locals. For that matter the locals may not be interested in
mingling with you. I'm also spending a lot of time doing research.
Personally I enjoy it, but the average vacationer likes to be presented
with a package deal. I've also read many of Liz's post and while she
does mention several companies most are in direct response to someone
asking (and to be fair Eben, you did ask Liz as did I) and she doesn't
push or promote it. I would have no problem mentioning a company I
have done business and that I was happy with their service.

I also think the minibus issue is being beaten to death. One of the
primary reasons that I'm looking into a private safari is that I'm
concerned that I will be part of a tour that will come up to a group of
lions, take a snapshot and then want to leave. I personally believe
that to have a quality experience takes patience and observation. If I
found a group of 4 individuals who were like minded I'd have no
hesitation joining a tour group. As long as I had a window and a
photographic hatch I'm happy. Hint Hint... If you were planning to go
next year drop me a line and we can all book a private safari together.

For myself I'm working with someone now on a quote for a private
safari. Hopefully it will fit into my budget. If not, I have no
problem joining a tour and treating it as a scouting trip for a later
date. To each his own.

  #123  
Old December 15th, 2004, 04:17 PM
Joel
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

Considering I started this thread I'd like to jump in a bit and offer
my take on this.

I normally like independent travel for several reasons. I am a
semi-professional photographer and I dislike package tours. I like the
freedom of exploring an area on my own timetable and setting my own
itinerary. For the most part this works fine for a US national park
strategy or for independent city touring. First there are numerous
lodging choices for every accommodation and in most cases it's quite
easy to pick up and leave should your choice prove poor. Should one
choose to camp, the logistics are easy to put together. Depending upon
where you are the most dangerous thing to contend with from a wildlife
perspective is bears. There is a wealth of material available from
public and private sources on the national parks. Renting a car is
simple, roads are well paved and marked and are not dangerous. In some
ways I understand Eben's approach because I too have a hard time
understanding why people take packaged tours to national parks in the
U.S. since it is so easy to do by yourself.
On the other hand I am finding Africa much harder to deal with as an
independent traveler in reference to safaris. Here is why:

1. Airfares from the US are prohibitively expensive. Yes there are
consolidators that one can use but most people do not go or understand
that route. Package tours do offer great airfares. There is a company
called UTG (US based) that has airfare with their packages for $1000 no
matter what the date. That is almost impossible for the average person
to get without a tremendous amount of running around.
2. Self driving is really not an option in Kenya. The majority of
Americans, myself included, do not drive standard shift. Furthermore I
think that a 5 hour drive from Nairobi to the Mara that requires a 4WD
vehicle is beyond the driving skills of 90% of the population. Sure we
own Jeep Cherokees, most are never taken off road. I'd be reluctant to
do so without more experience. It's not like I can call someone to get
a tow.
3. Independent camping is not an option. Pretty self-explanatory.
4. Lodging is limited. The available choices are expensive and you may
not necessarily get a better deal once you add in extras like game
drives, etc... Not all lodges provide this in the price. The Serena
properties are a perfect example.
5. Finding a guide company is problematic. Go on KATO's web site and
you will find many companies that offer safari. Most follow the same
itineraries. I've e-mailed several of them asking about customer
itineraries. I've received a response from one. Several of the
e-mails bounced back from the addresses that were provided on their Web
Sites. I can tell you that doesn't inspire much confidence. It's in
these situations where relying on a tour operator to take care of
logistics is comforting.

I have appreciated both Eben's and Liz's input to my original inquiry.
I've found Liz's sight very helpful in learning more about the areas
that I'd like to travel in. Travel is a very personal thing for
different people. Everyone's goals are different. While frustrating
for you Eben, I suspect that the tourist in that mini-bus is just as
thrilled as you are to be there and may not be interested in mingling
with the locals. For that matter the locals may not be interested in
mingling with you. I'm also spending a lot of time doing research.
Personally I enjoy it, but the average vacationer likes to be presented
with a package deal. I've also read many of Liz's post and while she
does mention several companies most are in direct response to someone
asking (and to be fair Eben, you did ask Liz as did I) and she doesn't
push or promote it. I would have no problem mentioning a company I
have done business and that I was happy with their service.

I also think the minibus issue is being beaten to death. One of the
primary reasons that I'm looking into a private safari is that I'm
concerned that I will be part of a tour that will come up to a group of
lions, take a snapshot and then want to leave. I personally believe
that to have a quality experience takes patience and observation. If I
found a group of 4 individuals who were like minded I'd have no
hesitation joining a tour group. As long as I had a window and a
photographic hatch I'm happy. Hint Hint... If you were planning to go
next year drop me a line and we can all book a private safari together.

For myself I'm working with someone now on a quote for a private
safari. Hopefully it will fit into my budget. If not, I have no
problem joining a tour and treating it as a scouting trip for a later
date. To each his own.

  #124  
Old December 15th, 2004, 08:07 PM
Hans-Georg Michna
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On 14 Dec 2004 17:25:15 -0800, "Joel"
wrote:

Considering I started this thread I'd like to jump in a bit and offer
my take on this.


Joel,

let me add some more comments.

I normally like independent travel for several reasons. I am a
semi-professional photographer and I dislike package tours.


As soon as you are into photography, you cannot have other
travellers in your car. Taking just one photo can take hours (in
some cases days, weeks, months, or years).

There simply is no other choice than to do it alone or with a
hired driver. But the driver is usually more hindrance than
help, unless he is a photographer himself. I once tried to
explain sunlight angles to a driver, but it didn't work.

2. Self driving is really an option for many of us. The majority of
Americans, myself included, do not drive standard shift. Furthermore I
think that a 5 hour drive from Nairobi to the Mara that requires a 4WD
vehicle is beyond the driving skills of 90% of the population. Sure we
own Jeep Cherokees, most are never taken off road. I'd be reluctant to
do so without more experience.


True, but if you are intelligent and can learn, read the Jeep
chapter in http://www.michna.com/kenya.htm and learn how to use
a jeep properly. Then buy and learn how to use a suitable GPS,
download the routes from http://www.michna.com/gps.htm and
upload them into the GPS.

Actually the driving itself poses not many problems to
newcomers. Obstacles are a bigger problem, but there are no
difficult ones on the way to Masai Mara.

I agree entirely that self-driving is not a reasonable option
for many. But there are quite a few who believe they cannot do
it for the wrong reasons, and these persons can, in fact, do it,
once they are given the missing information. In my experience
the real problems are in the following areas:

1. Typical third world country traps, i.e. misunderstandings and
wrong assumptions about the country and particularly its people.
Avoiding crime is one major topic here. This is mainly a matter
of having the information.

2. Driving. Taking a jeep over obstacles. Driving on the left
side of the road. Navigating (though the GPS makes that quite
easy nowadays). This is mainly a matter of learning.

3. Knowing the few species of animals that potentially attack
cars and behaving accordingly. Knowing minimum distances and
understanding how these animals signal their irritation.

Just one rule, to give a simple example. As long as an animal
keeps feeding as before, while having you in sight, you are not
too close.

3. Independent camping is not an option. No need to expand on this.


Oh yes, there is a need to expand on this, because most people
start with completely false assumptions. I'm sure that some
travellers would change their minds on this, once they have all
the information. Not everybody, obviously, but some.

Some say that they cannot do it, but when you insist, you find
that they could do it very well, once they are given the
necessary information. They often just don't want to do it
because they prefer the comfort and luxury of a wildlife lodge.
I often prefer that too, but a visit to Kenya wouldn't be quite
complete for me if I didn't spend a few nights out in the bush.

4. Lodging is limited. The available choices are expensive and you may
not necessarily get a better deal once you add in extras like game
drives, etc...


That depends a lot on the season. I usually visit Kenya in June
for this reason. Rarely is a lodge completely full, and in the
places I usually visit, there are several other lodges nearby.

I never book anything in Kenya, except the occasional
accommodation in Nairobi, and I remember one case when I arrived
at Fig Tree Tented Camp in Masai Mara, only to find the lodge
shut down and empty. It took me a while to find somebody, and
then they literally switched the lodge on for us. Take the hint
and go in June, if you have no overriding reason to choose
another month.

By the way, I'm planning a self-drive safari in June 2006
(originally planned for 2005, but recently put off for another
year). If anybody would be interested to join in, that could
probably be arranged. I don't earn any money from this, I only
do it for fun. On the other hand, everybody is free to do what
he wants, and I act only as a voluntary guide and source of
information. I do try to get the participants to drive in a
convoy though. Participants have to hire their jeeps, bring
along one GPS and one printed copy of
http://www.michna.com/kenya.htm per jeep. (:-) One of the
vehicles will probably be a four seater aircraft for added joy
and security.

Hans-Georg

--
No mail, please.
  #125  
Old December 15th, 2004, 08:07 PM
Hans-Georg Michna
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

On 14 Dec 2004 17:25:15 -0800, "Joel"
wrote:

Considering I started this thread I'd like to jump in a bit and offer
my take on this.


Joel,

let me add some more comments.

I normally like independent travel for several reasons. I am a
semi-professional photographer and I dislike package tours.


As soon as you are into photography, you cannot have other
travellers in your car. Taking just one photo can take hours (in
some cases days, weeks, months, or years).

There simply is no other choice than to do it alone or with a
hired driver. But the driver is usually more hindrance than
help, unless he is a photographer himself. I once tried to
explain sunlight angles to a driver, but it didn't work.

2. Self driving is really an option for many of us. The majority of
Americans, myself included, do not drive standard shift. Furthermore I
think that a 5 hour drive from Nairobi to the Mara that requires a 4WD
vehicle is beyond the driving skills of 90% of the population. Sure we
own Jeep Cherokees, most are never taken off road. I'd be reluctant to
do so without more experience.


True, but if you are intelligent and can learn, read the Jeep
chapter in http://www.michna.com/kenya.htm and learn how to use
a jeep properly. Then buy and learn how to use a suitable GPS,
download the routes from http://www.michna.com/gps.htm and
upload them into the GPS.

Actually the driving itself poses not many problems to
newcomers. Obstacles are a bigger problem, but there are no
difficult ones on the way to Masai Mara.

I agree entirely that self-driving is not a reasonable option
for many. But there are quite a few who believe they cannot do
it for the wrong reasons, and these persons can, in fact, do it,
once they are given the missing information. In my experience
the real problems are in the following areas:

1. Typical third world country traps, i.e. misunderstandings and
wrong assumptions about the country and particularly its people.
Avoiding crime is one major topic here. This is mainly a matter
of having the information.

2. Driving. Taking a jeep over obstacles. Driving on the left
side of the road. Navigating (though the GPS makes that quite
easy nowadays). This is mainly a matter of learning.

3. Knowing the few species of animals that potentially attack
cars and behaving accordingly. Knowing minimum distances and
understanding how these animals signal their irritation.

Just one rule, to give a simple example. As long as an animal
keeps feeding as before, while having you in sight, you are not
too close.

3. Independent camping is not an option. No need to expand on this.


Oh yes, there is a need to expand on this, because most people
start with completely false assumptions. I'm sure that some
travellers would change their minds on this, once they have all
the information. Not everybody, obviously, but some.

Some say that they cannot do it, but when you insist, you find
that they could do it very well, once they are given the
necessary information. They often just don't want to do it
because they prefer the comfort and luxury of a wildlife lodge.
I often prefer that too, but a visit to Kenya wouldn't be quite
complete for me if I didn't spend a few nights out in the bush.

4. Lodging is limited. The available choices are expensive and you may
not necessarily get a better deal once you add in extras like game
drives, etc...


That depends a lot on the season. I usually visit Kenya in June
for this reason. Rarely is a lodge completely full, and in the
places I usually visit, there are several other lodges nearby.

I never book anything in Kenya, except the occasional
accommodation in Nairobi, and I remember one case when I arrived
at Fig Tree Tented Camp in Masai Mara, only to find the lodge
shut down and empty. It took me a while to find somebody, and
then they literally switched the lodge on for us. Take the hint
and go in June, if you have no overriding reason to choose
another month.

By the way, I'm planning a self-drive safari in June 2006
(originally planned for 2005, but recently put off for another
year). If anybody would be interested to join in, that could
probably be arranged. I don't earn any money from this, I only
do it for fun. On the other hand, everybody is free to do what
he wants, and I act only as a voluntary guide and source of
information. I do try to get the participants to drive in a
convoy though. Participants have to hire their jeeps, bring
along one GPS and one printed copy of
http://www.michna.com/kenya.htm per jeep. (:-) One of the
vehicles will probably be a four seater aircraft for added joy
and security.

Hans-Georg

--
No mail, please.
  #126  
Old December 15th, 2004, 08:35 PM
Liz
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In message .com
"Joel" wrote:

In some ways I understand Eben's approach because I too have a hard time
understanding why people take packaged tours to national parks in the
U.S. it is so easy to do by yourself.

I agree 98% with you, but my issue on travelling on my own might make me
more flexible even on that. We had a great four weeks doing the SW
deserts/Yellowstone in our own car in '01, no problems.


2. Self driving is really not an option in Kenya. The majority of
Americans, myself included, do not drive standard shift.

[OT] Something I always wondered:
When you do your driving test, do you do it using manual gears?
In the UK, if you do your test in an automatic car, you get a restricted
licence only to drive automatic cars (or at least that was the case when I
did my test).

Furthermore I
think that a 5 hour drive from Nairobi to the Mara that requires a 4WD
vehicle is beyond the driving skills of 90% of the population. Sure we
own Jeep Cherokees, most are never taken off road. I'd be reluctant to
do so without more experience. It's not like I can call someone to get
a tow.

Even worse than that is the driving in Nairobi: it's absolutely crazy!
Last time we were there ('02), we were told proudly that they were putting
in roundabouts 'just like in the UK' - well, yes, but they didn't use themn
like we do: everyone just barged in regardless. Even D. who'd been driving
since he was 17 and drives on the 'wrong side of the road' in Europe and US,
wouldn't dream of doing it - even though it's on the 'right' side!


3. Independent camping is not an option. Pretty self-explanatory.
4. Lodging is limited. The available choices are expensive and you may
not necessarily get a better deal once you add in extras like game
drives, etc... Not all lodges provide this in the price. The Serena
properties are a perfect example.
5. Finding a guide company is problematic. Go on KATO's web site and
you will find many companies that offer safari. Most follow the same
itineraries. I've e-mailed several of them asking about customer
itineraries. I've received a response from one. Several of the
e-mails bounced back from the addresses that were provided on their Web
Sites. I can tell you that doesn't inspire much confidence. It's in
these situations where relying on a tour operator to take care of
logistics is comforting.

I would have no problem mentioning a company I
have done business and that I was happy with their service.

In the past, I used to mention companies I understood to be reliable
although I hadn't used them, to be seen to be fair. However, I contacted one
of them last year to enquire about going to Madagascar and got a very, very
strange series or responses, then they just didn't reply to three emails in
a row.
To be honest, even recommending a company I've used is risky: a lot depends
on just how well you gel with your driver/guide. One year we had a guide who
we'd never have become really friendly with, but he knew his job and we
still had a great trip. Last year we spend the first few days with a guide
while our 'usual' guide was dealing with a family funeral: he was very
quiet, hardly any chit-chat, but again he knew his job.


I also think the minibus issue is being beaten to death. One of the
primary reasons that I'm looking into a private safari is that I'm
concerned that I will be part of a tour that will come up to a group of
lions, take a snapshot and then want to leave.

That's a risk.
Another risk is the opposite: you're with a group that wants to see nothing
but cats and you charge from one 'vehicle ring' to the next (lions sleep or
are dozy for much of the day, which doesn't make for great photos). Maybe
your fellow-travellers wouldn't be interested in e.g. dikdiks or
klipspringers etc. and if you wanted to spend time with them, it would be a
constant compromise.
Worst possible scenario: they'd have bored, noisy kids (or be noisy
themselves: it happens!) but to be honest, I've seen *very* few kids on
safari, and some of them are really interested.

I personally believe
that to have a quality experience takes patience and observation. If I
found a group of 4 individuals who were like minded I'd have no
hesitation joining a tour group. As long as I had a window and a
photographic hatch I'm happy. Hint Hint... If you were planning to go
next year drop me a line and we can all book a private safari together.

Hahahahahahahahaha
fx sparks flying /fx
(I'm limited to travel in early-mid July.)

For myself I'm working with someone now on a quote for a private
safari. Hopefully it will fit into my budget.

I hadn't heard of the Elephant Watch camp either until you mentioned it.
I'm sure as you say it will be a fantastic experience.
If it does turn out to be too expensive, you could ask for another quote
with less expensive lodges - as Hans-Georg says, Samburu Lodge and Samburu
Serena are perfectly nice, but obviously much bigger than the camp and are
almost certain to be much cheaper. Like him, I haven't been to Intrepids, I
think they're a bit more expensive, and not in the 'heart' of the main game
area, but I believe it's high quality.
To be honest, even the Block and Serena lodges are 'plusher' than I need,
but there isn't really anything price/facility-wise between them and
'serviced camping'.

Anyway, I'm sure you'll have a really great time whatever you decide.
Even if you don't post back before you go, please post after you come back
to tell us how you enjoyed it!

Safari njema

Liz


--
Virtual Liz now at http://www.v-liz.com
Kenya; Tanzania; Namibia; India; Seychelles; Galapagos
"I speak of Africa and golden joys"
  #127  
Old December 15th, 2004, 08:35 PM
Liz
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In message .com
"Joel" wrote:

In some ways I understand Eben's approach because I too have a hard time
understanding why people take packaged tours to national parks in the
U.S. it is so easy to do by yourself.

I agree 98% with you, but my issue on travelling on my own might make me
more flexible even on that. We had a great four weeks doing the SW
deserts/Yellowstone in our own car in '01, no problems.


2. Self driving is really not an option in Kenya. The majority of
Americans, myself included, do not drive standard shift.

[OT] Something I always wondered:
When you do your driving test, do you do it using manual gears?
In the UK, if you do your test in an automatic car, you get a restricted
licence only to drive automatic cars (or at least that was the case when I
did my test).

Furthermore I
think that a 5 hour drive from Nairobi to the Mara that requires a 4WD
vehicle is beyond the driving skills of 90% of the population. Sure we
own Jeep Cherokees, most are never taken off road. I'd be reluctant to
do so without more experience. It's not like I can call someone to get
a tow.

Even worse than that is the driving in Nairobi: it's absolutely crazy!
Last time we were there ('02), we were told proudly that they were putting
in roundabouts 'just like in the UK' - well, yes, but they didn't use themn
like we do: everyone just barged in regardless. Even D. who'd been driving
since he was 17 and drives on the 'wrong side of the road' in Europe and US,
wouldn't dream of doing it - even though it's on the 'right' side!


3. Independent camping is not an option. Pretty self-explanatory.
4. Lodging is limited. The available choices are expensive and you may
not necessarily get a better deal once you add in extras like game
drives, etc... Not all lodges provide this in the price. The Serena
properties are a perfect example.
5. Finding a guide company is problematic. Go on KATO's web site and
you will find many companies that offer safari. Most follow the same
itineraries. I've e-mailed several of them asking about customer
itineraries. I've received a response from one. Several of the
e-mails bounced back from the addresses that were provided on their Web
Sites. I can tell you that doesn't inspire much confidence. It's in
these situations where relying on a tour operator to take care of
logistics is comforting.

I would have no problem mentioning a company I
have done business and that I was happy with their service.

In the past, I used to mention companies I understood to be reliable
although I hadn't used them, to be seen to be fair. However, I contacted one
of them last year to enquire about going to Madagascar and got a very, very
strange series or responses, then they just didn't reply to three emails in
a row.
To be honest, even recommending a company I've used is risky: a lot depends
on just how well you gel with your driver/guide. One year we had a guide who
we'd never have become really friendly with, but he knew his job and we
still had a great trip. Last year we spend the first few days with a guide
while our 'usual' guide was dealing with a family funeral: he was very
quiet, hardly any chit-chat, but again he knew his job.


I also think the minibus issue is being beaten to death. One of the
primary reasons that I'm looking into a private safari is that I'm
concerned that I will be part of a tour that will come up to a group of
lions, take a snapshot and then want to leave.

That's a risk.
Another risk is the opposite: you're with a group that wants to see nothing
but cats and you charge from one 'vehicle ring' to the next (lions sleep or
are dozy for much of the day, which doesn't make for great photos). Maybe
your fellow-travellers wouldn't be interested in e.g. dikdiks or
klipspringers etc. and if you wanted to spend time with them, it would be a
constant compromise.
Worst possible scenario: they'd have bored, noisy kids (or be noisy
themselves: it happens!) but to be honest, I've seen *very* few kids on
safari, and some of them are really interested.

I personally believe
that to have a quality experience takes patience and observation. If I
found a group of 4 individuals who were like minded I'd have no
hesitation joining a tour group. As long as I had a window and a
photographic hatch I'm happy. Hint Hint... If you were planning to go
next year drop me a line and we can all book a private safari together.

Hahahahahahahahaha
fx sparks flying /fx
(I'm limited to travel in early-mid July.)

For myself I'm working with someone now on a quote for a private
safari. Hopefully it will fit into my budget.

I hadn't heard of the Elephant Watch camp either until you mentioned it.
I'm sure as you say it will be a fantastic experience.
If it does turn out to be too expensive, you could ask for another quote
with less expensive lodges - as Hans-Georg says, Samburu Lodge and Samburu
Serena are perfectly nice, but obviously much bigger than the camp and are
almost certain to be much cheaper. Like him, I haven't been to Intrepids, I
think they're a bit more expensive, and not in the 'heart' of the main game
area, but I believe it's high quality.
To be honest, even the Block and Serena lodges are 'plusher' than I need,
but there isn't really anything price/facility-wise between them and
'serviced camping'.

Anyway, I'm sure you'll have a really great time whatever you decide.
Even if you don't post back before you go, please post after you come back
to tell us how you enjoyed it!

Safari njema

Liz


--
Virtual Liz now at http://www.v-liz.com
Kenya; Tanzania; Namibia; India; Seychelles; Galapagos
"I speak of Africa and golden joys"
  #128  
Old December 15th, 2004, 09:22 PM
Liz
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In message
Hans-Georg Michna wrote:


There simply is no other choice than to do it alone or with a
hired driver. But the driver is usually more hindrance than
help, unless he is a photographer himself. I once tried to
explain sunlight angles to a driver, but it didn't work.


I've always been very lucky with my drivers in Kenya/Tanzania, then.
Even on my first trip when we had a learner driver he had the angles sussed
out. Though travelling with others is always a compromise: lots of times D.
wants to draw something he can see through a telescope: too far to
photograph. That's when I chat to the driver!

Our driver in Namibia didn't seem to have the angles for photography sussed
at all, but it was only an issue in Etosha, because everywhere else we were
out of his vehicle for photography.

Slainte

Liz

--
Virtual Liz now at http://www.v-liz.com
Kenya; Tanzania; Namibia; India; Seychelles; Galapagos
"I speak of Africa and golden joys"
  #129  
Old December 15th, 2004, 09:22 PM
Liz
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
Default

In message
Hans-Georg Michna wrote:


There simply is no other choice than to do it alone or with a
hired driver. But the driver is usually more hindrance than
help, unless he is a photographer himself. I once tried to
explain sunlight angles to a driver, but it didn't work.


I've always been very lucky with my drivers in Kenya/Tanzania, then.
Even on my first trip when we had a learner driver he had the angles sussed
out. Though travelling with others is always a compromise: lots of times D.
wants to draw something he can see through a telescope: too far to
photograph. That's when I chat to the driver!

Our driver in Namibia didn't seem to have the angles for photography sussed
at all, but it was only an issue in Etosha, because everywhere else we were
out of his vehicle for photography.

Slainte

Liz

--
Virtual Liz now at http://www.v-liz.com
Kenya; Tanzania; Namibia; India; Seychelles; Galapagos
"I speak of Africa and golden joys"
  #130  
Old December 15th, 2004, 10:17 PM
external usenet poster
 
Posts: n/a
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PLEASE IGNORE MY PREVIOUS POST (74) ! That was written a while ago and
popped up today - out of context. My apologies.

I am raising the white flag.

I grew up in Africa, I spent most of my time here, I have businesses in
East and South Africa. I spend most of my time between East & Southern
Africa. As a result I see many strange things on safari and even
stranger advice on these boards and I wanted to get the following
points across. I think I did and now will go away happily.

1. The private safari option is more affordable than most want to
believe. In Arusha, Nairobi and other cities one can hire a very
dependable vehicle (with driver/guide) for not much more than the
prices you pay on minibus group tours. This is fact and not fiction. If
you're a single traveler (like me), your driver/guide is great dinner
company and you will have a lifelong friend for future visits.

2. It is easy nowadays to do business from overseas with East and
Southern Africa safari companies. They do it all the time and you will
be in good hands.

3. Compare shop, and do some research before hopping on a packaged
tour. Most of these tours visit the wrong places at the wrong time
while staying in the wrong places.

I admire how Hans is doing it but I simply don't have that confidence!
So I stick with a local driver/guide.
Good luck, Joel. You are doing it the right way!

 




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