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Italy vacation tips for 2004.
I just came back from Italy (March 1, 2004). This will be short for
now. If someone shows some interest, I will post more. I have noticed that most posts in all newsgroups on Italy seem to be from the time lire was the legal tender. I heard no mention of lire at all during the 11 days I was in Italy. There were booths and money changing stores that had it listed, but I was surprised that even the little tiny shops had everything in Euros. It made things a LOT easier. Italy was just as I expected. A real treat and something just this side of a dream. The weather was not so good. It rained often and the temperature was in the 40's most of the time. I will say that the lousy weather did little to hamper a good time. I have spent all morning (this is the day after my return) going through the 400 to 500 digital photos I took. I compared them to photos a friend of mine took in 1999 when I spent hours looking at them and could not believe the color and tonal range of the buildings and pictures (and the color on digital cameras was not that good back then). Mine are even better and I can't believe I was there. In a month I am sure I will view it as a dream I had. We went to Rome and then took a train Florence and Venice. It was a great idea. The train ride was fast, unbelievably quiet and scenically beautiful. Venice had snow (yes, snow!). There was about an inch or so on the ground most of the couple of days we were there. Because of that and the unpredictability of the weather at the end of February, I would recommend visiting about a month or so later. Some tips: Have Euros available. Many places take credit cards, but my wife (who went in 1999) feels that they are not as willing to take credit cards as they were back then. Most all restaurants take them, but some of the small shops did not. Take a bank atm card along and extract cash from your account. It was easy as there are atm machines everywhere and I could get cash from my checking account any time I wanted to. Get a phone card in a tobacco shop (they are everywhere). Phone cards are super cheap. We got a $5 phone card and it had something like 180 minutes on it. That is less than 3 cents a minute to the United States!!!!!! I still cannot believe that. I still have about 100 minutes on it and my wife talked to our son on it (now, that DOES impress me). I did not see a pickpocket once while I was there, but don't let that go to your head. All the Italian guides tell you (many, many times) to keep your guard up. I heard some people that did get hit. Do be careful of the shyster that might try to pull something on you. Two rackets I fell for. We had a 6:30 AM flight out of Venice. We reluctantly took the water taxi (at 90 euros) in order to ensure that we would make it in time because of the weather. The taxi was great and we arrived in less than 1/2 hour from pickup at our hotel (the taxi came up one of the canals that was in front of our hotel). If you can split the cost with another couple or two, do it. When we arrived at the airport, I learned that Marco Polo had built a new terminal about a year ago. There were a couple of guys waiting for us that wanted to take us to the airport. They had a panel truck with just a front seat and a cargo area behind the seat. DO NOT TAKE THIS TO THE TERMINAL. There is a shuttle bus about the size of a city transit bus that will take you for free. These buzzards were on us as soon as we arrived. They wanted 20 euros for the 300 yard trip to the terminal and they did not tell us until we got to the terminal. They implied that they were the shuttle service. I heard that you don't want to have people handle your luggage, but I guess they caught me off guard. I told them I did not have 20 euros and they took me back in front of the old terminal. If you get in this situation, just wait for the FREE transit bus or walk to the new terminal (it is only about 300 yards past the old terminal). Can you believe the gall of charging 20 euros (over $25 US) to take you 300 yards??!!! The other thing we did wrong (that turned out OK) was to have a guy convince us to take a free water taxi to a murano glass factory. Mark me, I was not totally stupid here. I did check out his vendor's license badge he had, but I was concerned. It turned out to be a very interesting and quick way to get to the island and a free trip back (although we did have a 24 hour water bus ticket). The only drawback is that you feel pressured to buy something -- sort of like the free vacations to sell you a vacation home. If you can resist that, then this is a nice way to get a demonstration. You probably will find the cost of the products a little higher, so you need to be an informed buyer. Oh well, I typed longer than I thought I would. If there is interest, I might add to this. |
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Italy vacation tips for 2004.
Eric Anderson wrote:
There were booths and money changing stores that had it listed, but I was surprised that even the little tiny shops had everything in Euros. There is little to be surprised. Liras were retired from general circulation two years ago. Changing them now at Banca d'Italia is a bit of a hassle, so everybody made sure to change leftover liras as soon as possible. -- Luca Logi - Firenze - Italy e-mail: |
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Italy vacation tips for 2004.
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Italy vacation tips for 2004.
I love your account of the trip. I will be going there this summer and would
like to know if you are planning to post your pictures for all of us to enjoy? Regards, Egmont Em_CT |
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Italy vacation tips for 2004.
I was in Italy Feb 1-27, starting Venice, then Florence, Perugia, Orvieto and Rome. Venice: VERY cold (near freezing) and very foggy..could hardly see across the grand canal..snowed the day after I left. I stayed at the Don Orione Artigianelli convent, great location at Zattere, just minutes from the Accademia Bridge. Very modern, spotless rooms, nice bathrooms, friendly staff, 1am curfew. They take familes and singles, no credit cards. I paid 67euro/night (4 nights), self-serve breakfast included. The Accademia vaporetto stop is being repaired, and is temporarily at San Vio, just a little further down the canal. I left just a day or two before the official start of Carnival, and they were putting up stands and booths and all sort of equipment in the various piazzas. I spent my days exploring the nooks and crannies of San Polo, Cannareggio, the old Jewish Quarter, Dorsoduro, and the back side of San Marco (going toward the Arsenale), etc., etc. Florence: some light drizzle, but a few sunny days...took a 1 day cooking class (divinacucina.com); great fun, started with a grand tour of the central market; because I was with Judy (the instructor) everyone wanted to give me free samples of food, had a tasting of balsamic vinegars, one was 50 years old. I decided what i wanted to make, she bought the ingredients, we hit the bread store, the wine shop, cooked and ate and drank. Was there 6 days (had seen all the museums on previous stops), so walked and walked, explored all the neighborhoods. Went to the Sunday flea market at San Spirito. So much to see I never did manage any daytrips out of the city. Stayed at the Ferretti, kind of funky 2 star, but really nice and helpful staff. Self-serve breakfast. Great location near the Duomo and SM Novella. Perugia: weather much like Florence, Hotel Fortuna very nice place, good location just off Piazza d'Italia. Nice breakfast included...ham and cheese and hard boiled eggs, yogurt in addition to the regular bread/rolls. Perugia was my base to explore Assisi and Gubbio as well (by local bus). Ristorante Altromonde serves veal stuffed with cheese and grilled which is paradise. Assisi & Gubbio: beautiful, beautiful, beautiful Orvieto: cold and rainy. took shelter in the Duomo and a ton of museums. Finally (really, to preserve my health), forced to take cover in a ceramics store which ultimately did some serious damage to my credit card balance. Duomo partly under scaffolding. Many restaurants not open in the evenings (too early in the year?). Hotel Corso...nice room, but one of those showers above the toilet. Was going to try the convent there, but they had a 10pm curfew, and restaurants opened late for dinner. Had stayed at the Corso several years ago so knew what to expect. Rome: warm, some light rain, one day of heavier rain....many more tourists than I had seen thus far. The Borghese is still grand (oh, those Bernini sculptures!), walking from there to the top of the Spanish Steps through the grounds is a pleasant way to spend some time. Went to the Sunday flea market at Trastavere, great fun, spent the entire morning there. Then walked to the Mouth of Truth, then back along the Circus Maximus. Lots of guys running around trying to sell you umbrellas...can't walk 10 feet without another one in your face. Had the BEST pizza at Zio Ciro, facing the front of the Pantheon. Again, walked virtually everywhere. Trains ran on time, busses too; hotels were 2-3 star level, modest but clean and fine, not too expensive. I traveled alone (I turned 56 in Rome), all public transport, never felt unsafe or threatened. Of course, I use a money belt and an inside pocket, no wallet or purse...(I travel pretty light...when I checked in at Seattle my carry-on bag - with the clothes in it - weighed 12 pounds. I had a small daypack which weighed another 3-4 [film, camera, journal, etc.]) The Leonardo Express from Termini to Fiumicino was handy, quick and only 9.5 euro. People were very friendly. Internet cafes are everywhere. I walked on average 10-12 miles/day (took my pedometer.) Climbed enough stairs and hills to age my knees 10 times over. (And despite it all, came home weighing EXACTLY the same as the day I left! Arrrrrgh!) The wine and food are not too expensive, but the dollar stinks against the Euro..whatever the Euro price just add a third..the rate averaged $1.28+ to the euro...but I have had enough pizza for awhile, and pasta too...I managed 36 flavors of gelato...would have done more but hardly ate any in Venice...too darn cold, and fewer gelaterias open in winter, apparently... attended a free concert in the Jesuit Church in Rome one Sunday evening which was really neat...Shipped home some souvenirs, maps, books, etc. via Mailboxes Etc. (they are everywhere too). Much easier than carrying that stuff around. ATMs abound...used my ATM card linked to my checking account (credit union), got favorable exchange rate, no surcharges or additional fees. There seem to be more that use Cirrus than Plus, but both can be found. Used credit cards for the hotels and a few pieces of jewelry (oh, and those ceramic pieces I bought and had shipped), but cash for all my meals...just easier. Note on fashion trends for the ladies (and the "bent" guys I guess too): Fur coats were everywhere, even on nice days; some days I'm out in a sweater and people are in fur, big scarves under their necks like they are in Alaska. Pointy shoes and boots with skinny high heels; so pointy the point extends like 3 inches beyond the toes..almost like witch shoes. Brightly patterned tights and panty hose, with wild patterns. Mini skirts! REALLY mini skirts, sometimes pleated, with over the thigh stockings. Cross between a hooker and a schoolgirl. Guess they can't decide - that old Hooker/Virgin thing going on I guess. coming home was an adventure...we left rome 3 hours late, I missed my connection in Philadelphia, airline put a bunch of us up in a hotel with a meal for the night. Immigration, baggage and customs in Phil took a good 1.5 hrs, then reticketing took another 1.5 (they had to rebook close to half the passsengers...my guess is at least 150 missed connections). Good news is I got home a day late, but I got bumped to first class for Phil-Sea! I could get used to that! All in all a wonderful trip (my third to Italy thus far). |
#6
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Italy vacation tips for 2004.
Carole Allen wrote:
Venice: VERY cold (near freezing) and very foggy..could hardly see across the grand canal..snowed the day after I left. ... Trivia question: Which is farther north: Venice, or Halifax, Nova Scotia? If the question takes you aback, go check a map. |
#7
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Italy vacation tips for 2004.
Carole Allen wrote: (snip) I walked on average 10-12 miles/day (took my pedometer.) Climbed enough stairs and hills to age my knees 10 times over. (And despite it all, came home weighing EXACTLY the same as the day I left! Arrrrrgh!) (snip) ....but I have had enough pizza for awhile, and pasta too...I managed 36 flavors of gelato...would have done more but hardly ate any in Venice.. Maybe the two balanced out ;-) Nice trip report! -Robert |
#8
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Italy vacation tips for 2004.
Carole Allen wrote:
(snip) I walked on average 10-12 miles/day (took my pedometer.) Climbed enough stairs and hills to age my knees 10 times over. (And despite it all, came home weighing EXACTLY the same as the day I left! Arrrrrgh!) (snip) ...but I have had enough pizza for awhile, and pasta too...I managed 36 flavors of gelato...would have done more but hardly ate any in Venice.. On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 05:10:06 GMT, robert stephens wrote: Maybe the two balanced out ;-) Nice trip report! -Robert Thx...that's what I figured. At least I didn't come home weighing MORE! Oh, a few more things I forgot...saw a nun out lunching with her family downing a big mug of beer....looked strange (now wine would not have surprised me at all!) I may be a lapsed Catholic but I miss the candles you could light for making a small offering...only a few churches had them...most had these electric things, like those lights people put in their windows at Christmas. I like the smell of the burning wax. LOL, what is the world coming to? Before I went I really worked on the language. I had the numbers, days of the week, lots of vocabulary down pretty pat. Not enough for really fluent conversations, but enough to understand when they answered me in Italian. And to understand announcements on the trains, at the stations, to get directions, etc. Waiters always wanted to give me the English menus, but I preferred ordering from the local ones. As I mentioned in another post, I wore basic black...pants, shirts, coat, shoes, gloves...with a few scarves tossed in for color...they held up well and I never felt out of place or like I stood out in a crowd. In fact, despite the fact that I don't look remotely Italian, I frequently had people stop and ask me a question in Italian (usually an older man or woman). |
#9
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Italy vacation tips for 2004.
On Wed, 03 Mar 2004 04:26:35 GMT, (Carole
Allen) wrote: I was in Italy Feb 1-27, starting Venice, then Florence, Perugia, Orvieto and Rome. Great trip report! ----------- Barbara Vaughan My email address is my first initial followed by my surname at libero dot it I answer travel questions only in the newsgroup |
#10
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Italy vacation tips for 2004.
"Carole Allen" wrote in message ... Carole Allen wrote: Before I went I really worked on the language. I had the numbers, days of the week, lots of vocabulary down pretty pat. Not enough for really fluent conversations, but enough to understand when they answered me in Italian. And to understand announcements on the trains, at the stations, to get directions, etc. Waiters always wanted to give me the English menus, but I preferred ordering from the local ones. We also worked on the language before we went, but our kids didn't want to get involved. However, when it comes to menus, the kids couldn't understand the English menus, and ended up learning to ask for menus in Italian, so they could get the Italian menus too. So yes, you do learn some Italian when eating out at Italian restaurants in the US. |
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