Western Australia

Hi group,



My husband and I will be travelling to Western Australia in May, arriving in
Perth. We'll be staying for three months, leaving from Darwin (NT) in July.

We'll be travelling in a campervan, a 2 wheel drive.



I read the Lonely Planet, Footprint, the Calm website and
westernaustralia.net, so we are aware of all the major attractions and will
definitely see them all. Well, we'll try to J .

Any Western Australians out here (I know there are a few) who could give us
a few tips on the not so obvious things to do/see/stay?



Our interests a camping at quiet (coastal) national parks / quiet and
small caravan parks, guided bushwalking trips, having a beer and a meal at a
local pub/café/RSL/whatever, sip wine and watch the world go by, wildlife,
natural "wonders", food in general, BBQ in particular, having a laugh, well,
lots of things actually.



Well, 8 more weeks to go before we leave. I can hardly wait.
--
gwendolen from NL

This is the last time I'll type a post in Word and then copy and paste .
Sorry for all the extra spaces and this:

Well, we'll try to J .

Should be:
Well, we'll try to :-)
--
gwendolen

"gwendolen" wrote in message
...
Hi group,

Our interests a camping at quiet (coastal) national parks / quiet and
small caravan parks, guided bushwalking trips, having a beer and a meal at
a
local pub/café/RSL/whatever, sip wine and watch the world go by, wildlife,
natural "wonders", food in general, BBQ in particular, having a laugh,
well,
lots of things actually.

Seems like you're perfect for WA (or vice-versa). On the south coast, you
can't beat some of the National Parks for lonely stretches of beach, rocky
headlands, and nearby forest, wineries and interesting towns. The beaches
near Esperence are every bit as beautiful as they say in the guide books.
Heading west from there, the coastline around Albany-Denmark-Walpole is
spectacular. Many small places to camp. Take a side trip to the Stirling
Ranges (look out for Wedge-tailed eagles and western rock wallabies) - the
camp ground there is nice. Around Mt Barker and Denmark are some very nice
wineries, and the Karri and Tingle forests near Walpole are beautiful - many
nice tracks to drive and/or walk along.

Although the area can be pretty, I might skip Margaret River, since it's
more developed than the southern coast.

Heading north from Perth, Kalbarri has some nice gorges and is interesting
for a couple of days. Alternatively you could travel east (or north from
Esperence if you go south from Perth around the coast from west to east) to
the goldfields (Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie) and then drive north past
Leanora/Sandstone/Meekatharra. This drive will allow you to see the (IMO)
incredibly interesting history of the outback goldfields, and give you a
taste for the hardships the early gold prospectors faces. Then north from
there to the Pilbara (and my WA knowledge finishes at this point).

Remember that in WA you can camp just about anywhere in the outback as long
as you are more than a certain distance from the nearest caravan park (not
difficult to be) and as long as you respect the local land-owners. This is a
nice way to do it - many times our family would just drive the campervan off
the road down a side trck a few hundred yards and make camp. Look up at th
night sky from a remote camp in the outback and you'll be astonished at the
stars - no light pollution and the southern hemisphere points directly at
the Milky Way.

Around Perth - spend some time in Fremantle. Some good pubs and cafes, and
great seafood by the fishing harbour. For a wonderful dinner looking out to
sea watching the sun set, try the Trigg Island Cafe. The steak and seafood
there is very good. It's BYO or licensed, so you can take a bottle of wine
with you. Avoid the Blue Duck Inn at Cottelsoe - despite its location, the
food is lousy, IMO. Sunset beer at the Cottelsoe Hotel can be fun, though
loud at times.

Have a great trip!

Tom

"Tom Johnstone" wrote in message
...

Heading north from Perth, Kalbarri has some nice gorges and is interesting
for a couple of days. Alternatively you could travel east (or north from
Esperence if you go south from Perth around the coast from west to east)
to
the goldfields (Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie) and then drive north past
Leanora/Sandstone/Meekatharra. This drive will allow you to see the (IMO)
incredibly interesting history of the outback goldfields, and give you a
taste for the hardships the early gold prospectors faces. Then north from
there to the Pilbara (and my WA knowledge finishes at this point).


In the Pilbara don't miss Karajini National Park. You can camp in the park
for a small fee in designated areas. Spectacular narrow gorges you can
explore.
North of the Pibara you should bypass Port Hedland (not much good) and drive
on to the De Grey River for a free camping spot including bush toilets.
There are a number of these along the road between Hedland and Broome. On
this stretch visit 80 Mile Beach. THere is a very good caravan park there
with lots of shady sites. Just remember though that the period you will be
there it will be very busy as just about every Aussie retiree will hitch up
his caravan and travel north in the northern dry season. After 80 Mile Beach
there is Port Smith some 20 km off the road but worth a few days. If you are
after something rustic go to Barn Hill. We went thger last September and
enjoyed it immensly.
Broome is very busy and I suggest you ring and book a spot before arriving.
There are 5 or 6 caravan parks (some of them huge) but every year they turn
lots of people away.
After Broome the Kimberly. The most spectaular drive there is from Derby to
Kununurra along the Gibb River Road. Lots of kilometres of unsealed gravel
or worse. NOT recommended for a two wheel drive camper, but it has been
done. If the camper is rented the owners will prohibit you from taking it
off the bitumen! A short (3 -5 day 4WD tour can be booked in Broome or Derby
for this area and if this is your only trip to Australia you should do it!
See if you can get one that goes to Mitchell Falls.
Along the bitumen the Bungle Bungles are a no miss but once again they are
off the bitumen. Try a tour from Halls Creek or Kununurra.
Now my knowledge stops so maybe someone else can take over!

Gerrit - Perth

Tom Johnstone schreef:
Seems like you're perfect for WA (or vice-versa).

Thanks :-)

(snipped some great tips)

Heading north from Perth, Kalbarri has some nice gorges and is
interesting for a couple of days. Alternatively you could travel east
(or north from Esperence if you go south from Perth around the coast
from west to east) to the goldfields (Coolgardie and Kalgoorlie) and
then drive north past Leanora/Sandstone/Meekatharra. This drive will
allow you to see the (IMO) incredibly interesting history of the
outback goldfields, and give you a taste for the hardships the early
gold prospectors faces. Then north from there to the Pilbara (and my
WA knowledge finishes at this point).

I just had a look at the map and the road doesn't seem to be bitumen between
Leonara and Meekatharra. We're in a rented van, so we are restricted in
travelling.
We were thinking of travelling to Kalgoorlie from Perth. Stay a few days and
check out the area. Perhaps go on of one of Geoffrey Stokes's tours. Then
travel south to Esperance and stay at Cape Le Grand National Park. After
that just hop from one park to the other along the coast back to Perth.
Thanks for mentioning the wedge-tails and the rock wallabies in Stirling
Range national park. We'll definitely stay there too.

Remember that in WA you can camp just about anywhere in the outback
as long as you are more than a certain distance from the nearest
caravan park (not difficult to be) and as long as you respect the
local land-owners. This is a nice way to do it - many times our
family would just drive the campervan off the road down a side trck a
few hundred yards and make camp.

Great tip. Thanks.

Around Perth - spend some time in Fremantle. Some good pubs and
cafes, and great seafood by the fishing harbour. For a wonderful
dinner looking out to sea watching the sun set, try the Trigg Island
Cafe. The steak and seafood there is very good. It's BYO or licensed,
so you can take a bottle of wine with you. Avoid the Blue Duck Inn at
Cottelsoe - despite its location, the food is lousy, IMO. Sunset beer
at the Cottelsoe Hotel can be fun, though loud at times.

Thanks so much for your reply Tom. You've been very helpful. We owe you one!

Have a great trip!

Thanks, I'm sure we will.
--
gwendolen

I just had a look at the map and the road doesn't seem to be bitumen between
Leonara and Meekatharra. We're in a rented van, so we are restricted in
travelling.

Kal is definitely worth a trip. Be sure to check out the daily detonations
at the "big pit" just outside of town (around 1700 IIRC). Hay St. is legend
in itself, well worth a look whether or not you're "into that." You can
take a brothel tour (no cameras!) at Langtrees.

I'd skip the fossicking.

Be sure to check out the sandalwood tracks. Locals can point you to some
areas that may even still have some old rails.

Meeka is a dismal little town IMHO. Many who are passing through are coming
or going from the Gunbarrel or Canning Stock Routes (Wiluna is the actual
southern terminus but Meeka seems to be a stop for these purposes too).



We were thinking of travelling to Kalgoorlie from Perth. Stay a few days and
check out the area. Perhaps go on of one of Geoffrey Stokes's tours. Then
travel south to Esperance and stay at Cape Le Grand National Park.

Most definitely. Cap Le Grande is a must-see. If you climb Frenchman's
Peak on a clear day, you can see...well, forever. Watch your step though -
there was a tiger snake minding his own business when I was there, and I'm
sure he had mates!


After
that just hop from one park to the other along the coast back to Perth.
Thanks for mentioning the wedge-tails and the rock wallabies in Stirling
Range national park. We'll definitely stay there too.

Watch the wedgies in the road, now that you mention it. They will feed on
the carrion in the road, which is usually in the middle. Since the roads
are narrow and the birds are heavy, they will often take off slowly and in a
way you cannot steer around them. Can make a real mess out of your
windscreen, not to mention the destruction of a threatened and magnificent
eagle.

Around Perth - spend some time in Fremantle.

Agreed, there's a fair bit of history in Freo. It can get a little
rambunctious though on the scraggly-chinned backpacker front.

Gerrit 't Hart schreef:
In the Pilbara don't miss Karajini National Park. You can camp in the
park for a small fee in designated areas. Spectacular narrow gorges
you can explore.

We plan to go to Karajini National Park. Our travel agent mentioned
something about old asbestos mines somewhere in the region. Do you know
which area to avoid?

North of the Pibara you should bypass Port Hedland (not much good)
and drive on to the De Grey River for a free camping spot including
bush toilets. There are a number of these along the road between
Hedland and Broome.

Sounds excellent.

Broome is very busy and I suggest you ring and book a spot before
arriving.

Book a few days in advance or should I make that a week?

After Broome the Kimberly. The most spectaular drive there is from
Derby to Kununurra along the Gibb River Road. Lots of kilometres of
unsealed gravel or worse. NOT recommended for a two wheel drive
camper, but it has been done.

We are thinking about booking a tour to do a bit of the track. I'll remember
about Mitchell Falls. Thanks.

Along the bitumen the Bungle Bungles are a no miss but once again
they are off the bitumen. Try a tour from Halls Creek or Kununurra.
Now my knowledge stops so maybe someone else can take over!

We won't miss the Bungle Bungles. We'll book a tour, one of those small
plane or *shudder* helicopter tours and stay a day and a night.

Thanks a million Gerrit. We owe you a large beer too.
--
gwendolen

We plan to go to Karajini National Park. Our travel agent mentioned
something about old asbestos mines somewhere in the region. Do you know
which area to avoid?

Fugedabudid....Witnoom is supposedly "no go," but a few hours aren't going
to hurt you (there are still a few people about with all kinds of literature
on it, including asbestos concentrations in the air versus the surrounding
area). I wouldn't go sniffing rocks in the gorge (lovely drive and great
photo ops) but other than that...

Tom Price is still in operation AFAIK.



North of the Pibara you should bypass Port Hedland (not much good)

Agreed, unless you want to claim refugee status.


and drive on to the De Grey River for a free camping spot including
bush toilets. There are a number of these along the road between
Hedland and Broome.

I didn't like Broome much, although admittedly the pearl fishery and
Japanese influence (including the cemetery) have their points of interest.
It is very expensive by Australian standards, a product of the gobs of
international money that flows in (the town even has an international
airport, whereupon you can walk across the field into town).


We won't miss the Bungle Bungles. We'll book a tour, one of those small
plane or *shudder* helicopter tours and stay a day and a night.

Check what's around - there are heaps of tours. Also, if you're doing the
Gibb River Road, try to get a departure that is staggered from the scores of
others. From the number of busses, they might as well open a Mickey D's on
the road....

Raffi Balmanoukian wrote:

Kal is definitely worth a trip. Be sure to check out the daily detonations
at the "big pit" just outside of town (around 1700 IIRC).

Yeah - the pit is amazing. I worked on it one summer, just as they were
starting to join up three separate holes and make one big one. It's
incredible how much rock they move in a day.

Meeka is a dismal little town IMHO. Many who are passing through are coming
or going from the Gunbarrel or Canning Stock Routes (Wiluna is the actual
southern terminus but Meeka seems to be a stop for these purposes too).

I think it's always been a bit of a dismal place. But the trip through
that area gives you a "warts and all" view of outback life in Australia.

We were thinking of travelling to Kalgoorlie from Perth. Stay a few days and
check out the area. Perhaps go on of one of Geoffrey Stokes's tours. Then
travel south to Esperance and stay at Cape Le Grand National Park.

Most definitely. Cap Le Grande is a must-see. If you climb Frenchman's
Peak on a clear day, you can see...well, forever. Watch your step though -
there was a tiger snake minding his own business when I was there, and I'm
sure he had mates!

He sure did. Last time we were down in the Stirlings and around Walpole
we cam across 3 tiger snakes. Usually slithering off the walking track
in front of us. When in doubt (say when the track is narrow and there's
a lot of underbrush), walk with good thumping steps - they'll get out of
the way when they feel the vibrations. Wouldn't be a bad idea to read up
on first-aid for snake bites (no torniquets!!). It'll probably never
happen, but if it does it's fairly simple to treat and unlike the myth,
you would normally have several hours to get treatment if you take the
right steps.

After

that just hop from one park to the other along the coast back to Perth.
Thanks for mentioning the wedge-tails and the rock wallabies in Stirling
Range national park. We'll definitely stay there too.

Sounds like a fine plan. Count on some cooler weather/rain and
especially wind when you're down that way. The rocky coast is
magnificent when the southern storms roll in.

Around Perth - spend some time in Fremantle.


Agreed, there's a fair bit of history in Freo. It can get a little
rambunctious though on the scraggly-chinned backpacker front.

I forgot - there are worse things to do than taking the ferry out to
Rottnest and spending the day riding a bike to the many secluded beaches
on the island. Then a beer at the pub before heading home.

Tom

"gwendolen" wrote in message
...

I just had a look at the map and the road doesn't seem to be bitumen
between
Leonara and Meekatharra. We're in a rented van, so we are restricted in
travelling.

Last year when we were in Broome we were told by someone who had just
travelled in the area that there is now a bitumen road between Sanstone and
Mt Magnet thus making it possible for you to do the SW the other way round
as in Perth Margaret River area, Albany, Esperance, Kalgoorlie, Mt Magnet,
Meekatharra.

Gerrit