car camping in Nor Cal and Oregon

Just completed a 10 day drive, bay area to Oregon and back and thought
I'd post some comments for future adventurers.

Parameters:
-July 5-15, so already quite hot along interstate 5.
-2 kids (11,14) , so can't camp more than 3 days in a row without a
revolt.
-No reservations and very little planning other than "head north then
turn around".
-Any campground must have piped water; flush toilets and shower a big
plus.
-Any hotel must have a pool.
-10 days.

Fowler's Camp
Packed up and headed up interstate 5 from about Sacramento. Consulted
campground book and targeted Fowler's Camp along the McCloud river
because it had a high scenic rating, required no reservations, had
piped water, and at 3500 ft should be somewhat out of the infernal heat
of Redding. Arriving mid day on a Tuesday there were plenty of sites
and we picked a good one. Sites on loop A are closer to the river but
packed together; loop B has some good sites with big trees with lots of
low foliage to offer some decent space and privacy. 3 waterfalls within
a mile, the Lower Falls (good) right at the camp, the Middle Falls
(great) a 1/2 mile beautiful walk up the river from camp, and the Upper
Falls (letdown after seeing the Middle) a short drive up the road. The
Middle Falls offers a great swimming hole at the base of the falls.
Turns out it is a very popular swimming spot, which I found out (very)
shortly after skinny dipping there.

Burney Falls
Did a day trip over to Burney Falls, about an hour to the east.
Fabulous falls with a fantastic loop walk around the falls and river.
Big state park there, wasn't too impressed with the looks of the
campsites. A lot of tall skinny trees with no branches, so can see
campers and RVs in all directions. Took showers there and visited the
much-touted swimming beach on the lake there. It was fine for kids, and
actually a respectable amount of shade for the sweltering parents. Swim
area is roped off and the sand looks like it was dumped there from
trucks and has been used as a ashtray for the last 30 years.

Castle Lake
Another day trip up to Castle Lake, west about an hour, up to 6500 ft.
Famous for its clear water, very nice, wish we had kayaks like some
lucky people there. Walked up the left shore to tiny Little Castle
Lake, some steep climbing required; much grumping from kids,
fortunately passed a snow patch which cheered them up. Camp ground
there too rustic for us; no running water.

Mt. Shasta (the town)
Very happy with the little town of Mt. Shasta right off Interstate 5 at
the base of the mountain. Could find tofu. Had all the shops we needed
within 2 downtown blocks.

Ashland-Medford
After 3 nights at Fowler's Camp (very happy with that choice) decided
to make headway into Oregon. Being the weekend now and havin spent our
max consecutive camping allowance, searched for a hotel. Drove through
Ashland, what's the big fuss? Looks like any other mall-infested
highway pit stop. Didn't stick around, went on to Medford which we knew
would be boring (we were correct) but it would serve as a base camp for
next day's drive to...

Crater Lake
Everybody says "oh and you just HAVE to do Crater Lake" when discussing
what to do in these parts, and yes, it is a gorgeous lake, the water a
stunning blue. But you know what, it is an awfully long drive to get
there, after 5 minutes of oohs and ahs there's absolutely nothing to
do, (ammenities include a bathroom, a crappy crowded gift shop and a
hot dog stand), you can't get to the water (without another long
drive), there's no place to stay up there, and the drive back is even
longer (came in from the south, out to the north). I say unless you
really enjoy driving and have a day to kill, skip it. We spent the rest
of the day driving all the way out to the Oregon coast at Coos Bay.

Coos Bay
Plenty of hotels, chose the Edgewater Inn. Marginally better than the
crappy Comfort Inn in Medford. Pitiful "continental" breakfasts in
both. Dinner out at nice-looking Benetti's Italian restaurant. Waited a
full hour. A full hour. Food OK but nothing worth an hour wait. Weather
actually a little drizzly out here, so glad we're not camping.

Bandon Safari Park
Stopped at the well-advertised Safari Park south of Bandon. Actually
very nice, had adorable tiger, bear, and cougar cubs for everybody to
pet and lots of goats, deer, llamas, peacocks and such walking around
offseting the sadness seeing the caged big cats and monkeys. Careful
feeding the goats. My kid got rammed pretty hard. Funny sure, but it
hurt! Recommended.

Cape Blanco
Targeted the campground at Cape Blanco a little south of Coos Bay for
the same reasons as befo no reservations required, piped water, high
scenic rating, and showers to boot. Plenty of available sites mid week,
but got incredibly lucky because one of the four cabins became
available due to a cancellation just as we drove up. The cabins are a
great deal at $35 and the first night was damp and blustery (the
campground is right on the beach cliffs, beautiful) so were were
delighted to be snug in a cabin (electric light and heater, bed pads
for a double and 2 bunk beds. You bring your own sleeping bags).
Weather for 2nd night lovely, a tent would have been fine. Beautiful
beach that goes on forever in both directions, virtually deserted,
plenty of driftwood. Spent two days making driftwood structures with
kids. Big success, highly recommended spot.

Rouge River
I had on my itinery a day trip up the Rouge River on a hydrofoil
speedboat, highly recommended by a coworker. But I got outvoted. Idea
of hours roaring up and down a river at high decibels did not appeal.

Brookings
At southwest tip of Oregon is the town of Brookings on the Chetco
river. Settled at the Loeb camp ground 7 miles up the river. Mosquitoes
a bit more plentiful here. River is quite floatable so went into town
and bought 4 blowup mattresses for $2.99 each. Worth it for a few nice
floats. Very hot. Campsite a bit disappointing after our previous
successes. Sites packed in pretty tight, some noisy neighbors. (Note:
just because you're camping doesn't mean you have to make a campfire.
The resulting air pollution is bad. Put on a sweater.) Out to dinner in
Brooking to a restaurant that deserves mention, the Rancho Viejo Family
Restaurant. I think what they must mean by Family Restaurant is that
each order can feed an entire family. My Fajita Mixta came on a huge
sizzling plate of grilled onions and peppers with huge amounts of
shrimp, scallops, and fish, with tortillas on the side, too much to eat
already, but then they brought the rest of the dish, an even larger
plate of rice and beans, lettuce, guacamole and sour cream. Spouse got
something similar, kids two more huge things; we had enough leftovers
for two more meals at camp. And it was cheap and good.

Trees of Mystery
A silly tourist trap along Hwy 101 after crossing the border into
California. Expensive $13.50 each, hokey displays of "American
Folklore", a tram ride to the top of a hill. Walk through the redwoods
might be interesting to some, but we're from redwood country so nothing
particulary mysterious for us; we got sucked in by the tram ride. Which
was lame. Slow, tedious, rather dull view from the top, then a long
wait for the slow ride back down. However, there is the option to walk
back down, which we chose. Walking sticks provided. Very steep downhill
in parts, rope rail handy. Not recommended for flip flops, but we made
it in them. Nice walk, but don't take your grandma on it. Indian museum
back at the main building actually quite good, and it is free.

Elk Prairie
Chose the Elk Prairie campground because it had all the right features,
except it accepted reservations. Sadly, they were all filled up, even
mid week. And so was every reservable campground anywhere nearby.
Moral: reserve in this area. Kept driving south, look for hotel.

Eureka
Rundown little town except for a few decent blocks downtown and some
great old Victorians. Plenty of hotels, chose the Best Western, $100ish
but quite nice, great pool, laundry facilities. Complimentary limousine
service from hotel to/from dinner. Kids loved that. Very nice eatery:
Hurricane Kate's.

Ferndale
Great little town, have to stop there. No seedy parts to avoid. Kinetic
Museum a must-see, old Americana available to see and buy.

Avenue of the Giants
This is a little detour along hwy 101, a little drive through a redwood
grove and then reconnecting with 101. Nothing very impressive, nothing
that you haven't already seen at this point from 101, so I say skip it,
save yourself some time.

Fort Bragg
Decided to hop over the the coast by getting off hwy 101 where the
famous hwy 1 starts, cutting over to Fort Bragg. Doesn't look far on
map, but this is one slow, windy road out to the coast. Several stops
along the way needed to avoid pukedom. Pulling into Fort Bragg from the
north, the first 4 hotels along the bluff were full or nearly full,
charging $250 night. You've got to be kidding. Plenty more $89 hotels
in town, we chose one, it was fine. An even more pitiful "continental"
breakfast. Missed the Glass Beach and Botanical Gardens, which may or
may not be the only things worth seeing in the otherwise forgettable
Fort Bragg.

Mendocino
Drive down hwy 1 is lovely but it is slow, and a bit windy in spots.
The few camping spots along the coast look pretty exposed to the
elements. Mendocino is cute, with a street or two of Carmel-like
galleries and such. Much local art. Were lucky to arrive during the
summer Music Festival and were able to watch some afternoon rehearsals
for free.

Bodega Bay
Finished up by eating dinner at The Tides in Bodega Bay, the fog
rolling in. Expensive, but reasonable food.


-td