Trip report: Istanbul, Turkey, 2005 (Long)

TRIP REPORT - TURKEY 2005 -- Ken Fine )

I visited Turkey August 21 to September 5, 2005 with my wife. Here's a grab
bag of observations and tips to benefit anyone else (including us who
decide to travel to Turkey in the future.

Turkey has made huge strides since our first visit in 1999. It continues to
be my favorite country in the world to visit: beautiful, intriguing,
endlessly charming, and populated with folks who have hearts of gold. The
stabilization of the Turkish lire and the poor performance of American
currency in recent years has made it somewhat more expensive to visit than
before, but among European countries Turkey remains a bargain.

Walking alone in all parts of Istanbul, we felt safe at all times of the day
and night - safer than in any American city we've visited, including our
hometown of Seattle. We walked through extremely conservative sections of
the city and places where poverty was obviously the norm. In all places we
felt welcome. The only threat to your personal safety is traffic-related:
watch out for speeding taxis and you'll be fine.

If I were a younger man I'd strongly consider moving to Istanbul. That's my
best endorsement of this fascinating place. Most Americans are woefully
ignorant of Turkey's secular tradition, tolerance, and other essential
aspects of its modern history. If you're headed to Turkey, you'll be
well-served by reading the friendly history manual before you go.

Turkey recently knocked six zeros off of its currency (really!) in an effort
to bring inflationary valuations back to earth. The 1-million note is now
just 1 YTR, commonly referred to as "1 lire". Older notes and coins with
denominations in the millions are still floating around and are negotiable.
The extreme differences between old and new currency make it unlikely that
anyone will confuse the two.

I've taken four trips to Turkey now, and have stayed in a variety of places
in Istanbul. Conclusion: Sultanhamet may be the first place that tourists
land when they come to Istanbul, but don't let that scare you away. It's the
most convenient place for a tourist to stay in the city: close to a host of
major and minor attractions, and near to low-cost mass transit that can get
you all over Istanbul.

During this latest trip stayed in two hostels, the ur-swanky "aija" hotel,
and a pension. While in Sultahamet, I stayed in the Istanbul Hostel and the
Orient Hostel. Both are excellent hostelling options and I recommend them
highly. Both include a substantial Turkish breakfast. If weather is hot,
lower floors may be most comfortable. Both places have very nice rooftop
bars; the view from the Orient is a little better. You do not need to be
staying in either hostel to enjoy the bars: just head upstairs, order a
drink, and kick back.

The Orient Hostel has a smashing view on its upper rooftop terrace which it
opens for its thrice-weekly all-you-can-eat "Barbeque Night". At the time of
my trip, this was bargain-priced at 10 lire and included a nice selection of
vegetarian appetizers.

For an even more amazing view: the "Seven Hills" hotel has one of the best
views in the city at its rooftop restaurant: on one side, an unobstructed
180-degree view of the Sea of Marmara snaking into the Bosphorus; on the
other, the looming domes of the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofia. Dinner comes
at a premium - 30 to 40 lire for a main course -- but it's probably worth
it. If you're feeling cheap, enjoy an 8-lire raki.

The Yulcelt Hostel, where I stayed in 1999 and enjoyed, is closed "for
renovations." I don't know when it's scheduled to re-open.

The Side Hotel and Pension (pronounced "See-day"), also on the main drag in
Sultanamet, was a great find: spotlessly clean, well-run, and inexpensive.

There is a fine laundry service on the same street as the Istanbul Hostel in
Sultanhamet; look for the "laundry" sign on a stone wall opposite. It costs
3 lire per kilo for a wash, dry, and folding, and typically has a 24-hour
turnaround. Be kind and throw in an extra lire or two for the washer-folk.

If you have money to burn and want the best of the best, Istanbul's "aija
hotel" is worth a long look; we enjoyed a single night there. Rooms are
decked out with a cool, clean aesthetic, and face the beautiful blue
Bosphorus. How cool is the aija hotel? So cool that you take a private ferry
across the Bosphorus to reach the place. So cool that its stark white lobby
looks like it was pulled off the space-station set of "2001: A Space
Odyssey." So cool that it will cost you hundreds of dollars a night to burn
your time here. If the price doesn't scare you, this unique place is worth a
night or two of your decadance.

Near to the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia is an excellent tourist information
booth. They will give you free maps of Istanbul - no need to buy a city plan
from a vendor.

Also near the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia is the "Hop On - Hop Off" city bus
tour. I'm usually quite averse to uber-touristy "experiences" like this, but
the increasing cost of taking taxis in Istanbul makes it an economical way
to get around for a day of far-flung adventure. You can "hop off" at any of
40-odd stops, but note that you need to +tell the driver+ that you want off.
Some other tourists left after just one circuit of the city and were quite
annoyed at the lack of stops - they didn't realize it was possible to
request a stop anywhere on the route. A day on the bus costs 25 lire,
replacing what would certainly be 100+ lire worth of taxi rides.

Pide is a kind of Turkish pizza baked in a brick oven and filled with the
usual suspects: garlic, chicken, sausage, cheese, and veggies. There's a
delicious pide place near the Grand Bazaar: if you're walking toward the
Bazaar on the tram line, the pide restaurant is on the first
diagonally-running street after you first see the large domes of the Bazaar.
Look for a place with a brick oven near the entrance and piles of fresh
oranges near the front door. They make a small and a large pide; the large
(6 lire) will stuff two full-sized adults. Also try the fresh-squeezed
orange and pomegranate juices (2-3 lire).

A number of places offer airport shuttle service from Sultanhamet 3 Euros
or 6 lire, cheap. There are departures throughout the day.

The tram is a good bet for transportation around Istanbul if it goes where
you want it to go. Avoid it during the 17:00 rush hour: since it's a
glorified streetcar, it slows to a crawl in heavy traffic. It's a good way
to get to Taksim: take the streetcar to the Karakoy stop, get off, take the
funicular railway up the hill, and take the Tunel streetcar to Taksim. Much
cheaper than a taxi.

Istiklal Caddesi - a long street running to Taksim Square -- is Istanbul's
shopping and bar district for the trendy youth set. Located in cosmopolitan
Beyoglu, it's a must-visit, if only to understand the extent of Istanbul's
secularism.

"Katon," on Istiklal Caddesi sells super-cool businesswear targeted at young
professionals: imagine a motley mix of Versache with Banana Republic and you've
almost got the look. Best part is that they can tailor jackets, pants, and
other dressy items to a custom fit in a couple of day's time. Both my wife
and I bought several snappy suits there. Katon blares an endless stream of
techno and it's staff speaks little English, so be prepared for a lot of
charades.

If you're looking for classic men's suits, "Sarar" offers the best in
Istanbul. They have outlets in several places throughout the city, including
an outlet in Istiklal Caddesi. You can get a really, really nice suit for
under $200 and have it custom-tailored to suit you.

The Tünel, running from the lower part of Istiklal Caddesi to Taksim Square,
resembles the San Francisco streetcars. I find the Tünel cheaper, more
charming, and more authentic. Be sure to take a trip on the Tunel while you're
in Istanbul.

Don't waste money on a private "Bosphorus cruise" - the public ferries are
cheap, uncrowded, and fun. Go to Eminonu - the tram can take you there. From
Eminonu, there are stations named after the place they go: Karakoy, Uskadar,
and Kadikoy. A fourth station will take you to the Princes' Islands.

The Princes' Island ferry trip is 2 lire. If you're headed to the large
island of Buyukada, try to get an express ferry, which run several times
daily. If you aren't on the express ferry, get off at the fifth ferry stop.
Buyukada's famous horse-and-buggy rides run 35 lire these days: steep. If
you want the donkey ride up to the monestary - worthwhile -- negotiate the
driver's "waiting fee" before you start the ride.

McDonalds is a convenient way to get wifi/ wireless Internet access in
Istanbul. Turkish Telecom charges for it, but the price is reasonable. Best
bet is to buy a week of access for about 40 lire. You may be able to pick
up an open connection in some of the touristed areas of Istanbul.

While you're enjoying the wifi, note that McDonalds makes the best
soft-serve chocolate ice cream in Istanbul. Their soft-serve is great, with
specks of mocha embedded throughout. Just 75 cents.

Wednesdays there is a huge sort of "yard sale" adjacent the Grand Bazaar and
one of Istanbul's universities.

We purchased the requisite Turkish carpet, leather jackets, tapestries, and
other Turkish gear in previous trips, so this time we looked for things
stranger and more exotic. Turkish light fixtures: why not? The Shishane
district, near Beyoglu, has dozens of stores specializing in handmade
fixtures. We bought two fixtures for $120-$150 each.

There's a total solar eclipse running through south-central Turkey March
2006. Having attended the Turkish eclipse of 1999, so tempting to go
again...

Feel free to write me if you have questions, (or
invitations to stay in your stylish digs the next time I visit Turkey.)

Be nice and ask before reprinting this without attribution.

-KF

Very nice report, Ken, Thanks!

Bob Vandiver

In article ,
(Bob Vandiver) wrote:

*From:* Bob Vandiver
*Date:* Fri, 09 Sep 2005 00:40:34 -0700

Very nice report, Ken, Thanks!

Seconded.

----------------------------------------------
The poster formerly known as .

What a great report!

I was in Turkey for a month about 10 years ago and loved it, you
certainly convinced me that I have to return again!

Did you notice if the American tourists were more respectfully dressed
in the mosques? I was so pleased that Turkey allows non-Muslims into
mosques to see the splendor, but I was horrified to see US tourists
dressed in shorts, halters, etc. I'd hate to see the access cut off.
I carried a small head scarf (I'm female) to put on and I got some
polite smiles from local people as a result.

SCD

On Thu, 8 Sep 2005 16:27:03 -0700, "Ken Fine"
wrote:

TRIP REPORT - TURKEY 2005 -- Ken Fine )

I visited Turkey August 21 to September 5, 2005 with my wife. Here's a grab
bag of observations and tips to benefit anyone else (including us who
decide to travel to Turkey in the future.

Turkey has made huge strides since our first visit in 1999. It continues to
be my favorite country in the world to visit: beautiful, intriguing,
endlessly charming, and populated with folks who have hearts of gold. The
stabilization of the Turkish lire and the poor performance of American
currency in recent years has made it somewhat more expensive to visit than
before, but among European countries Turkey remains a bargain.

Walking alone in all parts of Istanbul, we felt safe at all times of the day
and night - safer than in any American city we've visited, including our
hometown of Seattle. We walked through extremely conservative sections of
the city and places where poverty was obviously the norm. In all places we
felt welcome. The only threat to your personal safety is traffic-related:
watch out for speeding taxis and you'll be fine.

If I were a younger man I'd strongly consider moving to Istanbul. That's my
best endorsement of this fascinating place. Most Americans are woefully
ignorant of Turkey's secular tradition, tolerance, and other essential
aspects of its modern history. If you're headed to Turkey, you'll be
well-served by reading the friendly history manual before you go.

Turkey recently knocked six zeros off of its currency (really!) in an effort
to bring inflationary valuations back to earth. The 1-million note is now
just 1 YTR, commonly referred to as "1 lire". Older notes and coins with
denominations in the millions are still floating around and are negotiable.
The extreme differences between old and new currency make it unlikely that
anyone will confuse the two.

I've taken four trips to Turkey now, and have stayed in a variety of places
in Istanbul. Conclusion: Sultanhamet may be the first place that tourists
land when they come to Istanbul, but don't let that scare you away. It's the
most convenient place for a tourist to stay in the city: close to a host of
major and minor attractions, and near to low-cost mass transit that can get
you all over Istanbul.

During this latest trip stayed in two hostels, the ur-swanky "aija" hotel,
and a pension. While in Sultahamet, I stayed in the Istanbul Hostel and the
Orient Hostel. Both are excellent hostelling options and I recommend them
highly. Both include a substantial Turkish breakfast. If weather is hot,
lower floors may be most comfortable. Both places have very nice rooftop
bars; the view from the Orient is a little better. You do not need to be
staying in either hostel to enjoy the bars: just head upstairs, order a
drink, and kick back.

The Orient Hostel has a smashing view on its upper rooftop terrace which it
opens for its thrice-weekly all-you-can-eat "Barbeque Night". At the time of
my trip, this was bargain-priced at 10 lire and included a nice selection of
vegetarian appetizers.

For an even more amazing view: the "Seven Hills" hotel has one of the best
views in the city at its rooftop restaurant: on one side, an unobstructed
180-degree view of the Sea of Marmara snaking into the Bosphorus; on the
other, the looming domes of the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofia. Dinner comes
at a premium - 30 to 40 lire for a main course -- but it's probably worth
it. If you're feeling cheap, enjoy an 8-lire raki.

The Yulcelt Hostel, where I stayed in 1999 and enjoyed, is closed "for
renovations." I don't know when it's scheduled to re-open.

The Side Hotel and Pension (pronounced "See-day"), also on the main drag in
Sultanamet, was a great find: spotlessly clean, well-run, and inexpensive.

There is a fine laundry service on the same street as the Istanbul Hostel in
Sultanhamet; look for the "laundry" sign on a stone wall opposite. It costs
3 lire per kilo for a wash, dry, and folding, and typically has a 24-hour
turnaround. Be kind and throw in an extra lire or two for the washer-folk.

If you have money to burn and want the best of the best, Istanbul's "aija
hotel" is worth a long look; we enjoyed a single night there. Rooms are
decked out with a cool, clean aesthetic, and face the beautiful blue
Bosphorus. How cool is the aija hotel? So cool that you take a private ferry
across the Bosphorus to reach the place. So cool that its stark white lobby
looks like it was pulled off the space-station set of "2001: A Space
Odyssey." So cool that it will cost you hundreds of dollars a night to burn
your time here. If the price doesn't scare you, this unique place is worth a
night or two of your decadance.

Near to the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia is an excellent tourist information
booth. They will give you free maps of Istanbul - no need to buy a city plan
from a vendor.

Also near the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia is the "Hop On - Hop Off" city bus
tour. I'm usually quite averse to uber-touristy "experiences" like this, but
the increasing cost of taking taxis in Istanbul makes it an economical way
to get around for a day of far-flung adventure. You can "hop off" at any of
40-odd stops, but note that you need to +tell the driver+ that you want off.
Some other tourists left after just one circuit of the city and were quite
annoyed at the lack of stops - they didn't realize it was possible to
request a stop anywhere on the route. A day on the bus costs 25 lire,
replacing what would certainly be 100+ lire worth of taxi rides.

Pide is a kind of Turkish pizza baked in a brick oven and filled with the
usual suspects: garlic, chicken, sausage, cheese, and veggies. There's a
delicious pide place near the Grand Bazaar: if you're walking toward the
Bazaar on the tram line, the pide restaurant is on the first
diagonally-running street after you first see the large domes of the Bazaar.
Look for a place with a brick oven near the entrance and piles of fresh
oranges near the front door. They make a small and a large pide; the large
(6 lire) will stuff two full-sized adults. Also try the fresh-squeezed
orange and pomegranate juices (2-3 lire).

A number of places offer airport shuttle service from Sultanhamet 3 Euros
or 6 lire, cheap. There are departures throughout the day.

The tram is a good bet for transportation around Istanbul if it goes where
you want it to go. Avoid it during the 17:00 rush hour: since it's a
glorified streetcar, it slows to a crawl in heavy traffic. It's a good way
to get to Taksim: take the streetcar to the Karakoy stop, get off, take the
funicular railway up the hill, and take the Tunel streetcar to Taksim. Much
cheaper than a taxi.

Istiklal Caddesi - a long street running to Taksim Square -- is Istanbul's
shopping and bar district for the trendy youth set. Located in cosmopolitan
Beyoglu, it's a must-visit, if only to understand the extent of Istanbul's
secularism.

"Katon," on Istiklal Caddesi sells super-cool businesswear targeted at young
professionals: imagine a motley mix of Versache with Banana Republic and you've
almost got the look. Best part is that they can tailor jackets, pants, and
other dressy items to a custom fit in a couple of day's time. Both my wife
and I bought several snappy suits there. Katon blares an endless stream of
techno and it's staff speaks little English, so be prepared for a lot of
charades.

If you're looking for classic men's suits, "Sarar" offers the best in
Istanbul. They have outlets in several places throughout the city, including
an outlet in Istiklal Caddesi. You can get a really, really nice suit for
under $200 and have it custom-tailored to suit you.

The Tünel, running from the lower part of Istiklal Caddesi to Taksim Square,
resembles the San Francisco streetcars. I find the Tünel cheaper, more
charming, and more authentic. Be sure to take a trip on the Tunel while you're
in Istanbul.

Don't waste money on a private "Bosphorus cruise" - the public ferries are
cheap, uncrowded, and fun. Go to Eminonu - the tram can take you there. From
Eminonu, there are stations named after the place they go: Karakoy, Uskadar,
and Kadikoy. A fourth station will take you to the Princes' Islands.

The Princes' Island ferry trip is 2 lire. If you're headed to the large
island of Buyukada, try to get an express ferry, which run several times
daily. If you aren't on the express ferry, get off at the fifth ferry stop.
Buyukada's famous horse-and-buggy rides run 35 lire these days: steep. If
you want the donkey ride up to the monestary - worthwhile -- negotiate the
driver's "waiting fee" before you start the ride.

McDonalds is a convenient way to get wifi/ wireless Internet access in
Istanbul. Turkish Telecom charges for it, but the price is reasonable. Best
bet is to buy a week of access for about 40 lire. You may be able to pick
up an open connection in some of the touristed areas of Istanbul.

While you're enjoying the wifi, note that McDonalds makes the best
soft-serve chocolate ice cream in Istanbul. Their soft-serve is great, with
specks of mocha embedded throughout. Just 75 cents.

Wednesdays there is a huge sort of "yard sale" adjacent the Grand Bazaar and
one of Istanbul's universities.

We purchased the requisite Turkish carpet, leather jackets, tapestries, and
other Turkish gear in previous trips, so this time we looked for things
stranger and more exotic. Turkish light fixtures: why not? The Shishane
district, near Beyoglu, has dozens of stores specializing in handmade
fixtures. We bought two fixtures for $120-$150 each.

There's a total solar eclipse running through south-central Turkey March
2006. Having attended the Turkish eclipse of 1999, so tempting to go
again...

Feel free to write me if you have questions, (or
invitations to stay in your stylish digs the next time I visit Turkey.)

Be nice and ask before reprinting this without attribution.

-KF

That reminds me of an incident in Cairo a few years ago. Our group was
visiting a mosque and, when going in to it, my wife put on the scarf she
carries for such occasions. When they were coming out while folks were
jostling trying to get the attendants notice to recover their shoes hers
were immediately put on the counter and the guard who had the only chair
got up for a few minutes to let her put on her shoes. Almost no one in
the group noticed but it was interesting.

In Egypt they simply keep a stock of bright green robes for folks with
shorts or sleeveless tops.

At St. Peters in the Vatican the minions on the stairs simply tell you
to go away and refuse entrance. No robes for the dumb tourist there.



SCD wrote:

What a great report!

I was in Turkey for a month about 10 years ago and loved it, you
certainly convinced me that I have to return again!

Did you notice if the American tourists were more respectfully dressed
in the mosques? I was so pleased that Turkey allows non-Muslims into
mosques to see the splendor, but I was horrified to see US tourists
dressed in shorts, halters, etc. I'd hate to see the access cut off.
I carried a small head scarf (I'm female) to put on and I got some
polite smiles from local people as a result.

SCD

On Thu, 8 Sep 2005 16:27:03 -0700, "Ken Fine"
wrote:


TRIP REPORT - TURKEY 2005 -- Ken Fine )

I visited Turkey August 21 to September 5, 2005 with my wife. Here's a grab
bag of observations and tips to benefit anyone else (including us who
decide to travel to Turkey in the future.

Turkey has made huge strides since our first visit in 1999. It continues to
be my favorite country in the world to visit: beautiful, intriguing,
endlessly charming, and populated with folks who have hearts of gold. The
stabilization of the Turkish lire and the poor performance of American
currency in recent years has made it somewhat more expensive to visit than
before, but among European countries Turkey remains a bargain.

Walking alone in all parts of Istanbul, we felt safe at all times of the day
and night - safer than in any American city we've visited, including our
hometown of Seattle. We walked through extremely conservative sections of
the city and places where poverty was obviously the norm. In all places we
felt welcome. The only threat to your personal safety is traffic-related:
watch out for speeding taxis and you'll be fine.

If I were a younger man I'd strongly consider moving to Istanbul. That's my
best endorsement of this fascinating place. Most Americans are woefully
ignorant of Turkey's secular tradition, tolerance, and other essential
aspects of its modern history. If you're headed to Turkey, you'll be
well-served by reading the friendly history manual before you go.

Turkey recently knocked six zeros off of its currency (really!) in an effort
to bring inflationary valuations back to earth. The 1-million note is now
just 1 YTR, commonly referred to as "1 lire". Older notes and coins with
denominations in the millions are still floating around and are negotiable.
The extreme differences between old and new currency make it unlikely that
anyone will confuse the two.

I've taken four trips to Turkey now, and have stayed in a variety of places
in Istanbul. Conclusion: Sultanhamet may be the first place that tourists
land when they come to Istanbul, but don't let that scare you away. It's the
most convenient place for a tourist to stay in the city: close to a host of
major and minor attractions, and near to low-cost mass transit that can get
you all over Istanbul.

During this latest trip stayed in two hostels, the ur-swanky "aija" hotel,
and a pension. While in Sultahamet, I stayed in the Istanbul Hostel and the
Orient Hostel. Both are excellent hostelling options and I recommend them
highly. Both include a substantial Turkish breakfast. If weather is hot,
lower floors may be most comfortable. Both places have very nice rooftop
bars; the view from the Orient is a little better. You do not need to be
staying in either hostel to enjoy the bars: just head upstairs, order a
drink, and kick back.

The Orient Hostel has a smashing view on its upper rooftop terrace which it
opens for its thrice-weekly all-you-can-eat "Barbeque Night". At the time of
my trip, this was bargain-priced at 10 lire and included a nice selection of
vegetarian appetizers.

For an even more amazing view: the "Seven Hills" hotel has one of the best
views in the city at its rooftop restaurant: on one side, an unobstructed
180-degree view of the Sea of Marmara snaking into the Bosphorus; on the
other, the looming domes of the Blue Mosque and the Aya Sofia. Dinner comes
at a premium - 30 to 40 lire for a main course -- but it's probably worth
it. If you're feeling cheap, enjoy an 8-lire raki.

The Yulcelt Hostel, where I stayed in 1999 and enjoyed, is closed "for
renovations." I don't know when it's scheduled to re-open.

The Side Hotel and Pension (pronounced "See-day"), also on the main drag in
Sultanamet, was a great find: spotlessly clean, well-run, and inexpensive.

There is a fine laundry service on the same street as the Istanbul Hostel in
Sultanhamet; look for the "laundry" sign on a stone wall opposite. It costs
3 lire per kilo for a wash, dry, and folding, and typically has a 24-hour
turnaround. Be kind and throw in an extra lire or two for the washer-folk.

If you have money to burn and want the best of the best, Istanbul's "aija
hotel" is worth a long look; we enjoyed a single night there. Rooms are
decked out with a cool, clean aesthetic, and face the beautiful blue
Bosphorus. How cool is the aija hotel? So cool that you take a private ferry
across the Bosphorus to reach the place. So cool that its stark white lobby
looks like it was pulled off the space-station set of "2001: A Space
Odyssey." So cool that it will cost you hundreds of dollars a night to burn
your time here. If the price doesn't scare you, this unique place is worth a
night or two of your decadance.

Near to the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia is an excellent tourist information
booth. They will give you free maps of Istanbul - no need to buy a city plan

from a vendor.

Also near the Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia is the "Hop On - Hop Off" city bus
tour. I'm usually quite averse to uber-touristy "experiences" like this, but
the increasing cost of taking taxis in Istanbul makes it an economical way
to get around for a day of far-flung adventure. You can "hop off" at any of
40-odd stops, but note that you need to +tell the driver+ that you want off.
Some other tourists left after just one circuit of the city and were quite
annoyed at the lack of stops - they didn't realize it was possible to
request a stop anywhere on the route. A day on the bus costs 25 lire,
replacing what would certainly be 100+ lire worth of taxi rides.

Pide is a kind of Turkish pizza baked in a brick oven and filled with the
usual suspects: garlic, chicken, sausage, cheese, and veggies. There's a
delicious pide place near the Grand Bazaar: if you're walking toward the
Bazaar on the tram line, the pide restaurant is on the first
diagonally-running street after you first see the large domes of the Bazaar.
Look for a place with a brick oven near the entrance and piles of fresh
oranges near the front door. They make a small and a large pide; the large
(6 lire) will stuff two full-sized adults. Also try the fresh-squeezed
orange and pomegranate juices (2-3 lire).

A number of places offer airport shuttle service from Sultanhamet 3 Euros
or 6 lire, cheap. There are departures throughout the day.

The tram is a good bet for transportation around Istanbul if it goes where
you want it to go. Avoid it during the 17:00 rush hour: since it's a
glorified streetcar, it slows to a crawl in heavy traffic. It's a good way
to get to Taksim: take the streetcar to the Karakoy stop, get off, take the
funicular railway up the hill, and take the Tunel streetcar to Taksim. Much
cheaper than a taxi.

Istiklal Caddesi - a long street running to Taksim Square -- is Istanbul's
shopping and bar district for the trendy youth set. Located in cosmopolitan
Beyoglu, it's a must-visit, if only to understand the extent of Istanbul's
secularism.

"Katon," on Istiklal Caddesi sells super-cool businesswear targeted at young
professionals: imagine a motley mix of Versache with Banana Republic and you've
almost got the look. Best part is that they can tailor jackets, pants, and
other dressy items to a custom fit in a couple of day's time. Both my wife
and I bought several snappy suits there. Katon blares an endless stream of
techno and it's staff speaks little English, so be prepared for a lot of
charades.

If you're looking for classic men's suits, "Sarar" offers the best in
Istanbul. They have outlets in several places throughout the city, including
an outlet in Istiklal Caddesi. You can get a really, really nice suit for
under $200 and have it custom-tailored to suit you.

The Tünel, running from the lower part of Istiklal Caddesi to Taksim Square,
resembles the San Francisco streetcars. I find the Tünel cheaper, more
charming, and more authentic. Be sure to take a trip on the Tunel while you're
in Istanbul.

Don't waste money on a private "Bosphorus cruise" - the public ferries are
cheap, uncrowded, and fun. Go to Eminonu - the tram can take you there. From
Eminonu, there are stations named after the place they go: Karakoy, Uskadar,
and Kadikoy. A fourth station will take you to the Princes' Islands.

The Princes' Island ferry trip is 2 lire. If you're headed to the large
island of Buyukada, try to get an express ferry, which run several times
daily. If you aren't on the express ferry, get off at the fifth ferry stop.
Buyukada's famous horse-and-buggy rides run 35 lire these days: steep. If
you want the donkey ride up to the monestary - worthwhile -- negotiate the
driver's "waiting fee" before you start the ride.

McDonalds is a convenient way to get wifi/ wireless Internet access in
Istanbul. Turkish Telecom charges for it, but the price is reasonable. Best
bet is to buy a week of access for about 40 lire. You may be able to pick
up an open connection in some of the touristed areas of Istanbul.

While you're enjoying the wifi, note that McDonalds makes the best
soft-serve chocolate ice cream in Istanbul. Their soft-serve is great, with
specks of mocha embedded throughout. Just 75 cents.

Wednesdays there is a huge sort of "yard sale" adjacent the Grand Bazaar and
one of Istanbul's universities.

We purchased the requisite Turkish carpet, leather jackets, tapestries, and
other Turkish gear in previous trips, so this time we looked for things
stranger and more exotic. Turkish light fixtures: why not? The Shishane
district, near Beyoglu, has dozens of stores specializing in handmade
fixtures. We bought two fixtures for $120-$150 each.

There's a total solar eclipse running through south-central Turkey March
2006. Having attended the Turkish eclipse of 1999, so tempting to go
again...

Feel free to write me if you have questions, (or
invitations to stay in your stylish digs the next time I visit Turkey.)

Be nice and ask before reprinting this without attribution.

-KF

Did you notice if the American tourists were more respectfully dressed
in the mosques? I was so pleased that Turkey allows non-Muslims into
mosques to see the splendor, but I was horrified to see US tourists
dressed in shorts, halters, etc.

These days there are rather few American tourists compared with other
nationalities, and they don't behave any worse in this respect. Most
are older than the average European tourist and either have more
experience or are in tour parties and are briefed by their guides.
I get the impression that young Australians are the most gratuitously
exhibitionistic.

Something I didn't think about until my last trip: covering your head
is for men too, particularly if you're bald. I got one of those little
skullcaps. Didn't use it everywhere but it did seem to be appreciated
in a few more traditional places.

============== j-c ====== @ ====== purr . demon . co . uk ==============
Jack Campin: 11 Third St, Newtongrange EH22 4PU, Scotland | tel 0131 660 4760
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