Quick Trip Notes from Italy

Just returned from Italy, mostly Tuscana (Siena, Luca San Gimignano), with
some quick stops at old favorites -- Venice, Florence, Milan and Rome. The
trip was nearly ruined by an abscessed tooth -- this was my Grand Tour of
Italian Dentists. Fortunately, it was eventually patched up enough so that
I could enjoy our trip.

Italy is as beautiful as ever, and everyone was very nice and friendly to
this American couple -- no expressed anti-American sentiment at all. As
always, learning a little bit of Italian goes a long way, and is also fun.
This is a great time of year to go -- not too cold, though on the rainy
side, but best of all, relatively few tourists. In Tuscany, the trees are
still turning and the landscapes are stunning.

Our favorite part of the trip: bicycling around Luca, a medieval walled
town, very untouristy, lots of local people living and working there. Many
wonderful locals-only trattorias for terrific meals.

Other high point: San Gimignano -- much more touristy, souvenir shops
galore, but virtually deserted this time of year. You can walk around at
night, after the tour busses leave, and easily imagine that you are back in
the 16th century.

Siena was rainy and cold, and not as impressive as Luca and San Gimignano,
though still quite spectacular. We recommend the Palazzo Raviza -- a
stunning pensionne with beautiful rooms decorated with antiques. We wound
up in the "garden suite," a ground floor cellar room that was something out
of a movie set. Because there was no view, we got a $20/night discount. We
were thrilled with the suite.

Don't attempt to drive in Luca or San Gimignano. Park in a lot outside the
walls and walk in (or, in Luca, take a taxi). Trust me! Your marriage will
depend on following this advice!

Venice is having its yearly battle with high-water, though fortunately not
while we were there. We stayed at our regular hotel -- the Giorgione --
which remains highly recommended. Nice rooms, wonderful location (Close to
the Ca D'oro vaporetto stop), friendly staff and reasonable prices. This
time we explored the other side of the Grand Canal (not the San Marco side).
Definitely more fun and interesting, particularly in the early evening when
the locals make their trek home. Far fewer tourist stores, many more
interesting restaurants (we like Da Beppi at C'a D'oro).

No pickpockets at the Rome terminii though, as always, a little common-sense
goes a long way. We did see a taxi tout who had managed to befuddle a
couple of tourists. We, as many others, simply ignored her and weren't
hassled. A taxi strike stranded my wife for a couple of hours, but kindly
Romans directed her to the busses she needed to take to get back to our
hotel.

We also found, again, it is best _not_ to rely on restaurant recommendations
by hotel concierges. Even when we'd specify "locals restaurant," we'd still
get directed to touristy places. We did much better on our own, avoiding
"Menu Turistico" offerings.

The Euro is particularly strong just now, costing 40% more than when we were
last in Europe. However, prices are still reasonable for Italian goods
(shoes, clothing, leather goods, furs, etc.) and restaurants were quite a
bargain. Oddly, despite delcaring all of our purchases, which would have
subjected us to a hefty duty, U.S. Customs just waived us through, providing
us with an unexpected 10% discount on everything we bought.

Can't wait to go back!