x0x Old Mansions are Reawakened Kastamonu

[See also
http://www.kastamonuserifebaci.com/o.../kastamonu.htm
handicrafts from Kastamonu
http://www.kastamonu.gov.tr/index_do...lar/dokuma.htm
Older restored mansions:
http://www.kastamonu.gov.tr/index_do...r/konaklar.htm ]

x0x Old Mansions are Reawakened Kastamonu

By Akgun Akova

Cities are the children of geography and history, each
with its own spirit. Some murmur quietly from morning
till night, others are in constant commotion. Some
awake early, others yawn until noon. Some are
presumptuous, others self-effacing. Some glow in the
light of history, their stories continually retold over
the centuries, others lie in its shadow, even their
names forgotten, listening silently. The character of
every city is shaken through the sieve of history over
the centuries and millennia. Whenever I cross the
mountains and set foot in Kastamonu, a mood of dignity
enwraps me. I feel the breath of a city which has seen
much, experienced much, and retained its self-respect
through all. I see it as a patient dervish wandering
with a clocktower on his back, perhaps because I
encounter the tomb of a great man or saint at every
step. Kastamonu remains Ottoman in aspect, graceful and
elegant.

The women who weave local fabrics also sell strained
yogurt, golden clavaria fungi and mallow in the market.
During the War of Independence it was the women of
Kastamonu who held the first women's rally on 16 May
1919, declaiming that their country should be sold to
no one. That is why there is the statue of a local
heroine, Serife Baci, in front of the City Hall, a
building which is one of the masterpieces by the
architect Vedat Tek. In my view this is the loveliest
public statue anywhere in Turkey. Legend has it that
Kastamonu was named after Moni, the daughter of a
Byzantine general, and ever since women have figured
large in its history, such as the courageous Halime
Cavus. During the War of Independence arms and
munitions were shipped to the port of Inebolu and
carried inland to the nationalist forces via Cankiri
and Ankara along what became known as the Independence
Road. So although the city's architectural garb is
Ottoman in character, it views the world with eyes that
belong to the Republic.

The clocktower which was erected here on 26 August 1885
had originally stood on Sarayburnu headland in
Istanbul. According to hearsay a favourite of the
sultan miscarried her child when she was startled by
the sudden chiming of the clock, upon which the
clocktower was dismantled and sent into exile. As soon
as the warm spring days begin, the tea garden beneath
the tower fills with people who come here in the late
afternoon to watch the sunset. As the lights of the
city come on one by one in the falling dusk, the castle
which surmounts the hill like a crown, the River
G=F6kirmak that flows at the foot of the hill, and the
ancient Hittite rock tomb known as Evkaya (House Rock)
fade from sight. Children finish their homework,
fathers come home tired from work, and mothers prepare
ek=FEili pilaf for tomorr'ssn meal before retiring to
bed. While the city sleeps the old houses begin to
murmur. Sepet=E7ioglu Konak greets Kirk Odali Konak.

Konyali Konak, now a local cultural centre, tells
proudly of the schoolchildren who filled its rooms with
their cheerful voices that day. Osmanli Konak,
otherwise known as Tahir Efendi Konak, is now a hotel,
and responds by listing the famous guests that are
staying in its rooms that night. Sirkeli Konak asks the
time to Mazlumcular Konak, which stands close to the
clocktower, and Eflanili Konak joins in their
conversation. These magnificent old mansions which had
sunk into silent neglect are now being reawakened by an
ambitious restoration project initiated by the city's
governor, Enis Yeter. As each one is restored to its
former dignity, their melancholy mood is replaced by
joy. Ellez Konak, which is now in the process of being
restored, will soon reopen as Kastamonu Textile Museum.

Nasrullah Mosque is delighted to see its old friends
regain their former pride and self-respect, and its
fountains splash and gurgle in congratulation. They say
that anyone who drinks this water will remain in
Kastamonu for seven years, but when all the beautiful
old mansions are restored visitors will yearn to stay
here whether they drink the water or not! Another
interesting project is the transformation of the former
coal warehouses into the Vedat Tek Memorial Art and
Restoration Centre. What better tribute could there be
to this great architect and his dedicated work than
such an institution? The people of Kastamonu value
their heritage and are delighted when others share
their appreciation. Traditional hospitality to
strangers lives on here, and if you knock on any door,
the occupants are certain to invite in their 'guest of
God' as unexpected visitors are called.

Food will be placed on the table, and after the meal,
while you sit comfortably against the cushion provided
for you on the divan, you will be offered a glass of
tea. Only the plump family cat will object to your
presence! And if you put out your hand to stroke it, it
will be reconciled, just as you only have to say hello
to make friends with the people of Kastamonu.

* Akgun Akova is a freelance writer