Laos - Royal Treatment in Luang Phrabang

Royal Treatment - 3/1/2004

By Susan Cunningham

LUANG PRABANG, Laos — The lazy lanes of Luang Prabang are now a little
bit closer. In December, Thai Airways began flying three times per
week between Chiang Mai, Thailand, and the former royal capital of
Laos.

Central to Luang Prabang's legendary charm has always been its
relaxed, chatty people, its refreshing climate and its ethereal
setting on the hills hugging the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers. Since the
small communist nation opened up to private business and tourism in
the early 1990s, visitors have also flocked to see the town's
architectural treasures.

Alongside traditional wooden Laotian-style houses are the stucco
villas and shop houses of the French colonialists, and hybrid
buildings that borrow motifs from both. Then there are 30-odd Buddhist
temples, most with the sweeping, layered roofs of Luang Prabang style.
UNESCO has been trying to encourage preservation and tasteful
modernization of the old buildings. In 1995, it designated the
downtown area a World Heritage Site.

Another architectural landmark is the palace of Laos' last king, who
disappeared forever into the Lao gulag in 1977. The large modern airy
building, dating from 1904, displays mosaics, Buddha images and royal
elephant saddle as well the king's Victrola and Proust collection.
Here too is a chapel that houses the gold Pha Bang Buddha image after
which the city is named.

Because there are very few vehicles and the town is so compact — with
fewer than 20,000 residents — visitors do a lot of meandering. Along
the way, clients will discover shops making and selling well-crafted
silver jewelry, wooden carvings and, most famous of all, hand-woven
textiles. The prices for everything are absurdly cheap. Try a
hand-woven, multi-colored silk scarf for $5.

Not that all tourists to Luang Prabang are content shopping. The
future of tourism in northern Laos lies with adventure tourism.
Already Luang Prabang is a budding base for mountain biking, hiking,
kayaking and rafting.

Following are some choice accommodations in Luang Prabang.
Reservations for all these hotels can be made through Stayxs.com,
which has a sister site, Stayxs. net, that's just for agents and
travel professionals. Through Stayxs.net, members can earn discounts
and commissions. Membership is free.

Pansea Phou Vao
At the very top of the line and perched atop Phou Vao (Kite Hill),
lies the French-managed Phou Vao, with its 34 rooms and two suites, a
pool, gardens galore, babysitters, heated rooms and Laotian staff
decked out in traditional costume. Rack rates start at $140, though 50
percent discounts aren't unheard of. The views are spectacular, but
the hotel is located far from town.
856-071-212-194, 856-071-212-530, fax: 856-712-212-534
E-mail:

Souvannaphoum
This hotel is the most historic accommodation in Luang Prabang, if not
the nation. This was the home of Prince Souvanna Phouma, Laos's prime
minister until 1975. The first Lao to be formally trained as an
architect, Souvanna designed this modern, unpretentious two-story
house in the early 1960s. His plan was to retire here and smoke cigars
in the lounge adorned with hunting trophies and play bridge on the
back veranda. The former bedrooms of the prince and princess can be
booked, but the 25 guestrooms in a new two-story annex are more
comfortable. The pool is a recent addition.
856-071-212-200

Villa Santi
This is the former home of crown prince Vong Savang. After serving
time as a government warehouse, the century-old house was reclaimed by
his widow in the early 1990s. Her daughter and son-in-law Santi
renovated and now run it. The old building houses a restaurant and
lobby, and most guests stay in air-conditioned rooms in a modern wing
with modern conveniences. Around the corner is L'Elephant, the best
French restaurant in town. (Centrally located, Villa Santi shouldn't
be confused with the Villa Santi Resort, which is three miles from
town.)
856-071-212-267

Le Calao Inn
This meticulously restored Sino-Portuguese-style mansion is too small
to attract tour groups; it has fewer than a dozen rooms. But it's an
ideal choice to book special clients. Dating from 1904, it was
originally the home and office for a Chinese merchant. On the banks of
the Mekong, it's a stone's throw from 450-year-old Wat Xieng Thong and
the junction with the Nam Khan River.
856-071-212-100

Phousy
There's nothing old or charming about this sprawling hotel, but it's
amply surrounded by gardens, it's a good value and it's well placed
for strolls around town or to the night market. The 40 rooms are
equipped with satellite TV, refrigerators and phones.
856-071-212-292