Crossroads of trade and culture Sivas

[Originally distributed by TurkC-L. See http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TurkC-L ]

[See the following for mo
http://www.sivas.gov.tr/KKS/index.htm
http://www.sivas.gov.tr/dmd/index.htm
See traditional Sivas homes at:
http://www.sivas.gov.tr/evler/index.htm
See the world renowned dogs of Sivas:
http://www.turkishdogs.com/kangal/ ]

x0x Crossroads of trade and culture Sivas

By NECDET SAKAOGLU

The Turkish province of Sivas has a beautiful and varied
landscape of volcanic mountains intersected by deep gorges, high
plateaus, fertile plains, river valleys shaded by poplars, and steppe
with oak and juniper woods. In mediaeval times the Seljuk sultans
hunted around the lakes of Hafik and Todurge. For long centuries the
province has been an important region for iron ore mining, cereal
production and sheep farming. Sivas is famous for its Kangal dogs,
huge creatures gentle with children but fierce when protecting their
flocks from wolves and farms from intruders.

HUB OF ANCIENT ROADS

The ancient King's Road, Silk Road and Spice Road, and military roads
linking Istanbul to Caucasia and the Black Sea coast all passed
through Sivas. Excavations of the fort at Topraktepe beside the Mismil
River, a tributary of the Kizilirmak, have shown that there was a
Hittite settlement here in the 2nd millennium BC.

The King's Road from Ephesus passed through Gordion, Ankara,
Corum, Tokat and Sivas, from where it continued eastwards into Iran.

Successive civilisations which ruled the region grew wealthy on the
busy trade, and attached importance to maintenance of the roads and
keeping them secure. During Seljuk and Ottoman times numerous bridges
were built over rivers on the roads leading to the Gulf of Basra,
eastern Anatolia, the Black Sea and Konya. Some of these bridges can
still be seen today, such as the Egri, Kesik, Bogaz and Kizilirmak
bridges.

Sivas was invaded during the Arab incursions of the 7th and 8th
centuries, and conquered by the Turkish general Emir Danismend Gazi in
1071. The Danismendogullari principality ruled the city until 1175,
after which it became part of the Anatolian Seljuk State. It was at
this time that the city walls, castle, Ulu Mosque, and other
monumental works of Seljuk architecture were constructed. At Divrigi
east of Sivas the Mengucekogullari principality built the superb
monuments for which this town is renowned: Kale Mosque built by Sahin
Sah, Ulu Mosque by Ahmed Sah, and the hospital by Melike Turan Melek.

CITY OF LEARNING

During these early centuries of Turkish rule, both Sivas and Divrigi
became major centres of scholarship and art.

Throughout the 13th century, Sivas ranked second only to Konya, with
its mosques and medreses (colleges), and institutions funded by rich
endowments. Some of the Seljuk sultans made the city their capital.

The historic monuments in Sivas today reflect the city's former
importance and splendour. The Medical College founded in 1217 by
Sultan Izzeddin Keykavus was the largest such institution in Seljuk
Turkey. In this building, with its great portal, inner courtyard and
iwan (arched alcoves), physicians both treated patients and instructed
students.

Opposite the Medical College are the remaining structures of Cifte
Minareli Medrese, the imposing portal with its marvellous stone
carving and pair of minarets with tile decoration. Further along the
same street you notice the graceful sandstone portal of Buruciye
Medrese, built by the renowned Seljuk architect Kaluyan of Konya.

The intricately carved motifs on the portal, which is
flanked by two tiled minarets, include dragons, symbols relating to
health, and talismanic motifs.

DIVRIGI ULU MOSQUE

The Divrigi Ulu Mosque complex dating from 1228 is listed as a World
Heritage site by UNESCO. Hurremsah of Ahlat was the architect of Ahmed
Sah's Ulu Mosque and the Turan Melek Hospital, both exquisite
masterpieces which have survived intact and in their original state to
the present day. The four portals of the complex, the mosque niche,
minber (pulpit) and vaults are all carved in the same style but in
different decorative schemes. Sivas became part of the Ottoman Empire
in the 14th century, after being ruled by three different Turkish
principalities following the fall of the Seljuk State.

The many historic monuments dating from these principalities
and the Ottoman period
include Guduk Minaret and its kumbets (tower tombs), the Kale, Meydan
and Aliaga mosques, Kursunlu Hamam (bath), the hans (khans) of
Behrampasa and Tas, the Council House, and the building where the
Sivas Congress was held during the Turkish War of Independence
(1919-1923).

SIVAS CONGRESS

The most important event in the modern history of Sivas is the
congress convened here by Mustafa Kemal Ataturk on 4-14 September
1919, at which crucial decisions were taken to prevent the partition
of the country by the Allies, the support of the people was rallied,
and the foundations of the new parliament in Ankara were laid.

Today Sivas has its own university and many other
educational institutions, museums and libraries. It is famous for its
thermal spas, its traditional handcrafts, particularly silver filigree
and knife making, and for its poets and minstrels, notably Kadi
Burhaneddin, Pir Sultan Abdal and Âsik Veysel.