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In October Ulus-Uluyayla
x0x In October Ulus-Uluyayla
By Akgün Akova If we really want to find the steps of the deers, we have to go from Ulus to Uluyayla, to the mountains. Anyone who sets out with the urge to discover, knows well that one encounters new aspects of nature when leaving the main road behind and taking to the side roads. The Bartin-Safranbolu road, where the branches of trees unite overhead to form yellow tunnels, offers such an opportunity. Firstly you should turn at the signpost for Ulus when you reach Abdipasa, 25 kilometres after leaving behind the greenish-brown waters of the Bartin river. After another 11 kilometres, when you reach the village of the Boz Ulus Turkmens, who migrated here centuries ago, you should search for footprints of deer in the garden of Hasandede mosque, which is full of leaves blown by the wind. If you are curious about the presence of deer?s footprints in a mosque garden, let us explain: this building, which is the oldest mosque of the village, was built by Hasan Dede, who was rumoured to have come from Horasan. At first, the village people watched this stranger, who was building a mosque on his own, in astonishment. But one night they saw deer helping him to fetch timber; this made them understand their mistake and then they helped him finish the mosque. We do not know the truth of these legends, but we know that if we really want to find the footprints of deer, we have to go from Ulus to Uluyayla: to the mountains where autumn dwells. Along the 33 kilometre road stand many different trees, such as oak, spruce, pine and beech. In the 18th century Ibrahim Efendi from Ulus wrote in his Atlas ?The forests of Uluyayla and Gökbeli are enough not only for the Ottoman Empire but for the whole world?; a statement that you can appreciate when you see the forests for yourself. Then you remember the mistreatment by human beings of nature, while you refresh yourself, inhaling the fragrance of the trees. After the gradual dispersal of the fog that covered the forest in the morning hours, a blazon of colour follows. An autumn song enters your mind, accompanying the dance of the filtered colours. When looking at the paprika spread out to dry on the verandas of the wooden houses, you are greeted and offered tea. If you refuse politely, ayran replaces the tea offer. If you accept the invitation, you find yourself at a breakfast table that smells of village bread. On your departure they fill your pockets with medlars, called töngel in this region. The people of Ulus show their hospitality to unexpected guests with their courtesy. Here you may come across children turning somersaults while crossing the wooden bridge, elderly people chopping wood with axes, or brides carrying hewn wood in barrows. You feel the chill of autumn descend as you continue on your way. In this season, you will not be able to see girls preparing yayik ayran on the balconies of their plateau houses called sayvan, nor will you see the people who come to pray at the tomb located in the mouth of a cave, nor people pasturing their flocks, women spinning wool, or migratory birds. The grass of Izbit is no longer green. The road to Uluyayla is left for the hunters and foresters. But we should not forget the abundant mushrooms growing in the area during this season. Those who collect kanlica and çapaç mushrooms and load them into their baskets, sell them immediately in the markets of Bartin, Karabük and Zonguldak. In the autumn, swallows migrate from Uluyayla, which is at an altitude of 1,200 metres. However, Swallow Cave waits for the winter, with its dark mouth. To explore this cave of 400 metres length, boots alone are not sufficient, you also need a boat. In order not to get lost in Uluyayla, we advise you to get information in advance from the local governor?s office or the forest authority. The road might take one and a half hours in normal conditions; however it becomes difficult when it rains. Actually, it would be better to go with a four-wheel drive vehicle. If you have any trouble on the plateau, you may call on the forest unit located 4 kilometres away in Kalkanli. If you want to camp, bring your tent with you. For those who enjoy walking there are countless suitable paths in Ulus. I mentioned above that the Uluyayla road is left to hunters, foresters and mushroom gatherers in autumn, but there is one thing I forgot to mention: photographers. The trees standing behind the fields, looking as if they had been dipped in shiny gold, foxes slinking away to hibernate for the winter, woodpeckers pecking for the last time, the steam rising from the teapots of villagers loading logs onto trucks, the vivid red of the rosehips, all these are irresistible opportunities for the lens. The geography of the western Black Sea region exhibits its most beautiful colours as winter approaches. And autumn reigns over the forests of Ulus and Uluyayla. Akgün Akova is a photographer and freelance writer |
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