Tangier, Morrocco - Ferry Port to Train Station

Originally posted by docwra

Joe,



I was planning this idea exactly myself, did

you manage to book a place on the train in

advance?



Steve



Hi Steve,



Yes, we did the trip last November. It went well.



We arrived by ferry about 10:00pm in Tangier. Only one "official guide"
tried to pressure us in the port. There's a short walk between the
ferry ramp and the port building - that's where you will be hounded by
the guides if there are any there. I advise just walking with the crowd
and politely yet strongly saying "no thanks".



As soon as you get to the port building the taxis are all out front.
Bargain them down for a ride to the train station since they all want
your fare. Also, if you don't want to squeeze into a taxi with 8 others
than I suggest specifying to the driver that you want a private ride.



The train station is about a 5-10 minute drive on the outskirts of
Tangier. The Lonely Planet guide described it as a "pleasant little
station". I was not so sure this was the same station they described.
Not having been to an Islamic country before, and getting there at dark
in off-tourist season, it was quite intimidating to my wife and I.
Needless to say, we were the only western looking people there. The
station was quite rustic with a dirt parking lot in front, a few
chickens running around and very dim lighting. There was a small
waiting area inside the station with a few ticket windows, and a small
concession stand outside with some tables set up, and a television set.
Seeing traditionally dressed Morrocan men sitting in this rustic outdoor
cafe area, drinking mint tea with chickens running around them, all
while watching an Arabic dubbed version of Jerry McGuire, was all too
memorable.



In any case, there was no problem getting train tickets 1.5 hours
before. We opted for the sleeper car "couchette" (4 beds per cabin).
Believe me, the couchettes are not much more (in any western currency)
and well worth it. The coach class cars were loaded like cattle cars -
ok for a short trip, but not for the 10-11 hour ride. We were so happy
we opted for the couchette, and it was a given on the return ride.



If there are two of you travelling, they might try to get you to buy all
4 beds in the cabin to ensure privacy. We were fortunate to meet a
couple from Denmark in the train station who arrived just before the
train left - we shared the cabin with them. Only about 2 of the approx
10 cabins in the sleeper car had any people in them, so I would say
you're best to not get suckered into buying all 4 beds - chances are
you'll get your own cabin anyway (at least in low tourist season).



Once on the train, we felt much more relaxed having been out of Tangier
and that train station, though in retrospect, it seemed much more
threatening than anything really was. We felt a little ashamed having
been so unnerved, but we were just out of our element.



The couchette car has it's own guard so there is always somebody there
to make sure nobody boards that car without having a ticket for it.
Your sleeper car door shuts but does not lock (just in case you were
interested). Also, don't expect a fancy cabin - it's pretty basic with
vinyl mattresses, but they provide you pillows and blankets.



The "Marrakech Express" is really no express though. As i mentioned,
it's 10-11 hours, and does the milk run, stopping what seems like every
30 minutes at some station.



Arriving in the morning in Marrakech, we disembarked at what I think the
LP guided must have referrred to as the "pleasant little station". It's
a very nice modern station and is a nice welcome to Marrakech. We spent
3 nights in Marrakech and had a great time. We took the same midnight
train back to Tangier, this time knowing exactly what to expect.



All in all, it was a great trip. As I mentioned though, just be
prepared to feel out of your element in Tangier if taking the midnight
train. Though I don't think there is anything threatening about it.
Once we were passed that one "official guide" in the port, we were not
bothered by anyone again. In fact, the ticket seller in the train
station spoke good English and was very friendly and helpful to us.



Do enjoy an mint tea in the Tangier station after you buy your ticket
and take in the experience - it's a bit surreal if it's your first time
to a country like that.



Hope that helps. If you want anything clarified further or you need
anything else, let me know.



joe


--
Posted via http://britishexpats.com

Tangier has a nice, brand new train station. It was open in September
2003 for sure.

Advice: take it easy on the tea unless they've brewed it with bottled
water. The last time I went I made sure everything I drank came from a
bottle and I had no unpleasant effects. But yeah, the tea is awesome!

JoeK wrote:

The train station is about a 5-10 minute drive on the outskirts of
Tangier. The Lonely Planet guide described it as a "pleasant little
station". I was not so sure this was the same station they described.
Not having been to an Islamic country before, and getting there at dark
in off-tourist season, it was quite intimidating to my wife and I.
Needless to say, we were the only western looking people there. The
station was quite rustic with a dirt parking lot in front, a few
chickens running around and very dim lighting. There was a small
waiting area inside the station with a few ticket windows, and a small
concession stand outside with some tables set up, and a television set.
Seeing traditionally dressed Morrocan men sitting in this rustic outdoor
cafe area, drinking mint tea with chickens running around them, all
while watching an Arabic dubbed version of Jerry McGuire, was all too
memorable.