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Glacier Bay (Alaska) Cruise review
Here's Lee's Glacier Bay review...
Thanks for taking the time to read this. It's long, and it took a while to write, so I appreciate the audience. Up to and through Day 8 is our journey from Fairbanks to Anchorage. Day 9 really starts the Glacier Bay Cruise Line portion, so skip to Day 9 if you only want to read about the cruise. Thanks for reading!!!!! Alaska, August 7-22, 2002 The Explorers: Lee, age 39, husband,Barry, age 52. I (Lee) have been on 5 cruises previously, Barry=b9s been on 3. This was a first visit to Alaska for both of us. Day 1: Got a ride to Newark airport from a dear friend who was kind enough to drive us there pretty early in the morning - it=b9s about a 60 mile trip, but we made good time, and got there with no problems. We were a little apprehensive about the day=b9s travel. Since we used American Airlines frequent flyer miles for this trip, we weren=b9t really able to choose a great itinerary. It would take four flights to get us from Newark to Fairbanks, the last two on Alaskan Airlines, which I had heard were horrible for losing bags, delayed flights, etc. Amazingly, all flights were on time, all connections (Chicago, Denver, Seattle) were made and our bags were first off the carousel in Fairbanks. It was late (after midnight) when we finally arrived, but the shuttle from the Bridgewater Hotel was still running. Brought us right to the hotel (downtown location) and we collapsed in a heap. Day 2: Breakfast buffet at the hotel (adequate but nothing special) and then wandered around downtown Fairbanks. Not a city that caters to much tourism, which was fine. Took a bus, in the afternoon, to the Univ. of Fairbanks museum which I had heard wonderful things about. We opted to upgrade our tickets to include the two-part show in a different building. Part one was a demonstration of Eskimo Olympics events, part two was a lecture on the Aurora Borealis. The show was great. Unfortunately, the museum had scheduling conflicts, so we had to choose between the show we saw, and a lecture on wolves that Barry really would have liked to see. Too bad they couldn=b9t schedule these things so visitors wouldn=b9t have to pick one or the other. Bussed back to town (bus drivers and passengers know each other by name), ate at a very popular Thai restaurant, and returned to the hotel. Day 3: Opted to try another place for breakfast that was listed in a =b3Best Places to Eat in Fairbanks=b2 website. Called the Co-Op Diner. Nothing great. Walked over to the visitors center to see what the best way to get to the Tanana Valley State Fair would be. They called some airport shuttle service who brought us there for $7.00 - a bargain compared to what a cab would have charged. Our driver told us of his first winter in Fairbanks when he literally shattered the upholstery in his car when he sat on it, before it had warmed up. That=b9s COLD! The fair was lots of fun. It had your standard rides and midway stuff, some good food (and the typical stuff as well), and all your fair-type exhibits (quilts, pies, veggies, jams, clothing, livestock, etc.). Also saw the giant cabbages (more on this later). We were picked up at the fair by Affordable New Car Rental and transferred to their office to pick up our car for our travels south. Picked this company because they were just about half the price of the big names. Car was relatively new, but a cheapo brand (Daewoo). Didn=b9t care as long as the car ran, and got us to Anchorage. Got a pizza from Gambardellas - supposed to be the best in the interior, but it was pretty bad. Fairbanks was a great town to ease our way into Alaskan culture and attitudes. Everyone was incredibly polite, helpful and friendly. Weather was cool and rainy (expected) and smoky, from some fires burning hundreds of miles away. Daylight was awesome. Sundown was 10:20 or so, but darkness wasn=b9t until closer to 11:30. Sun (lightness) again at 4:00am. Day 4: Up pretty early, breakfast at the hotel buffet again, then packed up the car and headed south on the Parks Highway (I thought it was named this because of the parks along the way, but found out it was named after someone with the last name Parks - who knew???). Didn=b9t stop, that I can remember, until we got to Denali Cabins (not to be mistaken with Denali River Cabins), about 8 miles south of the park entrance. Unloaded our stuff into our very compact quarters (prep for boat cabin), grabbed a bite at McKinley Creek Cafe, a few miles farther south, had them pack us lunches for the next day, bought some of their incredible baked goods, and drove back up to the park entrance. Headed to the Denali Nat=b9l Park visitors center, and timed our arrival perfectly to jump on a bus to visit the sled dog demo area. Barry and I have a Siberian Husky, so seeing these Alaskan Huskies was a treat. The demo was short, but there was ample time for us to visit the dogs (lots of petting) and the 8 week old puppies. Back to the visitor=b9s center, then drove our own car out to the 15 mile point - as far as private vehicles are allowed. Took a hike/walk loop that started at the end of that parking lot - a nice stroll. Then drove back to the park entrance, stopping occasionally to view wildlife and scenery (the mountain was not out). Left the park and went to the Perch (about 10 miles south of the park entrance) for dinner. Okay meal, nothing special. Back to the cabins and early to bed - getting up early for our park shuttle bus. Day 5: Up and out by 6:00am for our 6:30 green =b3shuttle=b2 bus into the park We reserved ahead to go into Eielson - 65 miles in.While we were getting ready, I discovered that the carpeting in the cabin was soaking wet, and that my daypack had been sitting on the wet carpet all night, so my waistbelt and the bottom of the pack were kinda soggy, which I was not at all thrilled about. Dealt with it later. Boarded the bus and had a great trip out to Eielson. Forecast was for rain, but the sky was looking pretty good. Drivers - I guess it=b9s a luck of the draw thing. Our driver (Lee McKelvey) was really terrific - a young man from Belfast city. We all kept our eyes open for wildlife and saw a lot. The driver stopped whenever we asked, and had an incredible wealth of info which he shared with us during the long ride (4 hours in). As luck would have it, the mountain was out!!!! We got a few short glimpses of her, and then there she was, base to summit! Truly a magnificent sight. Amazingly, the tan =b3tour=b2 busses turned around just one mile before this great view, even though there was space to turn around at this great lookout. On a day like this one was, to not drive the extra mile to give the passengers a look is just shameful. So, in addition to seeing the mountain, we saw too many griz to count, caribou, dall sheep (very far) and moose - the big 4, as they=b9re called. Once we got to Eielson, we had the opportunity to jump on another bus to Wonder Lake, another 10 miles in. So, we did that and hung out there for a while. Then we started back to Eielson on foot, and walked a few miles back until we flagged down a bus. Once back at Eielson, we took a short hike and explored the exhibits. Bus ride back was pretty uneventful. The driver was a dud - not sure if they always gab a lot on the way out, and then not at all on the way back, or if this guy was just personality deprived. He did stop for some wildlife viewing, but didn=b9t have too much to contribute. Went north of the park for dinner (to that horribly congested area where all the hotels are clustered, including the Princess Denali Lodge and their bazillion busses), back tot he cabin, and to the motel office, to request a room change. Got a different cabin, twice the size and very comfortable. Day 6: Didn=b9t rush this morning. Packed up and headed south towards Anchorage. Ate a late breakfast in Cantwell (pretty good - it=b9s on your right once you pass the post office). Drove to Talkeetna and shopped around for a few hours. Don=b9t think we bought anything. Continued south to Wasilla where we stopped for dinner at a friend/acquaintance of mine who I had met last May (2001) when both of the choirs we sing with performed at Carnegie Hall. Karen sat next to me for rehearsals and we stood together for the performance - and really hit it off. So, it was fun to get together again, after such a fleeting meeting in NYC. Got to meet the kids and husband, too. Before dinner, we toured her =b3compound=b2. It=b9s a family farm - enough produce to eat and a decent amount to sell. Her parents have a house on the property and they=b9re in the middle of building another house for his parents. A nice set-up. Well, Karen=b9s nephew grows giant cabbages on the property. In fact, he won last year at the official Alaska State Fair! So, we got a preview of this year=b9s crop. If you haven=b9t seen these, all I can say is wow! They still had 2 weeks of growing before they=b9d be picked and they were already huge. Last year, I think Seth won with a 92 pounder. The record is around 101 lbs., I think. Not sure how he fared this year. After dinner and visiting, it was back in the car for the last leg into Anchorage. Couldn=b9t have been easier to get to the hotel. We didn=b9t have to make a turn. We chose the Voyager Hotel in Anchorage. It=b9s a smaller boutique hotel, but the location is excellent (across the street from the much more expensive Captain Cook), the room was huge and very comfortable. I would highly recommend this hotel to Anchorage visitors. Day 7: Wandered the streets of Anchorage, shopping and exploring. Then, since we still had the car, we headed out of town on the Seward Highway to Girdwood. It was a great drive with lots of beautiful scenery and places to pull over to look around (saw streams with salmon making their way back upstream to their natal spot). Kept going south until we came to the Whittier Tunnel - and decided to go through, just so we could get a glimpse of Prince William Sound. It was an expensive tunnel ($12?) but fun - it=b9s one way, so every half-hour it closes for one direction, opens for the other, and when a train goes through, everyone has to wait. You kind of staddle the tracks as you drive through. The tunnel=b9s claim to fame is something like it=b9s the longest mountain tunnel or something. Once we were through, there wasn=b9t much to see, so we got an ice cream, and headed back - didn=b9t want to miss our half-hour opportunity to go through, otherwise we would have had to wait. Back to Anchorage and a stop at the laundromat for a quick load, dropped off the rental car and were shuttled back to our hotel. Fantastic dinner at Sack=b9s Cafe. This was, by far, our best meal of the trip. Definitely try this place if you want to try some interesting and innovative flavor combinations. Terrific. Day 8: Up early and to the airport for our flight to Sitka (via Juneau). Flight was delayed leaving Fairbanks so we waited 4 hours to finally leave. Since it was a continuing flight, we weren=b9t concerned about missing a connection in Juneau, so we just relaxed and dealt with the delay. Met some fellow Wilderness Discoverer passengers in the gate area, so that was nice. Finally got to Sitka at probably about 2 or 3pm. Were met at the airport by a Glacier Bay Tours person who directed us to a shuttle bus. We had been informed a few days before leaving home, that we had been relocated in Sitka from a downtown hotel to a b&b because of some convention in town that had reserved all rooms. This didn=b9t seem to be too much of a problem when we got the news, but became an issue when we were driven to the location, which was pretty darn far out of town - incredibly inconvenient since we were carless. Nice guy that he was, our shuttle driver waited for us (coincidently, the folks we met in the airport had also been assigned to this b&b), and drove us back to town once we dumped our suitcases in our rooms, met the b&b owner, etc. Gave him a nice tip. The rest of the day was spent in downtown Sitka, shopping, sightseeing, dining. Getting a cab back to the b&b took effort, but one finally showed up, after repeated calls. Not a huge expense, but one that I don=b9t think should have been ours, after Glacier Bay Tours had moved us, without our consent or wishes, to an inconvenient location. (I did not mention it to the crew - wasn=b9t their doing, but it was mentioned on the comment card, which will hopefully find its way into the hands of someone who might have a say in this type of thing). Back to the house, met the third couple that was staying at the b&b who were on our cruise. Very pleasant folks, all. Day 9: Decided the night before, to share a cab into town with the third couple - they had arrived in town too late last night to wander around, and wanted the chance to shop and see the place before meeting up with the tour. So, instead, this morning, the b&b owner offered (hard to refuse, and be polite) to take us (all 6) to a favorite spot of hers, where we did a short nature walk/hike, which was very pleasant. Then, she drove us around an area even farther from town, for more sightseeing. By that time, couple 3 were very anxious to get into town, us less so, since we had had the opportunity the day before. Finally, she brought us to town (saved on the cab fare anyway), we had a quick lunch, then met up with the rest of our boat-mates at the Tlingit Cultural Center (not the real name of the place, but that was what it was) where we were treated to a Tlingit dance, drum, song exhibition. Beautiful building, and very enjoyable show. After the show, we boarded the buses, and visited a few other Sitka sites, including the Alaska Raptor Rehab Center, Totem Park (one more place, I think...but can=b9t remember), then finally to the boat for boarding (our bags were supposedly being picked up at the b&b and would magically appear in our cabin). With such a small capacity, boarding was a breeze. We were checked in by Jessie, the purser, who informed us that we had been upgraded to a bigger, higher level cabin on the =b3300=b2 deck. Woohoo! We were escorted to our cabin by one of the Naturalists on board (Mark) who took a lot of time showing us around, how things worked (PA, =b3multi-purpose=b2 room, etc.), then left us to settle in. The room was tiny. I will never, ever, ever complain about any ship=b9s cabin size ever again (don=b9t think I have actually have ever complained about that). Total space was 8x11. The bed was really wide - wider than it really needed to be, and took up all but about 2 feet of the width at the far end of the cabin. It was two beds, pushed together, but was very comfortable. Small nightstand was on one side of the bed. Nice big picture window that opened, which was nice when the cabin got steamy from showers. As you enter the cabin, there=b9s a very small closet to the right with lots of hangars and two drawers. We used that pretty much for hanging our outerwear, and some sweats, and left the extra blanket and life preservers in there as well. Our suitcases stowed out of the way under the bed, but we had no place to unpack, so we had to pull them out almost daily for clothing, and stuff. Beyond the closet on the right wall was a corner sink with medicine cabinet, which was big enough for us to unlpack all that kind of stuff. On the left wall, as you enter, was the =b3multi-purpose=b2 room - your typical marine head with toilet/shower all in one. You draw the curtain in front of the toilet for showering, tuck it back otherwise. Remarkably, towels, tp stayed dry. The system worked really well, and the shower itself was great. We were summoned to the top (4th) deck for our intro talk, where we were introduced to the crew (crew of 23). Lucky for us, only 55 passengers on our cruise. We were also asked to pick an entree for dinner at this time. A brief kayaking lesson was given (how to put on your spray skirt, life vest, etc.). The main reason we chose this boat over the Cruise West offerings or some of the other small ships, was because this one featured a fleet of sea kayaks on board. Couldn=b9t wait to paddle around and explore. Okay...after the intro talk, we went down to the dining room/lounge (midships to forward on deck 2) where there were yummy fresh cookies - something we became accustomed to all week. Then, it was muster (yes, even on these little boats), settling in, and back downstairs for cocktail hour and dinner. Ship left port at probably 6:00pm or so. Anchored in Shultz Bay that evening. Typical day aboard Wilderness Discoverer: 6:30 am wake-up announcement comes right into your room. Breakfast is at 7:00am - buffet with some egg dish, pancakes or french toast, potatoes, meat. Check the day=b9s schedule on the dry erase board, pick your dinner entree (choice of either seafood or other - menu is posted in the morning).With the exception of our full day in Skagway, we were pretty much on the water. Sea kayaking/hiking/skiff rides in the morning/afternoon (depending on which day - 3 times total), cruising in the morning/afternoon, lunch served at 12:30 (family style - usually a crock of soup and platter of sandwiches), 3:00 was cookie time - always fresh and always different. 6:00 was cocktail hour with the hors d=b9oeuvre of the day (mussels marinara, shrimp cocktail, smoked salmon, veggie eggrolls, etc.), dinner at 7:30, nature lecture at 8:30, and usually bed by 10:00pm. Day 10: Spent the morning anchored in a Deep Bay on the northwest end of Baranoff island. Very protected waters - perfect for a first paddle (we are somewhat experienced, but this was a first for most of the passengers). This was a group paddle - we all kind of stayed together and explored the shoreline, looking for bear, mostly. We did see many eagles, a few harbor seals, and lots of other birds. Back on board, we travelled through Peril Strait in the afternoon, watching a humpack lunge feeding in Hoonah Sound, harbor seals eating and dog salmon breaching. Day 11: Glacier Bay - Stopped early in the day at Bartlett Cove to explore Glacier Bay Lodge and surrounds. Took a brief mile-long nature walk, looked at the exhibit in the lodge (very nice) and headed back to the boat. Our ranger, Jessica, boarded at this time, and the rest of the day was spent visiting the west fork of Glacier Bay. First stop was at South Marble Island for a great look at a sea bird rookery (saw puffins) and a Stellar sea lion haulout. In the afternoon, we explored the west arm where Lamplugh, Johns Hopkins, Marjerie and Grand Pacific glaciers are. As we approached Lamplugh (during dinner, actually) Barry and I ran up on deck with a few other lucky ones, and saw a tremendous calving. Couldn=b9t believe how loud it was! Went back downstairs and finished dessert, then everyone piled up on deck for the rest of the evening. There were some smaller calvings, but nothing like the one that so very few of us witnessed, so we were lucky. Left Tarr Inlet almost in complete darkness, so it was very slow going for the captain, dodging bergs. One of the mates, or deck hands was manning the spotlight as we worked our way back into open water. Dropped our ranger off early in the morning. Day 12: Cruising and kayaking. After dropping off Ranger Jessica, we headed down through Icy Strait. Morning was spent whale watching - a large pod of humpbacks (nine were counted) were spotted off of Point Adolphus. Also saw Harbor porpoise, Stellar sea lions, gulls and bald eagles. As we headed out, two whales breached right off the bow. Headed to Idaho Inlet fo an afternoon in the kayaks for an unsupervised paddle. Spotted sea otters on the way. Night was spent underway. Day 13: Skagway. Got off the boat at about 7:45 and boarded a few streetcar tour busses for a quick nickel-tour of Skagway (included in our package). The, most of us boarded the White Pass/Yukon Route narrow gauge train for a pretty scenic, beautiful ride into the Yukon Territory (purchased the excursion on the boat - same price if we had bought it directly on our own). It was an overcast day (to say the least) so vistas weren=b9t great, but getting up into the clouds was pretty cool. It was a great couple of hours - very enjoyable. Once we were off the train, Barry left for his hike to Lower Dewey Lake and I hit the stores. Actually found some really nice deals in Skagway. Wish I had bought more there, because the only other shopping opportunity I had left was Juneau, which I thought was awful. After a long day on land, we were glad to return to our boat. Just got our pictures back, and Barry took a great one of the harbor, with the mega ships and our little one in the same shot, for perspective. Left Skagway and headed south down Lynn Canal, the longet fjord in North America, passing the town of Haines, Eldred Lighthouse and another sea lion haulout. Day 14: This morning we cruised Tracy Arm Fjord/Terror Wilderness Area - amazingly gorgeous. Spent quite a bit of time parked in front of South Sawyer and Sawyer Glacier. As we turned away from South Sawyer, I walked the perimeter of the boat until I was aft, again looking at the glacier the whole time (stuff always happens when you turn away). Well, again there were just a few of us who were still watching, and again only we got to see another big calving. Barry missed this one, unfortunately. Paddle this afternoon in our most challenging conditions yet, in Sanford Cove. Still pretty tame water, but it was a less protected area, and there were icebergs to paddle to (not too close), which was fun. Day 15: Docked in Juneau at about 8:30am, off at 8:45 or so. Bags we brought down to the lounge. They would be transferred for us to airport, hotel, ferry...wherever we were going. So, that was nice. I was thinking we=b9d have to go all the way out to our hotel by the airport, check in, leave our bags and then come all the way back to town. Very convenient to let them deal with it all. Raining like crazy in Juneau, but that didn=b9t stop us. We shopped, literally, all day. None of the sightseeing attractions would be worth it on this day, because the weather was awful. Lunched at Twisted Fish, which was very good. Dinner at El Sombrero. Unfortunately, we waited until Juneau to buy many of the things we wanted to get for people at home, and for us. Wish we had bought in Skagway or Sitka instead. Found lots of rip-offs in Juneau, including one particular store that had obviously peeled place-of-origin labes off of merchandise - when asked, they claimed the stuff was Alaskan made. When we asked where the Made in Alaska label was, the story changed - now the stuff was Canadian. We left...then decided to go back and ask for a business card...maybe let the Chamber of Commerce know. Well, they didn=b9t have a card, and...big surprise, the story changed again! The stuff was made in the Orient. No kidding!!!!! Back to the hotel really early (Frontier Suites - Airport. Free shuttle). Day 16: Got up at 3:00am to be picked up at 4:15am for a 6:00am flight. We were beat. Amazingly, all three legs of our journey home were on time, our limo driver awaited us at baggage claim in Newark, and we were home around 1:00am. Glacier Bay Tours Summary: Did we enjoy small ship cruising? Absolutely - we=b9ll do it again. Was it worth the premium price? Not sure. The crew was amazing, especially Beth, the lead naturalist/=b2cruise director=b2, Kitta, our bartender (knew all of our names by the second day), Mark, another naturalist, our Captain Joel, the stewards - all great. Rooms were all made up in the 45 minutes or so we were all eating breakfast. Turn-down service during dinner - complete with pillow mints. No towel animals, however. Food was disappointing with a few exceptions. One night we had a buffet dinner with chicken, ribs and Dungeness CRABS - all you can eat! These were amazing! You on those big ships, you can keep your lobster night (lobsters aren=b9t even trapped in Alaska). I=b9ll take the crabs. Yummmmm. Fresh cookies daily were a treat. But, the galley needed help. Everything else was the worst I=b9ve had on a ship (including Carnival!!!!) At the end of the cruise, we all signed an address exchange sheet which we all got copies of, along with a little newsletter recapping the trip. That was nice. If the boat had been full to capacity, it would have been miserably crowded. Fortunately, with only 55 passengers, we had enough room to be comfortable. But, who=b9s to say that next time we book, it won=b9t be a full boat.There was one large group from Texas that kind of kept to themselves, a family of four (two really young kids - I love kids, but this cruise is completely inappropriate for them, as there is really nothing to keep them occupied - these kids were bored beyond belief, and understandably had some behavioural problems as a result) who pretty much kept to themselves (I don=b9t think anyone wanted to sit with them and their loud kids at meals), grandparents, son-in-law and two slightly older kids, who also kept to themselves (their choice). The rest of us got to know each other pretty well. Sitting with different people every night did get kind of old, though. Got tired of the =b3what=b9s your name, where are you from, what do you do=b2 thing. My first taste of =b3freestyle=b2 and I didn=b9t like it much. But with only 55 passengers, you kind of have to meet everyone - more like summer camp than a cruise. Suggested tipping was $15-20 per person per day. Could be paid in cash or added to your account. No credit cards were taken for on-board expenses until it was time to settle up, at the end of the cruise. Dress was totally beyond casual. You can=b9t be more casual. Jeans, flannels, sweats, fleece, sweaters were the uniform. One day, I wore a black sweater with my jeans, put on some blush and lipstick, and everyone commented on how =b3dressed up=b2 I was. Pretty funny. I love getting dressed up on big ships, but this was fun for a change. Smoking on board was almost non-existent. The outside aft section of deck three was the only approved smoking area on the boat, and that was used only by one fellow who enjoyed a pipe a couple of times a day. Other than that, no one smoked, which was great. Glacier Bay Cruises has alos, apparently, been hit by the Norwalk (Norfolk?) virus that had hit HAL so hard this summer. It seems the virus was running rampant throughout the state. We wer given an info sheet on the virus, and were asked to wash our hands often, and to use one of those hand sanitizers also (was supplied in our cabin). Two folks did become ill, and were quarantined for 24 hours, but it was inconclusive what it was they suffered from, as their symptoms did not match, entirely, the ones that the virus sufferers did experience. Alaska in General: We fell in love with this state. Everyone we met was polite, helpful, friendly, genuine. It was really refreshing. The air smelled so clean, so good, I couldn=b9t inhale enough into my lungs. They should bottle that stuff. Weather was as I was expecting - would have liked a few more days with at least a little sun, but I can=b9t complain - we saw =b3the mountain=b2 and we are lucky for that. We=b9re already thinking about our next trip tot he 49th state. This time, I think we=b9ll head to the Kenai and Kodiak Island, maybe do a Prince William Sound cruise (definitely on a small ship). We saw many big ships in the distance and parked next to us in port. But, we didn=b9t see any in the narrow, pristine passages we navigated - I don=b9t think the big ship passengers can even believe what they miss, being so far away. Having a captain literally stop the boat for 45 minutes, to watch whales=b9 flukes as they dive, resurface in 5 minutes, breath for a few minutes, lunge feed, sometimes breach, and dive again. Stuff that only happens on a small ship. Loved it. That about wraps it up. Probably way more info than you needed, but I=b9m a detail oriented person - can=b9t help myself. Hope you enjoyed my review. Thanks for reading. Let me know if you have any questions or comments. Thanks! Lee |
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Glacier Bay (Alaska) Cruise review
Wow, Lee! What a nice read after sitting outside on a hot day.
{moment of reflection} Wow! Thanks so much for sharing your experience. I'm forwarding this to My Big Guy -- he's talking about going to Alaska next year, and this may be the ticket. ==Annie by the Bay |
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Glacier Bay (Alaska) Cruise review
Annie Mooney Neves wrote in message ...
Wow, Lee! What a nice read after sitting outside on a hot day. {moment of reflection} Wow! Thanks so much for sharing your experience. I'm forwarding this to My Big Guy -- he's talking about going to Alaska next year, and this may be the ticket. ==Annie by the Bay Thanks for reading it. Hope the trip works out for you. Lee |
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