In October Ulus-Uluyayla

x0x In October Ulus-Uluyayla

By Akgün Akova

If we really want to find the steps of the deers, we have to go from
Ulus
to Uluyayla, to the mountains.

Anyone who sets out with the urge to discover, knows well that one
encounters new aspects of nature when leaving the main road behind and
taking to the side roads. The Bartin-Safranbolu road, where the
branches
of trees unite overhead to form yellow tunnels, offers such an
opportunity. Firstly you should turn at the signpost for Ulus when you
reach Abdipasa, 25 kilometres after leaving behind the greenish-brown
waters of the Bartin river. After another 11 kilometres, when you
reach
the village of the Boz Ulus Turkmens, who migrated here centuries ago,
you
should search for footprints of deer in the garden of Hasandede
mosque,
which is full of leaves blown by the wind. If you are curious about
the
presence of deer?s footprints in a mosque garden, let us explain: this
building, which is the oldest mosque of the village, was built by
Hasan
Dede, who was rumoured to have come from Horasan.

At first, the village people watched this stranger, who was building a
mosque on his own, in astonishment. But one night they saw deer
helping
him to fetch timber; this made them understand their mistake and then
they
helped him finish the mosque. We do not know the truth of these
legends,
but we know that if we really want to find the footprints of deer, we
have
to go from Ulus to Uluyayla: to the mountains where autumn dwells.
Along
the 33 kilometre road stand many different trees, such as oak, spruce,
pine and beech. In the 18th century Ibrahim Efendi from Ulus wrote in
his
Atlas ?The forests of Uluyayla and Gökbeli are enough not only for the
Ottoman Empire but for the whole world?; a statement that you can
appreciate when you see the forests for yourself. Then you remember
the
mistreatment by human beings of nature, while you refresh yourself,
inhaling the fragrance of the trees. After the gradual dispersal of
the
fog that covered the forest in the morning hours, a blazon of colour
follows. An autumn song enters your mind, accompanying the dance of
the
filtered colours.

When looking at the paprika spread out to dry on the verandas of the
wooden houses, you are greeted and offered tea. If you refuse
politely,
ayran replaces the tea offer. If you accept the invitation, you find
yourself at a breakfast table that smells of village bread.

On your departure they fill your pockets with medlars, called töngel
in
this region.

The people of Ulus show their hospitality to unexpected guests with
their
courtesy. Here you may come across children turning somersaults while
crossing the wooden bridge, elderly people chopping wood with axes, or
brides carrying hewn wood in barrows. You feel the chill of autumn
descend
as you continue on your way. In this season, you will not be able to
see
girls preparing yayik ayran on the balconies of their plateau houses
called sayvan, nor will you see the people who come to pray at the
tomb
located in the mouth of a cave, nor people pasturing their flocks,
women
spinning wool, or migratory birds. The grass of Izbit is no longer
green.
The road to Uluyayla is left for the hunters and foresters.

But we should not forget the abundant mushrooms growing in the area
during
this season. Those who collect kanlica and çapaç mushrooms and load
them
into their baskets, sell them immediately in the markets of Bartin,
Karabük and Zonguldak. In the autumn, swallows migrate from Uluyayla,
which is at an altitude of 1,200 metres. However, Swallow Cave waits
for
the winter, with its dark mouth. To explore this cave of 400 metres
length, boots alone are not sufficient, you also need a boat.

In order not to get lost in Uluyayla, we advise you to get information
in
advance from the local governor?s office or the forest authority. The
road
might take one and a half hours in normal conditions; however it
becomes
difficult when it rains. Actually, it would be better to go with a
four-wheel drive vehicle. If you have any trouble on the plateau, you
may
call on the forest unit located 4 kilometres away in Kalkanli. If you
want
to camp, bring your tent with you. For those who enjoy walking there
are
countless suitable paths in Ulus.

I mentioned above that the Uluyayla road is left to hunters, foresters
and
mushroom gatherers in autumn, but there is one thing I forgot to
mention:
photographers. The trees standing behind the fields, looking as if
they
had been dipped in shiny gold, foxes slinking away to hibernate for
the
winter, woodpeckers pecking for the last time, the steam rising from
the
teapots of villagers loading logs onto trucks, the vivid red of the
rosehips, all these are irresistible opportunities for the lens. The
geography of the western Black Sea region exhibits its most beautiful
colours as winter approaches. And autumn reigns over the forests of
Ulus
and Uluyayla.

Akgün Akova is a photographer and freelance writer